USA Travel Stories

Seattle in 24 Hours

by Rita Cook

What could be more fun than a trip to Seattle with thoughts of coffee, grunge, computer genius protégés and of course, the Seattle Seahawks. On a recent trip to this popular Pacific Northwest town however, I found there was a whole lot more, and yes you can do it in 24 hours. In fact, Seattle has a real charm and appeal and to me this bohemian city reminded me a bit of San Francisco. San Francisco or not, Seattle is an eclectic city with a vibe all its own. It all started when the city became popular in 1962 after hosting the World’s Fair. In fact, that’s where the Space Needle came from – all 605 feet of it. It was built to show the world “the city of the future” and it has made a permanent mark on the Seattle skyline ever since.

There is also a restaurant at the top of the Space Needle that rotates every hour providing awesome views of Puget Sound and the Cascade and Olympic Mountains. I was hungry so I ate there, but even if you’re not hungry just visit the observation deck at 520-feet with 360-degree views as well.

Seattle also has a good share of museums, theaters, parks and specialty amusements. Neighborhoods and historic districts are also quite popular, beginning with the well-known Underground Tour.

Take the 90-minute Underground Tour and experience a look back in time at Seattle. It is a historic, guided walking tour that takes the visitor beneath the city’s sidewalks of Pioneer Square and other historic districts.

As I traveled through subterranean passages I discovered what was, at one time, the actual roadways and first-floor storefronts of the old city. The great fire in 1889 destroyed Seattle’s downtown that was mostly made of wood and definitely changed the city’s architecture forever. The Underground Tour explains how it all happened with a humorous and irreverent look at the past.

Seattle’s museums range from music, to dolls to the more traditional natural history, fine art and flight themes.

Check out The Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture featuring artifacts from the Pacific Northwest including American totem poles, hand-carved cedar canoes, dinosaur skeletons and fossils.

The Experience Music Project has the entire city in a buzz and was the brainchild of Microsoft co-founder, Paul G. Allen. This museum is dedicated to exploring the creative and innovative American music scene including rock ‘n’ roll, jazz, soul, gospel and even hip-hop. It’s huge at 140,000 square feet and it has over 80,000 artifacts including the largest Jim Hendrix memorabilia collection around.

For those strictly into art, the Henry Art Gallery is a must-see for modern and contemporary works. Lesser known museums in Seattle include the Museum of Glass, Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame and the Seattle Asian Art Museum.

Since Puget sounds plays such a large role in Seattle’s geography it is no wonder that there are many water activities for the visitor. Argosy Cruises is Seattle’s largest water sightseeing tour operator and there are dinner and lunch excursions as well.

Seattle seaplanes will give you an excellent tour of the area from high-up or the “Ride the Ducks” tour will actually take you up close and personal to the water in a vintage DUKW vehicle straight out of World War II.

Many of Seattle’s neighborhoods are still intact from times gone by and to visit is to get an idea of what the city once offered. Pike Place Market is the oldest continuously-operated farmer’s market in the United States. It is also located in a nine-acre historic district in the heart of downtown.

Pioneer Square is another oldie, but goodie. Located on the southern fringe of the downtown business area, there are 20 square blocks of Victorian Romanesque buildings. It is also in this area where most of the museums, art galleries and restaurants come to life.

The Seattle Center is where the 1962 World’s Fair actually took place and now it is a 74-acre park with museums, theatres and other attractions that constantly draw crowds. Make your way to the waterfront since it’s a treat to watch the ferry boats, luxury cruise liners and sightseeing tour boats all move around at once.

The aquarium is located at the waterfront too and a visit to the IMAX Omnidome Theater is a good chance to see “The Eruption of Mt. St. Helens.”

Wine tasting is really becoming a popular Seattle pastime with Bainbridge Islands Vineyards and Winery on the top of the list. It’s a small family run vineyard that is just a 35-minute ride across Puget Sound. There is also the Redhook Brewery or the Pyramid Brewery offering free tours and tastings.

By the way, while in town, make yourself at home at the W hotel (1112 Fourth Avenue), a hip spot in the heart of Seattle’s financial, retail and entertainment district attracting visitors and locals alike.

The 26-floor getaway also features the popular W Bar and The Living Room, a prime gathering spot for guests to meet and socialize and the last place I visited after a full day and a short night before heading to my next stop in the world of global meltdown.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Rita Cook, who makes her home in North Hollywood, California.

Photos courtesy of the Seattle Convention & Visitors Bureau:
1: The Space Needle dominates Seattle’s skyline
2: The Aquarium also offers the IMAX Theatre
3: The Public Market is a popular meeting place for locals and visitors

Desert Retreat Offers R’N’R Without All The Usual Spa Glitter

Story and Photos by John Geary

As we started up the trail, I glanced overhead and spied a pair of vultures circling above. “I wonder what they know that we don’t?” I thought to myself, as I instinctively took a sip from my water bottle. At the same time, I also thought, “Boy, I’m going to enjoy the post-hike pampering after this is over.”

This was my introduction to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, the only natural hot springs in the world that offers a combination of four different types of geothermal mineral waters: arsenic, iron, lithium and soda.

The first 10 minutes of our hike into the New Mexican desert were certainly the toughest. The mid-day heat blazed down upon us as we traversed the switchback trail taking us up to the top of a plateau at a 45-degree angle.

As it turned out, that initial ascent was the only really difficult portion of our walk to the site of a former Posi pueblo (or village); the vultures would have to look elsewhere for a meal, that day.

Guided by archaeologist Martha Yates, we spent the afternoon looking for rock art, the remnants of Native agricultural technology and sites of former buildings of the indigenous people who once called this place “home.”

Towards the end of the trip, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the Rio Ojo.

Of course, we also spent a bit of time dodging cacti spines and sweating. But that made the rest of our afternoon and evening all that more enjoyable.

Heading back down the switchback, I paused to enjoy the view and shoot some photos. Anticipating a reward for my exertions, I had a relaxing massage booked to help me unwind. Following supper, I planned to enjoy the spa’s naturally hot mineral pools to further reduce me to a mass of human Silly Putty.

It worked.

After a massage that seemed to finish all too quickly and a delicious supper, it was time to head for the mineral pools, to continue my melting process.

