USA Travel Stories

All Aboard For Chattanooga

by Rita Cook

After being notably horrified as named one of America’s dirtiest cities, Chattanooga, Tenn. took a 180 degree turn and became one of the most pleasant little finds in the south. Indeed, Chattanooga has been a tourist destination for many years with the likes of Ruby Falls, Rock City and the Incline Railway. However, more recently Chattanooga has undergone a $120 million waterfront revitalization and with it visitors can now expect not only family fun, but also a romantic look at the past.

The name Chattanooga comes from the Creek Indian word for “Rock coming to a point.” Of course this refers to the main attraction in the city known as Lookout Mountain. However, nowadays Chattanooga is so much more.

In fact, to get a good first impression of Chattanooga’s revamp stop in first for a visit to the Bluff View Art District and stay right in the heart of it all at the Bluff View Inn (800-725-8338).

A tour of the art district will take you from towering Magnolia trees overlooking the Tennessee River to mansions built in the 1800s to pastry kitchens, coffee houses and even sculpture gardens with permanent and changing exhibits.

It wouldn’t be Chattanooga without stopping early on for some spelunking fun. In fact, a trip is not a trip to Chattanooga without a Ruby Falls visit.

Since 1929 this place has been attracting tourists deep within the underground caverns of Lookout Mountain. The final result is a magnificent 145-foot thundering waterfall that is worth the walk among the various types of formations and rimstone pools.

The waterfall is quite romantic too and yes, you can exchange your vows there. As for the name, “Ruby,” it was the name of the founder’s wife – Ruby Lambert.

Following a trip underground opt for the world’s steepest passenger railway and “America’s Most Amazing Mile.” The Incline Railway is over 2000 feet above sea level and offers spectacular panoramic views of the valley below.

The grade of the track is 72.7% near the top and is not for the faint of heart. On a clear day you can see the Great Smoky Mountains 100 miles away and you can also come away with the knowledge that the Incline Railway is a national historic site.

My favorite spot in Chattanooga is Rock City Gardens on top of Lookout Mountain. Opened in 1932 the place was originally advertised on barns and birdhouses throughout the south and became quite the popular drive destination.

Featuring pathways through rock formations and gardens the final and most exciting experience however is the little gnome world called Fairyland Caverns and Mother Goose Village. As you walk inside Fairyland Caverns it is lit with ultraviolet black lights showcasing Mother Goose displays that delight children and adults alike.

There is a panoramic view of seven states (Alabama, Georgia, Kentucky, North Carolina, South Carolina, Virginia and, of course, Tennessee) and as they say “on a clear day you can see forever” while standing atop this historic mountain.

Of course, if you aren’t afraid of heights cross the swinging bridge as well and get a look at Lover’s Leap where, according to folklore a young Indian brave fell in love with a Cherokee maiden, but their tribes were engaged in a battle. The two lovers ran off together, were caught and instead of being apart jumped from the tip of what is now called Lover’s Leap.

With Chattanooga’s revitalization many new and exciting attractions have been added. One of the most exciting and well visited is the Tennessee Aquarium. It is the world’s largest freshwater aquarium with saltwater adventures to be found as well.

See the coral reef’s 10-feet long sharks, barracudas and stingrays as they move gracefully through the water. And don’t miss the IMAX 3D theater housed at the aquarium as well.
Another exciting addition to the waterfront is the $19.5 million expansion of the Hunter Museum of American Art where you can stay all day enjoying the permanent and temporary exhibits, the outdoor sculpture garden and the café and gift shop.

No river experience would be complete without a little adventure on the actual river so don’t forget to try out the Southern Belle Riverboat for lunch, dinner or a sightseeing cruise. It’s also another chance to get a glimpse of Lookout Mountain and the city skyline from a different angle.

Chattanooga’s Waterfront also offers a wonderful public art display showcased along First Street between Market and Walnut Streets.

The Chickamauga-Chattanooga Military Park was the nation’s first military park named as such in 1890 and it is still one of the largest of its kind today.

Finally, no trip would be complete to such a naturally beautiful city without the chance to take part in renewing nature. The Chattanooga Nature Center offers a “Adopt a Red Wolf” program with an emphasis on survival planning for this and other endangered species in the area.

Since there are only 100 Red Wolves in the wild and a mere 200 in captivity the Red Wolf exhibit is a crucial step in survival for this majestic animal (for more information call 423-821-1160 ext. 103) and meet the wolves on your next trip to Chattanooga.

Aristotle said “In all things of nature there is something of the marvelous.”

Whether he was talking about animals or plants, it is sure to see that Chattanooga has indeed made the land they call home marvelous and vital and ready for adventure.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Rita Cook who makes her home in North Hollywood, California.

Photos courtesy of Chattanooga Area CVB
1: The Incline Railways nears the summit.
2: Ruby Falls deep in the caverns under Lookout Mountain
3: On a clear day you can see seven States from the lookout point.

Olympic Peninsula Rainshadow

Story and photos by Glen Cowley

It’s called a rainshadow. A microclimate on the lee side of a mountain chain which receives less rainfall than its neighbours. Welcome to the Olympic Peninsula in Washington State where the seasons run long and mild. Only an annual average of 18 inches of rainfall water the Olympic Peninsula rainshadow despite the closeness of the coastal rainforest. Coupled with the mild weather of the Pacific Northwest this makes for an accessible Eden with favourable climes almost year round. Climes which allow relaxed touring when the passage of fewer footsteps reveals the land and its people in a less tourist-harried visage and affords the added benefits of lower accommodation rates.

The brooding Olympics provide a south and western backdrop while snow shrouded Mount Baker rises singularly to the east. To the north the long gray arm of Juan de Fuca Strait separates it from Vancouver Island. From Port Angeles to Whidbey Island this is a land where it is almost impossible to be without a vista.

Our journey began at Port Angeles where we disgorged from the Blackball Ferry Coho which has been making regular 90 minute runs from Victoria faithfully since 1959.

An unassuming city, where you can climb from sea level to 7,000 feet in a 40 minute drive, it is not given over to tourism. That said there is much to see and do in and around this working seaport town.