There is nothing quite so invigorating, yet at the same time totally relaxing, as taking the waters in a hot mineral pool at night, watching the desert stars come out to sprinkle the darkening skies with their twinkling brightness.

Situated near the banks of the Rio Ojo, an hour’s drive from both Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico, the Ojo Caliente resort is not exactly a chi-chi luxury spa; it’s more like an “Everyman’s spa”-but that’s part of its charm.

By and large, the management is quite happy to keep it that way. There aren’t any state-of-the art, high-end accommodations or massage rooms with electric powered “waterfalls” to create “a mood”.

The main building-built in 1916 in a “new mission revival style” adobe-houses the office, restaurant and some accommodations. It is even listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

So, if every latest trend and state-of-the-art innovation isn’t there, what grabbed my interest? Well …

I could choose between seven naturally fed, outdoor hot springs with four different types of hot mineral waters to soak in. For the completely uninhibited, there was even an area for bathing “au natural” (I’m uninhibited, but not that uninhibited …)

My choice of therapy treatments included regular massage, hot stone massage, the spa’s signature Milagro Relaxation Wrap, and mud treatments. (These treatments are all within the same ballpark, price wise, compared with similar treatments in B.C.’s Lower Mainland.)

The spa’s Artesian Restaurant provided some incredible meals.

In addition to hiking, the spa offered other activities, including yoga and several types of workshops, including a micaceous clay workshop, run by Jicarilla Apache descendant Felipe Ortega. He is a recognized authority in the field, and museums and private collectors covet his works.

My choice of accommodations ranged from rooms in the hotel, to cottages and even camping on the property. All lodging, with the exception of the RV and camping park options, allows access to mineral pools plus steam and sauna, a private tub and the spa’s signature wrap each day. (Tip: Make reservations for any treatments or private tubs prior to arriving.)

I slept in one of the rooms in the old hotel, but only after delaying my exit from the mineral pools as long as possible. Climbing out and heading back to my room for the night was the only down side to my day in the desert.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer John Geary who makes his home in Vancouver, on Canada’s West Coast.

About the photos:
1: Kicking back on the porch at Ojo Caliente after a hearty breakfast in the Artesian restaurant.

2: Gateway to relaxation: the entrance to the spa treatment rooms, nestled next to high
desert rock.

3: Relaxing in one of the hot mineral pools under desert skies.

If you go:
Phone number for reservations, lodging and spa treatments: 1-800-222-9162 or 505-583-2233. Website: www.ojocalientespa.com

Cow Camp in Central Florida

by Katherine McIntyre

When a cold front from the north turned our sunny beach into a windswept wasteland, my husband and I searched for things to do and places to see. With hiking in mind, we headed to Lake Kissimmee State Park in Central Florida. With fifteen miles of trails, in 6000 acres, it is an oasis for naturalists and a sanctuary for about fifty species of endangered animals. It is a glimpse of Florida the way it was before it was taken over by tourists.

Following Ranger Dan, a park guide, we found ourselves back in the year 1876, at a re-enactment of a frontier cow camp. It contained a primitive holding pen for the cows and a thatched roof hut for the hunter.

There, we met Mr. Chester, a rugged cowboy, crouched beside an open fire, pouring himself a cup of coffee. In the southern twang of old Florida, he said, “I throws in a few grounds of coffee and adds some water when I needs it, and change the pot about once a month.” As for the mosquitoes, I slaps them and cusses them.”

Jack his “catch dog”, a black and white mixture, is trained to hunt the “scrub cows”. These strange looking small, lean animals, with their long curling horns, are direct descendants of the Andalusian cows brought into Florida by Spanish settlers in the 16th century.

Abandoned when their owners left the territory, they multiplied and ran wild for three hundred years, in the vast prairies and deep forests that covered Florida. Mr. Chester, pointing to the cows says, “I sell them in the market in Ponderosa. I gets an ounce of Spanish gold for one cow. I like ‘em fat. I don’t want their bellies touching their backbone.”

The cow camp was then, this is now. We continued our trek with Ranger Dan, over rough paths, thick with pine needles.

With a broad sweep of his arm, he pointed out a peculiar natural phenomenon, open spaces shaded by heavy clumps of Spanish moss hanging in surreal patterns from the branches of ancient spreading oak trees “We call these places hammocks.” he told us,” its and old Indian word, means shade and comfort. The oaks have outlived the pine, but if there is a fire, the oaks burn and pines don’t. Fire in the forest is nature’s way of cleaning it up.”

The park and its trails are an escape into a varied landscape of sun dappled flatlands, wide open prairie, thick forests and sparkling water; a place to paddle a canoe, hike, camp or just relax. If you are lucky you may catch a glimpse of the shy white-tailed deer, a possum, an armadillo, an otter sliding into a river, or even the elusive bobcat. You are sure to hear the songs of birds and the chatter of the fox squirrel.

Captain Mack Road, right beside Lake Kissimmee State Park, led us to our next stop, a rustic marina on the banks of the Kissimmee River, in Tiger Creek Wilderness Preserve. The river is part of Central Florida’s vast water system of the 600 lakes, which form the headwaters of the Everglades. Powerboats, canoes and tour boats were moored at its old wood docks, which are nothing more that a few planks set on stilts.

There was a “Who has caught the biggest black bass tournament” taking place as we arrived. Fishermen were bringing in their days’ catch, huge black-mouthed bass, to be measured, weighed and then tossed back into the water, following the “catch and release rules of the tournament. But fishing was not on our minds today; we wanted to see what the local people call, “the way Florida used to be”.

Our choice was a trip on a tour boat through the shallow water system. In a group of twelve, we journeyed down Tiger Creek into a vast area of unspoiled wilderness. The boat was quiet; the water still as we glided by reedy, green banks touched by the colours of yellow water lilies, and pink alligator weed. This was the slow leisurely Florida of 100 years ago when there were only a few cattle ranches in the area and not much more.

Dave, out tour leader knows his birds. “Although, he admitted, “I couldn’t tell one from another until I started taking birders into the wetlands.” Suddenly he called “Take a look, there’s a snail kite, with a snail in its beak.”

This was a first sighting for one of our group and he happily added this rare bird to his life list. We spied stately cormorants, green backed herons, a crested cara cara, black ducks, osprey and a shy limpkin. “People come from all over the world to site just one of our birds. That’s a birder for you.”

The nearly extinct whooping crane winters in Tiger creek and summers in the Canadian Arctic. We did see one bald eagle perched on a dead tree, and another soaring to its nest a massive structure of branches and twigs that weighs over a ton.

This was our kind of trip, our kind of Florida, an outdoor adventure, in untouched open spaces. It was a complete change of pace and best of all there were more parks to explore and sights to see on another cold and windy day.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes Katherine McIntyre, a freelance travel writer who lives in Toronto, Canada.

Photos by Katherine McIntyre:
1: A Florida cowboy rounds up his herd.
2: Spanish moss hangs from the branches of ancient oak trees.
3: A nearly extinct whooping crane browses the local marshes.

If You Go:
Central Florida is 25 miles east of Tampa and 35 west of Orlando.

Lake Kissimmee State Park is near Lake Wales at the junction of US Hwy 27 and State Road 60, a left turn at Boy Scout Road, drive for 3 miles, a right turn at Camp Mack Road, then 5 miles to the entrance.

1428 Camp Mack Road, Lake Wales Florida 33853
There are 60 campsites, 30 have water and electrical connections
Reservations; Call 1 800 326 3681 or 1 863 696 1112
Cow camp is open Saturday, Sunday and Holidays
Fishing Licenses required.

All Aboard For Chattanooga

by Rita Cook

After being notably horrified as named one of America’s dirtiest cities, Chattanooga, Tenn. took a 180 degree turn and became one of the most pleasant little finds in the south. Indeed, Chattanooga has been a tourist destination for many years with the likes of Ruby Falls, Rock City and the Incline Railway. However, more recently Chattanooga has undergone a $120 million waterfront revitalization and with it visitors can now expect not only family fun, but also a romantic look at the past.

The name Chattanooga comes from the Creek Indian word for “Rock coming to a point.” Of course this refers to the main attraction in the city known as Lookout Mountain. However, nowadays Chattanooga is so much more.

In fact, to get a good first impression of Chattanooga’s revamp stop in first for a visit to the Bluff View Art District and stay right in the heart of it all at the Bluff View Inn (800-725-8338).

A tour of the art district will take you from towering Magnolia trees overlooking the Tennessee River to mansions built in the 1800s to pastry kitchens, coffee houses and even sculpture gardens with permanent and changing exhibits.

It wouldn’t be Chattanooga without stopping early on for some spelunking fun. In fact, a trip is not a trip to Chattanooga without a Ruby Falls visit.

Since 1929 this place has been attracting tourists deep within the underground caverns of Lookout Mountain. The final result is a magnificent 145-foot thundering waterfall that is worth the walk among the various types of formations and rimstone pools.

The waterfall is quite romantic too and yes, you can exchange your vows there. As for the name, “Ruby,” it was the name of the founder’s wife – Ruby Lambert.

Following a trip underground opt for the world’s steepest passenger railway and “America’s Most Amazing Mile.” The Incline Railway is over 2000 feet above sea level and offers spectacular panoramic views of the valley below.

The grade of the track is 72.7% near the top and is not for the faint of heart. On a clear day you can see the Great Smoky Mountains 100 miles away and you can also come away with the knowledge that the Incline Railway is a national historic site.

My favorite spot in Chattanooga is Rock City Gardens on top of Lookout Mountain. Opened in 1932 the place was originally advertised on barns and birdhouses throughout the south and became quite the popular drive destination.

Featuring pathways through rock formations and gardens the final and most exciting experience however is the little gnome world called Fairyland Caverns and Mother Goose Village. As you walk inside Fairyland Caverns it is lit with ultraviolet black lights showcasing Mother Goose displays that delight children and adults alike.

There is a panoramic view of seven states (Alabama, Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia and, of course, Tennessee) and as they say “on a clear day you can see forever” while standing atop this historic mountain.

Of course, if you aren’t afraid of heights cross the swinging bridge as well and get a look at Lover’s Leap where, according to folklore a young Indian brave fell in love with a Cherokee maiden, but their tribes were engaged in a battle. The two lovers ran off together, were caught and instead of being apart jumped from the tip of what is now called Lover’s Leap.

With Chattanooga’s revitalization many new and exciting attractions have been added. One of the most exciting and well visited is the Tennessee Aquarium. It is the world’s largest freshwater aquarium with saltwater adventures to be found as well.

See the coral reef’s 10-feet long sharks, barracudas and stingrays as they move gracefully through the water. And don’t miss the IMAX 3D theater housed at the aquarium as well.
Another exciting addition to the waterfront is the $19.5 million expansion of the Hunter Museum of American Art where you can stay all day enjoying the permanent and temporary exhibits, the outdoor sculpture garden and the café and gift shop.

No river experience would be complete without a little adventure on the actual river so don’t forget to try out the Southern Belle Riverboat for lunch, dinner or a sightseeing cruise. It’s also another chance to get a glimpse of Lookout Mountain and the city skyline from a different angle.

Chattanooga’s Waterfront also offers a wonderful public art display showcased along First Street between Market and Walnut Streets.

The Chickamauga-Chattanooga Military Park was the nation’s first military park named as such in 1890 and it is still one of the largest of its kind today.

Finally, no trip would be complete to such a naturally beautiful city without the chance to take part in renewing nature. The Chattanooga Nature Center offers a “Adopt a Red Wolf” program with an emphasis on survival planning for this and other endangered species in the area.

Since there are only 100 Red Wolves in the wild and a mere 200 in captivity the Red Wolf exhibit is a crucial step in survival for this majestic animal (for more information call 423-821-1160 ext. 103) and meet the wolves on your next trip to Chattanooga.

Aristotle said “In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.”

Whether he was talking about animals or plants, it is sure to see that Chattanooga has indeed made the land they call home marvelous and vital and ready for adventure.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Rita Cook who makes her home in North Hollywood, California.

Photos courtesy of Chattanooga Area CVB
1: The Incline Railways nears the summit.
2: Ruby Falls deep in the caverns under Lookout Mountain
3: On a clear day you can see seven States from the lookout point.