The 25 mile Discovery Trail begins here at the harbour and runs past the community pier, with its sea life exhibition, viewing tower and beach access, off along the shore before heading through forest , field and stream until it breaths its last at scenic Sequim Bay.

The well tended trail offers numerous access points for sectional hiking or for the ambitious biker to peddle to hearts content. Plans are to eventually extend it from Lake Ozette on the Pacific Coast to Port Townsend.

Even in the winter, when journeying into the mountains can be a major endeavor, there are easy hikes within minutes of Port Angeles which give you glimpses of majesty or the tranquility of a hidden rainforest waterfall at the end of a moss and fern fringed trail.

We set up for the week near the community of Sequim (pronounced Squim) with its own attractions and ideally situated for exploring the region. Nearby, the long arching tongue of Dungeness Spit, with its national wildlife refuge, affords panoramas of sea, mountain and beach and is well worth the 5.5 mile return hike from the parking lot.

Less than 50 scenic miles away is historic Port Townsend with its living heritage of Victorian parks, architecture and atmosphere.

Originally named in 1792 by Capt. George Vancouver for the Marquis de Townsend it did not officially become a community until 1851. It never reached its expected glory when the railroad terminal landed elsewhere but the legacy of its leavings are there for the viewing with a self guided walking/driving tour of its Victorian charm

Spending a full day in this living museum by the sea is most enjoyable. The two lower streets are filled with shops, restaurants and pubs housed in Victorian buildings and tempting you in as much to explore the buildings as for their offerings.

Upper town, which can be reached by a long stairway stretching from an ornate fountain, boasts an array of Victorian homes, many constructed by the community’s well-to-do who did not wish to be tainted by the sweating masses below.

Adjacent to the town is spectacular Fort Worden State Park with its weathering batteries hidden behind a deceptively pastoral forest. Its cliffs overlook a spreading point offering sandy beaches, camping and meandering coastal trails. Trails wind amongst the aging fortifications which began in 1902 and were part of a series of forts which protected access to Puget Sound. Plaques offer detailed information for the inquisitive.

Port Townsend is also the terminal for the 30 minute Whidbey Island ferry run. The Island stretches long and thin through Puget Sound and is linked by bridge to the Mainland in the north. No less than five state parks, all set upon the coasts compliment its community parks and add to the rural laid back atmosphere. Two, Fort Casey and Fort Ebey State Parks house remnants of the forts which formed part of the ring of fire threatening anyone who dared consider an attack through the sound.

The small towns of Coupeville and Langley lounge idyllically along the waterside each with their views of broad bays. Victorian age shops and homes though less imposing than Port Townsend more than compensate with small town charm.

We savoured a fine coffee at the Coupeville Coffeehouse perched over the bay watching waterfowl and listening to the relaxed chatter of locals also enjoying the atmosphere.
In both communities, gift shops, galleries, eateries and the trappings of tourism places hum in the summer and parking is a premium, but if you choose to visit in the off season, they can be enjoyed at leisure.

The easy pace, short distances and wealth of things to see and do makes this corner of Washington State a relaxing destination only made the more pleasant by its long seasons of favourable weather.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes Canadian freelance travel writer and author Glen Cowley, who makes his home in Chemainus, on Vancouver Island,B.C.

About the photos:
1: Dungeness Spit is a gallery for natural art thrust scenically into the heart of the Strait of Jan
de Fuca.
2: The legacy of the Victorian age abounds in old Port Townsend.
3: Stunning totems guard the entrance to the Jamestown centre where you can view and visit
carvers at their work.

Cruising Alaska’s Inside Passage by Ferry

The Bellingham to Alaska Ferry is Rich With Travel Experiences

Story and photos by Lies Ouwerkerk

Alaska, – “the great land” in Native American -, with its snow-capped mountain ranges and majestic, often inaccessible wilderness, had been on my travel wish list for quite some time. But the mere thought of an expensive cruise kept me from making any concrete plans. Until I learned about the affordable Alaska Marine Highway Ferry System, that is. Then I didn’t think twice, booked ferry and cabin for the stretch from Skagway (Alaska) to Bellingham (Washington) on the spur of the moment, and immediately started to figure out how to get there. In the end, I decided to fly to Whitehorse, Yukon, about a 2 hr. drive from Skagway.

Most people who join the bus ride between Whitehorse and Skagway hop halfway, in Fraser, on a tourist train to reach Skagway via the White Pass Railroad. But continuing the scenic drive as the only passenger left on the bus with an extremely knowledgeable driver as my private guide, proves to be an excellent – and much cheaper – alternative.

We arrive in Skagway, once a gold-diggers joint that gave access to the famous Klondike area, and presently a fixture of most Alaska cruise lines.

There are just a few hours left to savour a hearty clam chowder at the Skagway Fish Company, to wander along downtown’s restored houses which evoke the romantic ambience of a legendary past, and to get a taste of what many other tourists seem to be heading for: jewelry, ice cream, and gift shops.

My cabin on The Columbia is small but comfortable, with a bunk bed for 2 people, a chair, a sink, and an en-suite bathroom with shower.There is even an internet connection for those who happen to carry their laptop.

During the 3 days/ 4 nights ride, there is no need to stay in the confinements of my own little domain, however. There are several roomy lounges with comfortable chairs and windows all over the front and sides, for optimal views of the glorious scenery.

The side decks are sought after by photographers, sun worshippers, and smokers, and on the upper deck there is an opportunity to put up a tent if you are in the mood for a more “extreme” experience (bring duck tape to secure the lines!). A reasonably priced restaurant, a modest cafeteria, and a bar cater to the grumbling stomach or the thirsty throat.

There are also some organized programs on board. A maritime wildlife ranger gives talks on Alaska’s flora and fauna, and there are regular movie showings, announced in advance over the ferry’s intercom.

But gazing at the spectacular skies and sunsets, and the pure and peaceful landscapes of island-studded waters, snow-capped mountain peaks, seacoast glaciers, fjords, and spruce forests is also a fascinating pastime, so is trying to spot whales, sea lions, black bears and bald eagles.

These pursuits also serve as a perfect way to strike up impromptu conversations with other gazers and spotters, and to find out what inspired them to take this trip. Here are clearly birds of all feathers flocking together.