Olympic Peninsula Rainshadow

Story and photos by Glen Cowley

It’s called a rainshadow. A microclimate on the lee side of a mountain chain which receives less rainfall than its neighbours. Welcome to the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State where the seasons run long and mild. Only an annual average of 18 inches of rainfall water the Olympic Peninsula rainshadow despite the closeness of the coastal rainforest. Coupled with the mild weather of the Pacific Northwest this makes for an accessible Eden with favourable climes almost year round. Climes which allow relaxed touring when the passage of fewer footsteps reveals the land and its people in a less tourist-harried visage and affords the added benefits of lower accommodation rates.

The brooding Olympics provide a south and western backdrop while snow shrouded Mount Baker rises singularly to the east. To the north the long gray arm of Juan de Fuca Strait separates it from Vancouver Island. From Port Angeles to Whidbey Island this is a land where it is almost impossible to be without a vista.

Our journey began at Port Angeles where we disgorged from the Blackball Ferry Coho which has been making regular 90 minute runs from Victoria faithfully since 1959.

An unassuming city, where you can climb from sea level to 7,000 feet in a 40 minute drive, it is not given over to tourism. That said there is much to see and do in and around this working seaport town.

The 25 mile Discovery Trail begins here at the harbour and runs past the community pier, with its sea life exhibition, viewing tower and beach access, off along the shore before heading through forest , field and stream until it breaths its last at scenic Sequim Bay.

The well tended trail offers numerous access points for sectional hiking or for the ambitious biker to peddle to hearts content. Plans are to eventually extend it from Lake Ozette on the Pacific Coast to Port Townsend.

Even in the winter, when journeying into the mountains can be a major endeavor, there are easy hikes within minutes of Port Angeles which give you glimpses of majesty or the tranquility of a hidden rainforest waterfall at the end of a moss and fern fringed trail.

We set up for the week near the community of Sequim (pronounced Squim) with its own attractions and ideally situated for exploring the region. Nearby, the long arching tongue of Dungeness Spit, with its national wildlife refuge, affords panoramas of sea, mountain and beach and is well worth the 5.5 mile return hike from the parking lot.

Less than 50 scenic miles away is historic Port Townsend with its living heritage of Victorian parks, architecture and atmosphere.

Originally named in 1792 by Capt. George Vancouver for the Marquis de Townsend it did not officially become a community until 1851. It never reached its expected glory when the railroad terminal landed elsewhere but the legacy of its leavings are there for the viewing with a self guided walking/driving tour of its Victorian charm

Spending a full day in this living museum by the sea is most enjoyable. The two lower streets are filled with shops, restaurants and pubs housed in Victorian buildings and tempting you in as much to explore the buildings as for their offerings.

Upper town, which can be reached by a long stairway stretching from an ornate fountain, boasts an array of Victorian homes, many constructed by the community’s well-to-do who did not wish to be tainted by the sweating masses below.

Adjacent to the town is spectacular Fort Worden State Park with its weathering batteries hidden behind a deceptively pastoral forest. Its cliffs overlook a spreading point offering sandy beaches, camping and meandering coastal trails. Trails wind amongst the aging fortifications which began in 1902 and were part of a series of forts which protected access to Puget Sound. Plaques offer detailed information for the inquisitive.

Port Townsend is also the terminal for the 30 minute Whidbey Island ferry run. The Island stretches long and thin through Puget Sound and is linked by bridge to the Mainland in the north. No less than five state parks, all set upon the coasts compliment its community parks and add to the rural laid back atmosphere. Two, Fort Casey and Fort Ebey State Parks house remnants of the forts which formed part of the ring of fire threatening anyone who dared consider an attack through the sound.

The small towns of Coupeville and Langley lounge idyllically along the waterside each with their views of broad bays. Victorian age shops and homes though less imposing than Port Townsend more than compensate with small town charm.

We savoured a fine coffee at the Coupeville Coffeehouse perched over the bay watching waterfowl and listening to the relaxed chatter of locals also enjoying the atmosphere.
In both communities, gift shops, galleries, eateries and the trappings of tourism places hum in the summer and parking is a premium, but if you choose to visit in the off season, they can be enjoyed at leisure.

The easy pace, short distances and wealth of things to see and do makes this corner of Washington State a relaxing destination only made the more pleasant by its long seasons of favourable weather.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes Canadian freelance travel writer and author Glen Cowley, who makes his home in Chemainus, on Vancouver Island,B.C.

About the photos:
1: Dungeness Spit is a gallery for natural art thrust scenically into the heart of the Strait of Jan
de Fuca.
2: The legacy of the Victorian age abounds in old Port Townsend.
3: Stunning totems guard the entrance to the Jamestown centre where you can view and visit
carvers at their work.

Cruising Alaska’s Inside Passage by Ferry

The Bellingham to Alaska Ferry is Rich With Travel Experiences

Story and photos by Lies Ouwerkerk

Alaska, – “the great land” in Native American -, with its snow-capped mountain ranges and majestic, often inaccessible wilderness, had been on my travel wish list for quite some time. But the mere thought of an expensive cruise kept me from making any concrete plans. Until I learned about the affordable Alaska Marine Highway Ferry System, that is. Then I didn’t think twice, booked ferry and cabin for the stretch from Skagway (Alaska) to Bellingham (Washington) on the spur of the moment, and immediately started to figure out how to get there. In the end, I decided to fly to Whitehorse, Yukon, about a 2 hr. drive from Skagway.

Most people who join the bus ride between Whitehorse and Skagway hop halfway, in Fraser, on a tourist train to reach Skagway via the White Pass Railroad. But continuing the scenic drive as the only passenger left on the bus with an extremely knowledgeable driver as my private guide, proves to be an excellent – and much cheaper – alternative.

We arrive in Skagway, once a gold-diggers joint that gave access to the famous Klondike area, and presently a fixture of most Alaska cruise lines.

There are just a few hours left to savour a hearty clam chowder at the Skagway Fish Company, to wander along downtown’s restored houses which evoke the romantic ambience of a legendary past, and to get a taste of what many other tourists seem to be heading for: jewelry, ice cream, and gift shops.

My cabin on The Columbia is small but comfortable, with a bunk bed for 2 people, a chair, a sink, and an en-suite bathroom with shower.There is even an internet connection for those who happen to carry their laptop.

During the 3 days/ 4 nights ride, there is no need to stay in the confinements of my own little domain, however. There are several roomy lounges with comfortable chairs and windows all over the front and sides, for optimal views of the glorious scenery.