A retired couple from Iowa use their savings to make a long-dreamed adventure come true and they remain, armed with binoculars, all day glued to their very front seats. Locals from one remote island visit relatives on another, and a couple of European students are halfway on their trip around the world.

A group of jolly executives from South Carolina return from a month-long motorcycle trip from the most Southern tip of Florida to the farthest point in Alaska, and a Californian realtor seduced by a precious collector’s item on eBay had to pick up his treasure in Anchorage. Here, on the ferry, there are no human barriers: quips, chips, and tips are exchanged as if we are one big family.

Besides short stops in various local communities along the way, the ferry docks twice for an extended period of time in larger harbours, allowing passengers to leave the ship and explore the unknown settlements on shore.

One of them is Sitka, on day 2, where a domed church, artifacts of Russian settlers, and hand-carved totem poles are reminders of the town’s unique heritages.

The next day, in Ketchikan, also called “the King Salmon Capital of the World”, I accidentally fall into the hands of a bush plane company official, who claims to have just one ticket left on the next float plane for an hour-long birds-eye view of the absolutely grandiose Misty Fjords National Monument, situated in the panhandle of South East Alaska.

And what confirmed adventure traveller could really resist the opportunity of flying high above those stunning, remote, nearly vertical cliffs that separate the glacial valleys below, filled with mountain lakes, dense forests, and little islands, under a completely clear sky?

In the early morning of day 4, with the sun just rising above the pink horizon, we arrive in the harbour of Bellingham. After bidding farewell to the attentive crew and newly-made friends, the magic of absolute peace and formidable scenery slowly evaporates, as more mundane activities compete for our attention.

Passengers with vehicles have to return to the lower decks, and those without one rush off to catch the commuter trains at the little station nearby, heading either northbound to Vancouver, or southbound to Seattle.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Lies Ouwerkerk who lives in Montreal, Canada.

About the photos:
1: Camping on the upper deck of the Alaska Ferry.
2: Russian heritage in Sitka, Alaska.
3: Flying in a bush plane over The Misty Fjords, Alaska.

If you go:

The Alaska ferries accommodate foot passengers, dogs, cars, RVs, motorcycles, bicycles, and kayaks. Reservations are recommended. There are also ferry services further west into Alaska, reaching Valdez, Whittier, Homer, Kodiak, and Unalaska. One may leave a ferry in any of the ports en route, and resume the trip on the next available vessel. Special tours are also possible, ranging from a 2-day mini-escape to the Kenai Fjords, to a 14-day “Gems of Alaska” tour.

For all information regarding schedules, destinations, prices, and reservations: 1-800-382-9229/ 1-907-235-7099, reservations@akmhs.com, or www.akmhs.com

Sweetheart Sites of Seattle

By Jane Cassie

It’s that time of year again –when chocolate boxes are carved into hearts, roses brim from corner grocers, and cupid comes out of hiding. So, how are you going to celebrate the big day of romance? What love-struck surprise can you conjure up for your favorite valentine? What about heading to the emerald city of Seattle? Here are just a few sweetheart sites that this Pacific Northwest jewel has to offer.

A Treasure Trove for Two

Although Seattle’s downtown core is a mish mash of past and present, it all works together harmoniously. New-age high rises hover above Gold Rush landmarks, trendy boutiques snuggle between flagship department stores and government headquarters brush up to corporate conglomerates. There are countless cozy espresso bars where you can escape the drizzly weather, ethnic-varied restaurants to appease the most discerning palate and so much cultural diversity it’ll make your head spin. This destination that’s embraced by the glistening Puget Sound and backed by snow tipped peaks is so picturesque it’ll tug on any heart strings.

Make Some Music Together at Experience Music Project (EMP)

This massive Frank O. Gehry architectural wonder, vaguely shaped in the form of a monumental guitar, is jammed packed with opportunities to get both of your hearts thumping. You’ll be mesmerized by the psychedelic-like acoustics of Sky Church, where musical greats become giant size on the monster video screen, take a step back in time with Jimi Hendrix and his ‘Evolution of Sound,’ and unleash innate musical talents when performing that special song for the one you love. Plunk away on the keyboard, strum on a guitar or serenade each other with a golden oldie.

Charge up Your Imaginations
Instead of sounds, sci-fi may be more your thing. If so, you won’t have to stray too far. Right next door is the Science Fiction Museum, a mind boggling exhibit that’s devoted to thought-provoking ideas. There’s everything from literature and media to future visions for humanity. Their Hall of Fame pays homage to the creative practitioners –writers, artists, publishers and filmmakers and others who have given life to this imaginative world. On your journey you’ll come face to face with monsters, robots, and aliens –just to throw a little Halloween into this Valentine’s Day.

Take Your Love to a Higher Level
This futuristic-looking Space Needle has been Seattle’s well known icon since the World’s Fair in 1962. From its lofty six hundred foot (204 meters) high observatory your hearts will palpitate when checking out the stunning panorama that includes everything from the city’s bustling downtown hub to the pinnacle of Mt Rainer. Even when the clouds roll in, the ethereal effect will initiate some loving Valentine vibes. You can also share the vista while wining and dining by candlelight. This landmark’s SkyCity rotating restaurant dishes up culinary classics that match the 360 degree rotating view.

Or Go underground!
For a step back in time, stroll the cobblestone streets of Pioneer Square, where an iron pergola, Tlingit totem pole, and Romanesque brick buildings are remnants of Seattle’s past. Check out art galleries, cafés, antique shops –the eclectic area definitely encourages lots of hand-holding. And don’t forget to check out what also lies beneath the streets. Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour is a cheesy but entertaining guided tour of the hidden subterranean passages that were once the main roadways of downtown Seattle.

Plod Through Pike Place Market
Chocolates, flowers, jewelry, oh my! You’ll find every valentine favorite at this queen bee of farmer’s markets. But watch out for those flying fish! This venue has been a Seattle institution since 1907 and beneath open air tents, merchants, craftsman and farmers line up year round. Aside from the original Starbucks, you won’t find any chain stores here –and all is sold on a first come basis, so for the freshest and finest, get their early. You won’t be disappointed!

Go For Some Paired Pampering
Vida is one Seattle’s newer spas where you can bliss out together. All seventeen treatment rooms offer unrivalled delights that will satisfy any spa aficionado. From hot stones and body wraps to massages and facials their therapies are designed to relax, restore and regenerate. While lying side by side in one of these zen-like havens, you’ll most definitely zone out.

A Secluded Sanctuary – The Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle
This elite award winner occupies a prime location near the city’s core. Instead of being squeezed next to downtown high rises that brim from Seattle’s bustling vortex, you’ll be idyllically distanced from the percolating crowds. It’s just four blocks from the Pike and Pine Street shopping, six blocks from the Convention Center and the Space Needle, and minutes via streetcar from Lake Union’s enticing restaurants.

You may want to surprise your sweetie by booking the ‘Romance Package.’ A fresh bouquet, decadent chocolates and a bottle of bubbly will accompany your contemporary suite. Or better yet, go for the Sleepless in Seattle. With brunch in bed, a pair of PJs to share and free romantic in-room movies, you probably won’t get much shut eye!

IF YOU GO:
Where To Stay
Pan Pacific Hotel Seattle
2125 Terry Avenue, Seattle, WA 98121, USA
Phone 206-264-8111
Reservations: 877-324-4856
www.panpacific.com/Seattle/Overview.html

What to Do:
Vida Spa – www.vidawellness.com
Seattle visitor guide www.visitseattle.org/
Experience Music Project – www.empsfm.org/
Seattle Space Needle – www.spaceneedle.com/
Bill Speidel’s Underground Tour www.undergroundtour.com/
Pike Place Market: www.pikeplacemarket.org/frameset.asp?flash=true

About the Author:

Since 1996, Jane Cassie’s articles have appeared in over 3,000 newspapers and magazines. As well as co-owner of Travel Writers’ Tales www.travelwriterstales.com, she’s a member of SATW, TMAC and BCATW. www.janecassie.com

About The Photos:
1. EMP shaped like a monumental guitar
2. Dining in style at the space Needle’s SkyCity
3. To market, to market
4. Enjoying Pan Pacific’s room service

Escape into California Wine Country

Story and photos by Theresa Perenich

“Are you really cruising the wine country in California?” asked one of our Georgia friends. “Yes,” said my partner Phil. “We’re going on a three day Culture of the Vine cruise with Cruise West. The ship embarks from Redwood City, California, sails across San Francisco Bay and docks a few miles up the Napa River the next morning. We’ll use the ship as our base, touring various Napa and Sonoma Valley wineries for two days.”

Knowing only that Redwood City was in California, I checked the map and found it was 25 miles south of San Francisco. On our ship, The Spirit of Yorktown, we worked our way north to San Francisco Bay where the Golden Gate Bridge was our backdrop. After a safety meeting, we and 100 other wine loving passengers drank sparkling wine and ate appetizers as we left Redwood City.

Later that evening, our on board wine expert, Allan Bree, discussed “di-mystifying wine”, vineyard practices and winemaking techniques in Napa and Sonoma. The Roman classical poet Ovid said, “Time, motion and wine cause sleep.” Content with wine, dinner, and companionship, we strolled to our cabin anticipating the next day’s visit to the Napa Valley wineries. We slept well. By early the next morning, we had reached the Napa River and were greeted in the lounge with freshly baked cranberry scones and fruit. We were ready to visit Alpha Omega and Merryvale Wineries in the Napa Valley.

Settled in 1836, Napa Valley includes the towns of Calistoga, St. Helena, Rutherford, Oakville, Yountville and the city of Napa. The first commercial winery was established in St. Helena by Charles Krug in 1861. Inglenook launched its winery near Rutherford in 1879 and won a gold medal in the 1889 Paris World’s Fair. At the start of the 20th century, there were over 140 wineries in Napa Valley while now there are over 700.

The winemakers at Alpha Omega Winery source their grapes from vineyards in the Napa Valley. Its founders, Robin Baggett and Eric Sklar, envisioned a winery that would evoke the hospitality of the farming community. The winemaking team includes Jean Hoefliger, a Swiss-born winemaker and Michael Rolland, a renowned wine consultant who produces his own wines in Bordeaux. At the winery, south of St. Helena, we sampled Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet. Trying not to stagger, we re-boarded our bus for the next stop – lunch at the Napa Valley Campus of the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) located at Greystone Cellars.

Built in 1888, Greystone is the largest stone winery in the world with 22 inch exterior walls of tufa (rough, thick, rock-like calcium carbonate deposit) stone. Christian Brothers made wine there from 1950 until 1989. The CIA has occupied Greystone Cellars since 1995.

Our lunch on the CIA’s Herb Terrace began with butternut squash soup, followed by grilled flank steak and ended with an apple tart piled with ice cream. Phil and I were ready for a nap, but another tasting was waiting for us at Merryvale, the first winery built in Napa following the repeal of prohibition in 1933. Merryvale, a family owned winery, produces 10,000 cases of wine annually. Its goal is to craft elegant, complex wines that reflect the fruit of Napa Valley’s vineyards, emphasizing quality over quantity. After tasting Merryvale’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay we strolled to the Cask Room where century-old 2000 gallon casks lined the stone walls, imparting a romantic setting to the room. Back on the Spirit of Yorktown, Allan’s evening program was devoted to “Reading Wine Labels.” We learned the “hows” of wine and the manner in which soil, climate, and grape variety give wines a distinctive personality. We were primed for the next day’s adventure in the Sonoma Valley.

A clear, sunny morning ideal for visiting the birthplace of the California wine industry, the Sonoma Valley greeted us. Called The Valley of the Moon by indigenous tribes who settled there, the 17 mile long valley nestles between the Sonoma Mountains on the west and the Mayacam Mountains on the east. On a tractor-pulled tram we toured the 85 acre Benziger Winery. Thirty of its 85 acres are devoted to gardens, riparian areas, wetlands, and wildlife sanctuaries.