The side decks are sought after by photographers, sun worshippers, and smokers, and on the upper deck there is an opportunity to put up a tent if you are in the mood for a more “extreme” experience (bring duck tape to secure the lines!). A reasonably priced restaurant, a modest cafeteria, and a bar cater to the grumbling stomach or the thirsty throat.

There are also some organized programs on board. A maritime wildlife ranger gives talks on Alaska’s flora and fauna, and there are regular movie showings, announced in advance over the ferry’s intercom.

But gazing at the spectacular skies and sunsets, and the pure and peaceful landscapes of island-studded waters, snow-capped mountain peaks, seacoast glaciers, fjords, and spruce forests is also a fascinating pastime, so is trying to spot whales, sea lions, black bears and bald eagles.

These pursuits also serve as a perfect way to strike up impromptu conversations with other gazers and spotters, and to find out what inspired them to take this trip. Here are clearly birds of all feathers flocking together.

A retired couple from Iowa use their savings to make a long-dreamed adventure come true and they remain, armed with binoculars, all day glued to their very front seats. Locals from one remote island visit relatives on another, and a couple of European students are halfway on their trip around the world.

A group of jolly executives from South Carolina return from a month-long motorcycle trip from the most Southern tip of Florida to the farthest point in Alaska, and a Californian realtor seduced by a precious collector’s item on eBay had to pick up his treasure in Anchorage. Here, on the ferry, there are no human barriers: quips, chips, and tips are exchanged as if we are one big family.

Besides short stops in various local communities along the way, the ferry docks twice for an extended period of time in larger harbours, allowing passengers to leave the ship and explore the unknown settlements on shore.

One of them is Sitka, on day 2, where a domed church, artifacts of Russian settlers, and hand-carved totem poles are reminders of the town’s unique heritages.

The next day, in Ketchikan, also called “the King Salmon Capital of the World”, I accidentally fall into the hands of a bush plane company official, who claims to have just one ticket left on the next float plane for an hour-long birds-eye view of the absolutely grandiose Misty Fjords National Monument, situated in the panhandle of South East Alaska.

And what confirmed adventure traveller could really resist the opportunity of flying high above those stunning, remote, nearly vertical cliffs that separate the glacial valleys below, filled with mountain lakes, dense forests, and little islands, under a completely clear sky?

In the early morning of day 4, with the sun just rising above the pink horizon, we arrive in the harbour of Bellingham. After bidding farewell to the attentive crew and newly-made friends, the magic of absolute peace and formidable scenery slowly evaporates, as more mundane activities compete for our attention.

Passengers with vehicles have to return to the lower decks, and those without one rush off to catch the commuter trains at the little station nearby, heading either northbound to Vancouver, or southbound to Seattle.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Lies Ouwerkerk who lives in Montreal, Canada.

About the photos:
1: Camping on the upper deck of the Alaska Ferry.
2: Russian heritage in Sitka, Alaska.
3: Flying in a bush plane over The Misty Fjords, Alaska.

If you go:

The Alaska ferries accommodate foot passengers, dogs, cars, RVs, motorcycles, bicycles, and kayaks. Reservations are recommended. There are also ferry services further west into Alaska, reaching Valdez, Whittier, Homer, Kodiak, and Unalaska. One may leave a ferry in any of the ports en route, and resume the trip on the next available vessel. Special tours are also possible, ranging from a 2-day mini-escape to the Kenai Fjords, to a 14-day “Gems of Alaska” tour.

For all information regarding schedules, destinations, prices, and reservations: 1-800-382-9229/ 1-907-235-7099, reservations@akmhs.com, or www.akmhs.com

Sweetheart Sites of Seattle

By Jane Cassie

It’s that time of year again –when chocolate boxes are carved into hearts, roses brim from corner grocers, and cupid comes out of hiding. So, how are you going to celebrate the big day of romance? What love-struck surprise can you conjure up for your favorite valentine? What about heading to the emerald city of Seattle? Here are just a few sweetheart sites that this Pacific Northwest jewel has to offer.

A Treasure Trove for Two

Although Seattle’s downtown core is a mish mash of past and present, it all works together harmoniously. New-age high rises hover above Gold Rush landmarks, trendy boutiques snuggle between flagship department stores and government headquarters brush up to corporate conglomerates. There are countless cozy espresso bars where you can escape the drizzly weather, ethnic-varied restaurants to appease the most discerning palate and so much cultural diversity it’ll make your head spin. This destination that’s embraced by the glistening Puget Sound and backed by snow tipped peaks is so picturesque it’ll tug on any heart strings.

Make Some Music Together at Experience Music Project (EMP)

This massive Frank O. Gehry architectural wonder, vaguely shaped in the form of a monumental guitar, is jammed packed with opportunities to get both of your hearts thumping. You’ll be mesmerized by the psychedelic-like acoustics of Sky Church, where musical greats become giant size on the monster video screen, take a step back in time with Jimi Hendrix and his ‘Evolution of Sound,’ and unleash innate musical talents when performing that special song for the one you love. Plunk away on the keyboard, strum on a guitar or serenade each other with a golden oldie.

Charge up Your Imaginations
Instead of sounds, sci-fi may be more your thing. If so, you won’t have to stray too far. Right next door is the Science Fiction Museum, a mind boggling exhibit that’s devoted to thought-provoking ideas. There’s everything from literature and media to future visions for humanity. Their Hall of Fame pays homage to the creative practitioners –writers, artists, publishers and filmmakers and others who have given life to this imaginative world. On your journey you’ll come face to face with monsters, robots, and aliens –just to throw a little Halloween into this Valentine’s Day.

Take Your Love to a Higher Level
This futuristic-looking Space Needle has been Seattle’s well known icon since the World’s Fair in 1962. From its lofty six hundred foot (204 meters) high observatory your hearts will palpitate when checking out the stunning panorama that includes everything from the city’s bustling downtown hub to the pinnacle of Mt Rainer. Even when the clouds roll in, the ethereal effect will initiate some loving Valentine vibes. You can also share the vista while wining and dining by candlelight. This landmark’s SkyCity rotating restaurant dishes up culinary classics that match the 360 degree rotating view.

Or Go underground!
For a step back in time, stroll the cobblestone streets of Pioneer Square, where an iron pergola, Tlingit totem pole, and Romanesque brick buildings are remnants of Seattle’s past. Check out art galleries, cafés, antique shops –the eclectic area definitely encourages lots of hand-holding. And don’t forget to check out what also lies beneath the streets. Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour is a cheesy but entertaining guided tour of the hidden subterranean passages that were once the main roadways of downtown Seattle.

Plod Through Pike Place Market
Chocolates, flowers, jewelry, oh my! You’ll find every valentine favorite at this queen bee of farmer’s markets. But watch out for those flying fish! This venue has been a Seattle institution since 1907 and beneath open air tents, merchants, craftsman and farmers line up year round. Aside from the original Starbucks, you won’t find any chain stores here –and all is sold on a first come basis, so for the freshest and finest, get their early. You won’t be disappointed!

Go For Some Paired Pampering
Vida is one Seattle’s newer spas where you can bliss out together. All seventeen treatment rooms offer unrivalled delights that will satisfy any spa aficionado. From hot stones and body wraps to massages and facials their therapies are designed to relax, restore and regenerate. While lying side by side in one of these zen-like havens, you’ll most definitely zone out.

A Secluded Sanctuary – The Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle
This elite award winner occupies a prime location near the city’s core. Instead of being squeezed next to downtown high rises that brim from Seattle’s bustling vortex, you’ll be idyllically distanced from the percolating crowds. It’s just four blocks from the Pike and Pine Street shopping, six blocks from the Convention Center and the Space Needle, and minutes via streetcar from Lake Union’s enticing restaurants.

You may want to surprise your sweetie by booking the ‘Romance Package.’ A fresh bouquet, decadent chocolates and a bottle of bubbly will accompany your contemporary suite. Or better yet, go for the Sleepless in Seattle. With brunch in bed, a pair of PJs to share and free romantic in-room movies, you probably won’t get much shut eye!

IF YOU GO:
Where To Stay
Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle
2125 Terry Avenue, Seattle, WA 98121, USA
Phone 206-264-8111
Reservations: 877-324-4856
www.panpacific.com/Seattle/Overview.html

What to Do:
Vida Spa – www.vidawellness.com
Seattle visitor guide www.visitseattle.org/
Experience Music Project – www.empsfm.org/
Seattle Space Needle – www.spaceneedle.com/
Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour www.undergroundtour.com/
Pike Place Market: www.pikeplacemarket.org/frameset.asp?flash=true

About the Author:

Since 1996, Jane Cassie’s articles have appeared in over 3,000 newspapers and magazines. As well as co-owner of Travel Writers’ Tales www.travelwriterstales.com, she’s a member of SATW, TMAC and BCATW. www.janecassie.com

About The Photos:
1. EMP shaped like a monumental guitar
2. Dining in style at the space Needle’s SkyCity
3. To market, to market
4. Enjoying Pan Pacific’s room service

Escape into California Wine Country

Story and photos by Theresa Perenich

“Are you really cruising the wine country in California?” asked one of our Georgia friends. “Yes,” said my partner Phil. “We’re going on a three day Culture of the Vine cruise with Cruise West. The ship embarks from Redwood City, California, sails across San Francisco Bay and docks a few miles up the Napa River the next morning. We’ll use the ship as our base, touring various Napa and Sonoma Valley wineries for two days.”

Knowing only that Redwood City was in California, I checked the map and found it was 25 miles south of San Francisco. On our ship, The Spirit of Yorktown, we worked our way north to San Francisco Bay where the Golden Gate Bridge was our backdrop. After a safety meeting, we and 100 other wine loving passengers drank sparkling wine and ate appetizers as we left Redwood City.

Later that evening, our on board wine expert, Allan Bree, discussed “di-mystifying wine”, vineyard practices and winemaking techniques in Napa and Sonoma. The Roman classical poet Ovid said, “Time, motion and wine cause sleep.” Content with wine, dinner, and companionship, we strolled to our cabin anticipating the next day’s visit to the Napa Valley wineries. We slept well. By early the next morning, we had reached the Napa River and were greeted in the lounge with freshly baked cranberry scones and fruit. We were ready to visit Alpha Omega and Merryvale Wineries in the Napa Valley.

Settled in 1836, Napa Valley includes the towns of Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville and the city of Napa. The first commercial winery was established in St. Helena by Charles Krug in 1861. Inglenook launched its winery near Rutherford in 1879 and won a gold medal in the 1889 Paris World’s Fair. At the start of the 20th century, there were over 140 wineries in Napa Valley while now there are over 700.

The winemakers at Alpha Omega Winery source their grapes from vineyards in the Napa Valley. Its founders, Robin Baggett and Eric Sklar, envisioned a winery that would evoke the hospitality of the farming community. The winemaking team includes Jean Hoefliger, a Swiss-born winemaker and Michael Rolland, a renowned wine consultant who produces his own wines in Bordeaux. At the winery, south of St. Helena, we sampled Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet. Trying not to stagger, we re-boarded our bus for the next stop – lunch at the Napa Valley Campus of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) located at Greystone Cellars.

Built in 1888, Greystone is the largest stone winery in the world with 22 inch exterior walls of tufa (rough, thick, rock-like calcium carbonate deposit) stone. Christian Brothers made wine there from 1950 until 1989. The CIA has occupied Greystone Cellars since 1995.

Our lunch on the CIA’s Herb Terrace began with butternut squash soup, followed by grilled flank steak and ended with an apple tart piled with ice cream. Phil and I were ready for a nap, but another tasting was waiting for us at Merryvale, the first winery built in Napa following the repeal of prohibition in 1933. Merryvale, a family owned winery, produces 10,000 cases of wine annually. Its goal is to craft elegant, complex wines that reflect the fruit of Napa Valley’s vineyards, emphasizing quality over quantity. After tasting Merryvale’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay we strolled to the Cask Room where century-old 2000 gallon casks lined the stone walls, imparting a romantic setting to the room. Back on the Spirit of Yorktown, Allan’s evening program was devoted to “Reading Wine Labels.” We learned the “hows” of wine and the manner in which soil, climate, and grape variety give wines a distinctive personality. We were primed for the next day’s adventure in the Sonoma Valley.