The wine quality at Benziger is defined by its Farming for Flavors™ program challenging growers to use sound environmental techniques to cultivate grapes. Their organic method avoids using synthetic chemicals while the Biodynamic™ program incorporates the environment in and around the vineyard using crop rotation, natural composts and tillage for healthy soil. In Benziger’s tasting room, we sampled Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Merlot wines returning to the ship for lunch. Our afternoon schedule included sampling sparkling wines at the Domaine Carneros Winery. Established in the late 1980’s by Claude Taittinger, the 195 acre winery uses only Carneros grapes, most of which come from their vineyard. Sitting on a hilltop overlooking the vineyards is the Domaine Carneros chateau, built in 1988 by the French Champagne house Taittinger. With its outdoor stairway, marble floors, light wood paneling, crystal chandelier and portrait of Madame Pompadour, the chateau reminds us of the elegance of an earlier time. In high spirits, we went back to the ship for a social hour followed by the Captain’s Dinner. After a gourmet meal featuring chicken Wellington, shrimp, and Napa and Sonoma wines, we returned to the lounge for port and a dessert extravaganza. Our adventures in Napa and Sonoma had come to an end. While we slept, our ship made its way back south across San Francisco Bay. The next morning we disembarked The Spirit of Yorktown in Redwood City, filled with memories of good wines, good food and good times.

Photos:

1. Merryvale Winery – Napa
2. Sparkling Wines at Caerneros
3. Sonoma-Benziger Winery
4. Napa-AlphaOmega

Scenic Santa Fe: An Enchanted City Any Time of Year

By Jane Cassie

Like an annoying metronome, the wipers slap in time to Michael Buble’s rendition of Come Fly With Me as they clear the fresh cache of snow from our windshield. “What’s with this?” I say to my husband who’s sitting next to me in the driver’s seat of our rented Chevy. “I thought we’d be escaping this white stuff.” Although not crooning like Buble, I had ironically suggested this very idea to him a few weeks earlier. “Let’s ditch BC’s wet west coast and take off for some higher and drier ground. Santa Fe would fit the bill.” I had heard that this New Mexico destination at 7,000 feet boasted 300 days of annual sunshine and only 14 inches of precipitation. What were the odds we’d be rained on, let alone see snow?

Fortunately, unlike our Vancouver home base, the temperature patterns in this high desert oasis change on a dime. By the time we check our map and highlight a few must-sees, the wall of cloud has dissipated giving way to glorious Santa Fe rays.

Like the weather, change is no stranger to this culture-loving capital. We saunter around the Railyard, a modern upbeat addition that fringes the city’s classic core, and browse through the cluster of galleries that lure the more contemporary crowd. The fifty-acre plot is anchored by SITE Santa Fe, a warehouse-style venue that represents internationally-renowned artists. A short walk away is the upscale Sanbusco Market, hosting twenty-five chi chi shops. And on Tuesdays and Saturdays anything home grown and organic can be picked up in the popular Farmer’s Market. At the heart of it all, and bridging the past to the present is a historical depot and the Railrunnner, a commuter train that whisks Santa Feans to Albuquerque in just over an hour.

Bordering this area is downtown Santa Fe. “It’s sure not your typical metropolis,” I comment, as we veer onto the main road of Paseo De Peralta. “There’s not a high rise or a neon sign in sight.” The low-slung, flat-roofed adobe buildings appear to be hewn from New Mexico’s landscape as they rise from the ochre soil like giant sleeping camels. The curvaceous shapes, housing hip galleries, trendy boutiques, and amazing museums are linked together by sliver-thin streets. Our drive circumvents the twenty-square disorderly blocks and offers us brief glimpses into the busy vortex. We’ve heard that the best way to explore the interior grid is to get out our walking shoes. And that’s exactly what we do.

Like most visiting newbies, we start at the heart of it all, the plaza; a meeting ground that predates to the early 1700’s when the Spanish conquistadors first arrived. Although the surroundings have certainly been upgraded since those early days, it’s still a popular place to celebrate, schmooze and sell. The activities fans out from a pyramidal-type obelisk that commemorates the city’s rich culture and history. Towering evergreens rim the square’s perimeter and in shady comfort benches provide reprieve, musicians entertain, and local vendors display their goods: turquoise beads, silver bangles, splashy jewelry.

Sales pitches continue along the adjacent breezeway of the Palace of the Governors, where a line-up of indigenous craftspeople hawk their treasures. I walk away with more than my suitcase will hold.

We check out the interior gems of this historical haunt as well. The palace, and oldest civic building in continuous use, was constructed in 1610. It houses an excellent installation that spans the history of the Southwest and Santa Fe -everything from the Spanish Colonial War to tales of the wild west when Billy the Kid and Kit Carson rode into town. Up until this past May, it had been so chock-a-block full that eighty percent of the collection had to be stored. Now, hugging up to this divine depository is the New Mexico History Museum, a premier showcase that displays these irreplaceable collectibles. It’s a timely debut, with Santa Fe’s 400th birthday bash coming this Labor Day.

Other museums line up cheek to cheek with savvy shops, ethnic restaurants and over two hundred eclectic galleries. It’s a cultural melting pot that’s full of intrigue. We browse through the airy Georgia O’Keeffe Gallery and gaze at over a hundred and forty of this master’s incredible works, then venture through the Museum of Fine Arts, a Pueblo-Revival jewel that was founded in 1917.

Stone sculptures, wooden carvings and metal masterpieces flank the tree-lined street of acclaimed Canyon Road, and after a short drive up Museum Hill we’re captivated by five more forums that would appease any factoid. The Museum of International Folk Art boasts the world’s largest collection of whimsical figurines and truly brings a small world to life, while the adjacent Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian totally immerses us with indigenous culture. A scenic plaza links the two together and provides an awesome vista lookout of the Sangre de Cristo peaks.

We’re blown away by the same visual overload later in the day from our private patio at Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa. This chic retreat that nestles into the lush flora of the Tesuque Valley is only ten minutes from Santa Fe’s bustling throngs, yet feels light-years from civilization. It’s for this very reason that the first bishop of Santa Fe, Jean-Baptiste Lamy, came here more than a century ago. A chapel and humble retreat, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, still remain on the property as a legacy to his past. Today, the four hundred and fifty fabulous acres provide sublime pleasures for any luxury loving traveler. Some come for the award-winning spa, others for a trail ride in the hills and all for the reprieve; exquisite lodging, fine dining, silver service. What more could you ask for?