A clear, sunny morning ideal for visiting the birthplace of the California wine industry, the Sonoma Valley greeted us. Called The Valley of the Moon by indigenous tribes who settled there, the 17 mile long valley nestles between the Sonoma Mountains on the west and the Mayacam Mountains on the east. On a tractor-pulled tram we toured the 85 acre Benziger Winery. Thirty of its 85 acres are devoted to gardens, riparian areas, wetlands, and wildlife sanctuaries.

The wine quality at Benziger is defined by its Farming for Flavors™ program challenging growers to use sound environmental techniques to cultivate grapes. Their organic method avoids using synthetic chemicals while the Biodynamic™ program incorporates the environment in and around the vineyard using crop rotation, natural composts and tillage for healthy soil. In Benziger’s tasting room, we sampled Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot wines returning to the ship for lunch. Our afternoon schedule included sampling sparkling wines at the Domaine Carneros Winery. Established in the late 1980’s by Claude Taittinger, the 195 acre winery uses only Carneros grapes, most of which come from their vineyard. Sitting on a hilltop overlooking the vineyards is the Domaine Carneros chateau, built in 1988 by the French Champagne house Taittinger. With its outdoor stairway, marble floors, light wood paneling, crystal chandelier and portrait of Madame Pompadour, the chateau reminds us of the elegance of an earlier time. In high spirits, we went back to the ship for a social hour followed by the Captain’s Dinner. After a gourmet meal featuring chicken Wellington, shrimp, and Napa and Sonoma wines, we returned to the lounge for port and a dessert extravaganza. Our adventures in Napa and Sonoma had come to an end. While we slept, our ship made its way back south across San Francisco Bay. The next morning we disembarked The Spirit of Yorktown in Redwood City, filled with memories of good wines, good food and good times.

Photos:

1. Merryvale Winery – Napa
2. Sparkling Wines at Caerneros
3. Sonoma-Benziger Winery
4. Napa-AlphaOmega

Scenic Santa Fe: An Enchanted City Any Time of Year

By Jane Cassie

Like an annoying metronome, the wipers slap in time to Michael Buble’s rendition of Come Fly With Me as they clear the fresh cache of snow from our windshield. “What’s with this?” I say to my husband who’s sitting next to me in the driver’s seat of our rented Chevy. “I thought we’d be escaping this white stuff.” Although not crooning like Buble, I had ironically suggested this very idea to him a few weeks earlier. “Let’s ditch BC’s wet west coast and take off for some higher and drier ground. Santa Fe would fit the bill.” I had heard that this New Mexico destination at 7,000 feet boasted 300 days of annual sunshine and only 14 inches of precipitation. What were the odds we’d be rained on, let alone see snow?

Fortunately, unlike our Vancouver home base, the temperature patterns in this high desert oasis change on a dime. By the time we check our map and highlight a few must-sees, the wall of cloud has dissipated giving way to glorious Santa Fe rays.

Like the weather, change is no stranger to this culture-loving capital. We saunter around the Railyard, a modern upbeat addition that fringes the city’s classic core, and browse through the cluster of galleries that lure the more contemporary crowd. The fifty-acre plot is anchored by SITE Santa Fe, a warehouse-style venue that represents internationally-renowned artists. A short walk away is the upscale Sanbusco Market, hosting twenty-five chi chi shops. And on Tuesdays and Saturdays anything home grown and organic can be picked up in the popular Farmer’s Market. At the heart of it all, and bridging the past to the present is a historical depot and the Railrunnner, a commuter train that whisks Santa Feans to Albuquerque in just over an hour.

Bordering this area is downtown Santa Fe. “It’s sure not your typical metropolis,” I comment, as we veer onto the main road of Paseo De Peralta. “There’s not a high rise or a neon sign in sight.” The low-slung, flat-roofed adobe buildings appear to be hewn from New Mexico’s landscape as they rise from the ochre soil like giant sleeping camels. The curvaceous shapes, housing hip galleries, trendy boutiques, and amazing museums are linked together by sliver-thin streets. Our drive circumvents the twenty-square disorderly blocks and offers us brief glimpses into the busy vortex. We’ve heard that the best way to explore the interior grid is to get out our walking shoes. And that’s exactly what we do.

Like most visiting newbies, we start at the heart of it all, the plaza; a meeting ground that predates to the early 1700’s when the Spanish conquistadors first arrived. Although the surroundings have certainly been upgraded since those early days, it’s still a popular place to celebrate, schmooze and sell. The activities fans out from a pyramidal-type obelisk that commemorates the city’s rich culture and history. Towering evergreens rim the square’s perimeter and in shady comfort benches provide reprieve, musicians entertain, and local vendors display their goods: turquoise beads, silver bangles, splashy jewelry.

Sales pitches continue along the adjacent breezeway of the Palace of the Governors, where a line-up of indigenous craftspeople hawk their treasures. I walk away with more than my suitcase will hold.

We check out the interior gems of this historical haunt as well. The palace, and oldest civic building in continuous use, was constructed in 1610. It houses an excellent installation that spans the history of the Southwest and Santa Fe -everything from the Spanish Colonial War to tales of the wild west when Billy the Kid and Kit Carson rode into town. Up until this past May, it had been so chock-a-block full that eighty percent of the collection had to be stored. Now, hugging up to this divine depository is the New Mexico History Museum, a premier showcase that displays these irreplaceable collectibles. It’s a timely debut, with Santa Fe’s 400th birthday bash coming this Labor Day.

Other museums line up cheek to cheek with savvy shops, ethnic restaurants and over two hundred eclectic galleries. It’s a cultural melting pot that’s full of intrigue. We browse through the airy Georgia O’Keeffe Gallery and gaze at over a hundred and forty of this master’s incredible works, then venture through the Museum of Fine Arts, a Pueblo-Revival jewel that was founded in 1917.

Stone sculptures, wooden carvings and metal masterpieces flank the tree-lined street of acclaimed Canyon Road, and after a short drive up Museum Hill we’re captivated by five more forums that would appease any factoid. The Museum of International Folk Art boasts the world’s largest collection of whimsical figurines and truly brings a small world to life, while the adjacent Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian totally immerses us with indigenous culture. A scenic plaza links the two together and provides an awesome vista lookout of the Sangre de Cristo peaks.