“Did you know there are half a dozen ski resorts within close range?” my husband asks. “And I hear we’re in for snow tomorrow.” It’s hard to believe that this destination offers the best of both worlds. From windswept mesas to snowy trails, it truly is The Land Of Enchantment. I make a mental note to bring a pair of skis on my return visit.

from: Viator

Where to stay:
Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa
1297 Bishops Lodge Road
Tel: (505) 983 6377
Toll free: (800) 419 0492
http://www.bishopslodge.com/

What to do:

Santa Fe Tourism http://www.santafe.org/
New Mexico Tourism http://www.newmexico.org/

Avoid the Crowds at the Un-Yosemite, Lassen Volcanic National Park

by Joan Fitting Scott

In 2004, some 3.2 million visitors made the pilgrimage to the 1,200 square miles of stunning, protected wilderness that is Yosemite National Park, high in California’s central Sierra Nevada range. Contrast this to about 380,000 recreation visits the same year to Lassen Volcanic National Park, another of California’s truly majestic alpine sites, and you might head in a different direction for your next California mountain vacation.
We did.

Snow arrives early at Lassen, which is tucked into the far northeast corner of the state. And it stays late.

While snowshoe programs are available to the public from early January through mid-March, the park operates with full services just three glorious summer months—as opposed to Yosemite, which has year-round full service. That and its relatively remote location account for Lassen’s status as one of America’s less crowded national parks.

Located near Mineral, California, population 90, at the southern end of the Cascade Range, the park is situated at the juncture of those mountains, the Great Basin desert to the east and the Sierra Nevada range to the south.

Lassen preserves 106,372 acres of lakes, forests, and amazing geological and hydrothermal phenomena. All four types of volcanoes found in the world are represented here, as are over 700 species of flowering plants and 250 vertebrates.

During our visit my family and I soaked up the exquisite scenery and ogled things that boiled, gurgled, hissed and steamed—they have names like Devastated Area and Devil’s Kitchen. One of the park’s evocative names graces Bumpass Hell.

We hiked five wildflower-filled miles round trip to this, the park’s main geothermal area, named for a mountain man who fell into a thermal pool, burning his leg so badly it had to be amputated.

We arrived to the rotten-eggs smell of hydrogen sulfide. Walking across catwalks designed to protect us from the heat of this natural cauldron, we gazed down at boiling mud pots and superheated steam vents. Their colors astounded us—ochre, aqua and every shade of gray.

Next we scaled the heights, climbing 10,457 foot-tall Lassen Peak. Our trek took us two and a half miles and 2,000 feet up to an extravagant view of the Warner Valley and Lake Almanor below. We hiked up and back in about three and a half hours. Perhaps 30 to 50 people climb the slope on a summer day—far fewer than at nearby Mt. Shasta.

Both of the park’s pasts—the ancient one and the more modern one—tell a gripping story. Picture-perfect lakes and the seemingly serene mountain from which the park takes its name belie fiery beginnings 600,000 years ago.

At that time, the clash of continental plates led to savage eruptions and the formation of Mt. Tehama, some 11,500 feet tall and 11 miles across. Lassen Peak began as a vent on Mount Tehama’s flank. While Tehama eventually collapsed, Lassen Peak remained.

Fast forward to the nineteenth century and along come some mighty interesting characters. California’s 1848 gold stampede ushered in some of the area’s first settlers.

One of them was the man for whom the park is named, Peter Lassen. A Danish immigrant, he arrived here by mistake. Old Pete found the area that is now the park after getting lost while guiding a group of emigrants; their trail is still visible in places.

Of course, the Indians had always called this spot home. For the Maidu, Yana, Yahi and Atsugewi, the area served as a meeting point. They camped here in warmer months, but left when the snows came.

One of their descendents, the now-famous Ishi, turned up in Oroville, California in 1911. A member of the Yahi tribe, thought to be extinct, he is considered to be the last Stone Age survivor in America. Ishi, whose name perhaps signified “man” in his native language, ended his days as an ethnological resource at the Anthropology Museum of the University of California.

Lassen’s elevations range from 5,000 to better than 10,000 feet, so its habitats are many. One hundred and fifty miles of trails (including 17 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail) and a scenic highway uncluttered by carloads of nature lovers allowed us see them. It took us about three hours to drive through the park; that included stops to take in its amazing scenery.

If you choose the quiet beauty of Lassen next summer over more hectic spots, you’ll need the better part of two days to hike the park.

There are several camp sites available for overnight stays. The campgrounds at Manzanita Lake make a good place to stop for the night; here you’ll find a boat launch, fishing, and swimming.

If you prefer not to camp, lodging near the park is rustic, but not without charm. Accommodations can be found in nearby, nearly empty Mineral at Lassen Mineral Lodge. Rooms are inexpensive and spartan, but located in a stand of fragrant evergreens. Dinner is served either inside or al fresco.

Thirty miles away is the town of Chester and neighboring Lake Almanor; both offer a range of accommodations and restaurants.

Lassen Peak is what geologists call an active dormant volcano, and could blow at any moment.

The last time it let loose was as recently as 1914. Then it sent a cloud of debris some seven miles upward—thus the names conjuring up images of devilish destruction. Seismologists promise to let us know ahead of time should the mountain be ready to vent again.

Some say that might be soon. Make your plans now.

About the author:

Joan Fitting Scott is a freelance author and travel writer who lives in Forth Worth, Texas.

About the photos:
1: Viewing a giant crater at Lassen National Park. Walter Zischke photo.
2: Catwalks allow visitors to cross steaming hydrothermal pools. Joan Fitting Scott photo.
3: One of the super-heated vents. Joan Fitting Scott photo.

If you go:
For help planning your trip, visit www.nps.gov/lavo, or call (530) 595-4444.

No Pot Of Gold At The End Of The Klondyke Trail

Story and photos by Margaret Deefholts

Ah, but a man’s reach should exceed his grasp, or what’s a heaven for?
– Robert Browning

Just beyond the cruise ship dock in Skagway, Alaska, I look at a display of photographs taken just over a century ago. One of them is a shot of the harbour. The shoreline, seen through the cameraman’s lens, is a quagmire of mud. Horses, dogs, bundles of clothing, cooking utensils, camping gear and provisions lie strewn above the high-water mark. The year is 1897.

In my mind’s eye, I see men, glaze-eyed with fatigue, wading through water from scows moored off shore and hauling equipment up the beach trying to beat the sixteen-foot high tides that could wash away their possessions—and dreams—in minutes.

They have travelled from San Francisco and Seattle, packed like cattle in tramp steamers, hungry for Yukon gold. Some are self-proclaimed gentleman adventurers on the road to El Dorado; others are ordinary citizens, bank clerks and blue-collar workers.

Most are desperados: stubble-chinned, brawling toughs who would give Skagway, with its bars, flop-houses and con-artists, the reputation of being the most lawless town in Alaska.

Of the 100,000 prospectors who arrived on these shores, only 40,000 would make it to Dawson City in the Yukon.

Some took the short but gruelling Chilkoot trail out of Dyea; others with equipment loaded on horses or dog-sleds, opted for the White Pass-Klondike trail winding for 40 miles through a wilderness of slush, shale and unyielding rock-face to Lake Bennett—and thence a further 500 miles up the Yukon River by boat.

Fast forward a century: our tour bus halts on the broad Klondike Highway and the group dismounts to gaze at the remnants of the White Pass trail only two feet wide in sections, and overgrown now by vegetation.

I am awed by the stampeders’ tenacity in the face of terrifying odds—and aghast at the sight of Dead Horse Gulch where 3,000 horses plunged down the 500-foot canyon to their deaths. The trail snakes past rushing streams and precipitous gullies; ice-age glaciers stand jagged-toothed against the sky, inscrutable witnesses to humanity’s quest for greed and glory.

On the return trip, our driver and guide, Brian, regales us with tales of Skagway’s colourful characters—confidence tricksters like Jefferson Randolph “Soapy” Smith and heroes like city engineer Frank Reid.

Jefferson “Soapy” Smith standing at bar in saloon in Skagway, Alaska. July 1898.

On July 8, 1898, Reid and Soapy came muzzle to muzzle in a melodramatic shoot-out. Soapy aged 37, was killed instantly; Reid died twelve days later of gunshot wounds. Reid has an elaborate memorial in the Skagway cemetery; Soapy was buried unceremoniously in an unmarked grave.

Today hardly anyone in Skagway remembers much about Reid. Soapy however has become a folk legend! Ballads are sung about his escapades, the local theatre puts on “The Days of ’98 Show with Soapy Smith”, and on July 8th every year the town hosts a ceremonial wake in his memory!

En-route back to Skagway, our tour bus pulls into Liarsville—a replica of a Klondike campsite.

Our hosts tell us that “Liarsville” derived its name from the pressmen who arrived here in pursuit of the hottest media scoop of the decade. Needless to say, after one horrified look, they vamoosed in a hurry.

However, to satisfy their editors (and the public panting for information), they filed reports that read like holiday brochures: trails winding through lush evergreen forests with picture-postcard mountain peaks in the background and a cruise through the sparkling waters of Lake Bennett and the Yukon River. “Typical yellow journalism!” says the speaker. “No different from today!” The crowd chuckles. I surreptitiously remove my press badge!

Liarsville is artfully reconstructed. There is a barber’s shop stocked with what looks like medieval instruments of torture, a laundry and dry goods store (read ‘gift shop’!) whose porch boasts a honky-tonk piano.

The stampeders paused here to bolster their spirits at the bar (literally and figuratively), and to linger in the company of ladies offering the delights of “negotiable affection”. They exchanged yarns of braggadocio, and stocked up on tobacco and provisions before hitting the relentless trail once more.

A vaudeville show is in progress. Cookies and mulled cider in hand, I chuckle at anecdotes, boo/hiss villainous characters, envy the lissom curves of “Klondike Kate” and thrill to the verses of Robert Service.

I also pan for gold, and go “aaaah!” as I find a teensy speck in my pan. Real gold, but, shhh…planted to ensure that all tourists leave with a fleck or two in their pockets!

Which is more than what the sourdoughs (miners) took home.

By the time they reached Dawson City, all the claims had been staked and the owners of the mines had already raked in their millions’ worth of gleaming nuggets. For some stampeders, however, the journey was accomplishment enough: an adventure of heroic proportions.

They were metaphorical Argonauts, in search of the Golden Fleece—and, ironically enough, ‘fleeced’ is what they were!

About the author:

Margaret Deefholts is a Canadian author, and much travelled freelance travel writer/photographer. Visit her website at www.margaretdeefholts.com

The photos:
1: House of Negotiable Affection on Skagway’s Broadway.
2: Broadway, Skagway’s main street.
3: Soapy Smith photo from U.S. Library of Congress
4: Author finds gold (“Aaaah!) in Liarsville.

South Florida is a Blend of Old and New

Story and photos by Robert Nebel

“A1A — I know I’m close to it,” our driver, Robert Roshkind, insisted as he navigated a residential neighborhood in Hollywood, Fla. Robert, who is both a relative of mine and a former New York City cab driver, was driving my wife, daughter and me back to our hotel from dinner at Hollywood’s Mama Mia’s Italian Ristorante. As he guided us through the back roads, we wondered if we’d actually find the A1A highway.

Finally, thanks to Hollywood’s grid system of streets — a blessing for map-challenged folks like me — we made it. And what an interesting time to be there. In Hollywood and its nearby communities in Florida’s Broward County, old and new Florida are competing, and it looks like the former is fading fast.

The 1950s and ’60s hotels are dwarfed by the rising luxury towers, which seem to be popping up by the minute. The changes make the purists who came here years ago long for the past. For the younger set, though, the changes are exciting.

Hot and trendy are the buzz words in Broward these days. Eating at places like Mama Mia’s, shopping at the upscale Melina’s on Hollywood Boulevard and checking out hotels such as the gargantuan Westin Diplomat are just parts of what could transform this section of A1A into the next South Beach.

The big difference: This version is more affordable at the moment.

The famous “Hollywood Broadwalk,” a boardwalk that runs along Hollywood’s beach, is undergoing a major overhaul. Hotels such as the Hollywood Beach Marriott are getting a facelift, too. What was once a typical South Florida Howard Johnson’s property has now become a thriving oceanfront getaway, complete with a spa and exquisite restaurant.