We’re blown away by the same visual overload later in the day from our private patio at Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa. This chic retreat that nestles into the lush flora of the Tesuque Valley is only ten minutes from Santa Fe’s bustling throngs, yet feels light-years from civilization. It’s for this very reason that the first bishop of Santa Fe, Jean-Baptiste Lamy, came here more than a century ago. A chapel and humble retreat, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, still remain on the property as a legacy to his past. Today, the four hundred and fifty fabulous acres provide sublime pleasures for any luxury loving traveler. Some come for the award-winning spa, others for a trail ride in the hills and all for the reprieve; exquisite lodging, fine dining, silver service. What more could you ask for?

“Did you know there are half a dozen ski resorts within close range?” my husband asks. “And I hear we’re in for snow tomorrow.” It’s hard to believe that this destination offers the best of both worlds. From windswept mesas to snowy trails, it truly is The Land Of Enchantment. I make a mental note to bring a pair of skis on my return visit.

Private Tour: High Road to Taos from Santa Fe – $190.00
from: Viator

Where to stay:
Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa
1297 Bishops Lodge Road
Tel: (505) 983 6377
Toll free: (800) 419 0492
http://www.bishopslodge.com/

What to do:

Santa Fe Tourism http://www.santafe.org/
New Mexico Tourism http://www.newmexico.org/

Avoid the Crowds at the Un-Yosemite, Lassen Volcanic National Park

by Joan Fitting Scott

In 2004, some 3.2 million visitors made the pilgrimage to the 1,200 square miles of stunning, protected wilderness that is Yosemite National Park, high in California’s central Sierra Nevada range. Contrast this to about 380,000 recreation visits the same year to Lassen Volcanic National Park, another of California’s truly majestic alpine sites, and you might head in a different direction for your next California mountain vacation.
We did.

Snow arrives early at Lassen, which is tucked into the far northeast corner of the state. And it stays late.

While snowshoe programs are available to the public from early January through mid-March, the park operates with full services just three glorious summer months—as opposed to Yosemite, which has year-round full service. That and its relatively remote location account for Lassen’s status as one of America’s less crowded national parks.

Located near Mineral, California, population 90, at the southern end of the Cascade Range, the park is situated at the juncture of those mountains, the Great Basin desert to the east and the Sierra Nevada range to the south.

Lassen preserves 106,372 acres of lakes, forests, and amazing geological and hydrothermal phenomena. All four types of volcanoes found in the world are represented here, as are over 700 species of flowering plants and 250 vertebrates.

During our visit my family and I soaked up the exquisite scenery and ogled things that boiled, gurgled, hissed and steamed—they have names like Devastated Area and Devil’s Kitchen. One of the park’s evocative names graces Bumpass Hell.

We hiked five wildflower-filled miles round trip to this, the park’s main geothermal area, named for a mountain man who fell into a thermal pool, burning his leg so badly it had to be amputated.

We arrived to the rotten-eggs smell of hydrogen sulfide. Walking across catwalks designed to protect us from the heat of this natural cauldron, we gazed down at boiling mud pots and superheated steam vents. Their colors astounded us—ochre, aqua and every shade of gray.

Next we scaled the heights, climbing 10,457 foot-tall Lassen Peak. Our trek took us two and a half miles and 2,000 feet up to an extravagant view of the Warner Valley and Lake Almanor below. We hiked up and back in about three and a half hours. Perhaps 30 to 50 people climb the slope on a summer day—far fewer than at nearby Mt. Shasta.

Both of the park’s pasts—the ancient one and the more modern one—tell a gripping story. Picture-perfect lakes and the seemingly serene mountain from which the park takes its name belie fiery beginnings 600,000 years ago.

At that time, the clash of continental plates led to savage eruptions and the formation of Mt. Tehama, some 11,500 feet tall and 11 miles across. Lassen Peak began as a vent on Mount Tehama’s flank. While Tehama eventually collapsed, Lassen Peak remained.

Fast forward to the nineteenth century and along come some mighty interesting characters. California’s 1848 gold stampede ushered in some of the area’s first settlers.

One of them was the man for whom the park is named, Peter Lassen. A Danish immigrant, he arrived here by mistake. Old Pete found the area that is now the park after getting lost while guiding a group of emigrants; their trail is still visible in places.

Of course, the Indians had always called this spot home. For the Maidu, Yana, Yahi and Atsugewi, the area served as a meeting point. They camped here in warmer months, but left when the snows came.

One of their descendents, the now-famous Ishi, turned up in Oroville, California in 1911. A member of the Yahi tribe, thought to be extinct, he is considered to be the last Stone Age survivor in America. Ishi, whose name perhaps signified “man” in his native language, ended his days as an ethnological resource at the Anthropology Museum of the University of California.

Lassen’s elevations range from 5,000 to better than 10,000 feet, so its habitats are many. One hundred and fifty miles of trails (including 17 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail) and a scenic highway uncluttered by carloads of nature lovers allowed us see them. It took us about three hours to drive through the park; that included stops to take in its amazing scenery.

If you choose the quiet beauty of Lassen next summer over more hectic spots, you’ll need the better part of two days to hike the park.

There are several camp sites available for overnight stays. The campgrounds at Manzanita Lake make a good place to stop for the night; here you’ll find a boat launch, fishing, and swimming.

If you prefer not to camp, lodging near the park is rustic, but not without charm. Accommodations can be found in nearby, nearly empty Mineral at Lassen Mineral Lodge. Rooms are inexpensive and spartan, but located in a stand of fragrant evergreens. Dinner is served either inside or al fresco.

Thirty miles away is the town of Chester and neighboring Lake Almanor; both offer a range of accommodations and restaurants.

Lassen Peak is what geologists call an active dormant volcano, and could blow at any moment.

The last time it let loose was as recently as 1914. Then it sent a cloud of debris some seven miles upward—thus the names conjuring up images of devilish destruction. Seismologists promise to let us know ahead of time should the mountain be ready to vent again.

Some say that might be soon. Make your plans now.

About the author:

Joan Fitting Scott is a freelance author and travel writer who lives in Forth Worth, Texas.

About the photos:
1: Viewing a giant crater at Lassen National Park. Walter Zischke photo.
2: Catwalks allow visitors to cross steaming hydrothermal pools. Joan Fitting Scott photo.
3: One of the super-heated vents. Joan Fitting Scott photo.

If you go:
For help planning your trip, visit www.nps.gov/lavo, or call (530) 595-4444.