Diversity, character still abound

I couldn’t help but notice the diversity and character that co-exists with modern life here. I saw a group of senior citizens dancing to French music at a Hollywood Beach pavilion. My lunch companion a few days later told me a number of French people had settled here several years ago.

After watching the seniors dance, I stopped into a cute hole-in-the-wall joint called Angelo’s Pizza. I ate the best eggplant parmesian sandwich I’ve ever had and the friendly waitresses offered their opinions on just about everything.

There were times I was a bit sad for the older dining establishments in the area. I visited the Rascal House delicatessen on A1A, a classic haunt that was frequented by the likes of Jackie Gleason.

It’s now operating under the shadow of Donald Trump’s upcoming real estate tower project across the street. Evidence of its glory days are everywhere — photos of the stars of yesteryear are plastered on every wall. Despite the changing climate outside its doors, the Rascal House still serves up fantastic deli food that’s hard to find in most cities.

Water adventures are everywhere

Billy and Roseanne Sochin, who work for an outfitter called Adventure World, are living the high life.

Roseanne typically does the paperwork at the check-in hut near the Westin Diplomat, and Billy loves to hop on a kayak, Craigcat or jet ski and take customers out on the intracoastal waterway system of Hollywood and beyond.

On one recent morning, he put my 7-year-old daughter on a jet ski as my wife and I climbed aboard the Craigcat. We had a blast on the water, and Sochin did a remarkable job of informing us of the area’s ecology on his aquatic tour.

Sochin’s tour inspired us to learn more about Florida’s habitat at the International Game Fish Museum in nearby Dania Beach.

Aside from being the definitive hall of fame for fish, the museum is chock full of informative exhibits that emphasize the need to preserve nature so that these precious creatures can thrive. A fishing simulator and outdoor nature preserve, complete with alligators, make the International Game Fish Museum a worthwhile trip.

A children’s role-playing paradise in Sunrise

For us, no visit to Broward County would be complete without a trip to Wannado City. Located in an outlet mall in nearby Sunrise, this facility is a place where kids get to play grown-up for a day through career role-playing.

You can be a disc jockey, airline worker, firefighter, grocery clerk, television employee and more. My daughter loved learning how to be a dentist and journalist. For parents, it’s a dream — children get to learn to value of work while parents can either rest in a lounge or shop in the massive connected mall.

About the author:

Robert J. Nebel is an Atlanta-based freelance writer and video producer. His Web site is http://bobnebel.tripod.com

About the photos:
1. Hollywood Beach’s “Broadwalk” inspires visitors to stroll South Florida’s premier
beach.
2. The Rascal House deli, in typical Art Deco style, is still around after all these years.
3. At Wannado City kids get to “go to work for a day.”

More info:
Hollywood Beach Chamber of Commerce
www.visithollywood.org
International Game Fish Association Hall of Fame & Museum
www.igfa.org

Fun Facts:
Hollywood, Fla. has more than seven miles of white sand beaches.

Hollywood’s beaches are recognized as “Blue Wave” Beaches, awarded by the clean beaches council of Washington, D.C ., in recognition of environmentally friendly waters. (Source: Hollywood Beach Chamber of Commerce)

The downtown area of Hollywood features the Downtown Hollywood Art and Design District, which boasts eclectic boutiques and places to dance, see theater and more.

Source: Hollywood Beach Chamber of Commerce

Disneyland’s Anaheim: California’s Favorite Family Destination!

by Rick Millikan

Who could guess that a quiet agricultural community would change so radically?

German farmers settled around Anaheim in 1857, planting various crops. When a plague wiped out their wine grapes twenty-three years later, acres of orange trees replaced them. Locals were puzzled when Walt Disney wanted to transform a large successful orchard into an amusement park.

Yet Walt created a family-oriented theme park, realizing an ingenious dream. Disneyland opened with enormous fanfare in 1955. Very soon, Anaheim mushroomed into Southern California’s fun destination.

Whether sailing aloft to Peter Pan’s Neverland, taking Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride, zipping around Roger Rabbit’s Toon-Town, tripping into Alice’s Wonderland or drifting through dolled-up It’s a Small World, rides accommodate kids of all ages.

Seeking bigger thrills, families bobsled the Matterhorn, rocket through Space Mountain, rollick through the western frontier on Thunder Mountain Railroad and float serenely into Brer Bear’s Splash Mountain domain, ultimately plunging through a briar patch.

Amidst Disneyland’s 50th Anniversary celebrations, my wife and I return as empty nesters to enjoy its innovative adventures and playful activities.

Staying at the Grand Californian Hotel, we stroll the bustling shopping mall, cross Park Plaza to Disneyland’s Mainstreet and board a double-decker omnibus.

We soon re-explore a tomb with Indiana Jones, re-encounter swashbuckling Pirates of the Caribbean and re-experience a cryptic trip through the Haunted Mansion. Purchasing sarsaparillas at the Golden Horseshoe, we applaud, whistle and laugh as Billy Hill and the Hillbillies entertain with an array of bluegrass, classical, heavy metal, rap and rock.

Walt Disney once said, “Disneyland will never be completed. It will continue to grow as long as there is imagination left in the world.”

Growth is evident. Tarzan’s family has moved into the former Swiss Family Robinson Tree-House. Where Bear Country Jamboree once jammed, we journey into blustery fun with Pooh Bear and friends.

Dining in a New Orleans bistro, we behold the evening ‘Parade of Dreams’ down Main Street. Depicting Walt’s most dazzling animated features, protagonists smile, wave and cavort atop brilliant floats, while below, whimsical characters dance and strut their stuff.

Next morning we enter the newly adjacent California Adventure Park for ‘Soarin’ over California.’ Our bench wings upward into a gigantic wraparound Imax screen, banking and swooping over scenic wonders. Feeling the wind in our faces, we smell the blue Pacific’s salty air, sweet orange blossoms and aromatic pine forests.

Theatres line the Hollywood section. After guffawing at merry mayhem caused by Kermit and his beastly cast in a 3-D Muppet Movie, we explore a nearby edifice to animators.

Interactive screens allow me to develop an animated personality. Dubbing in voices for notable cartoon characters, I sing my own renditions of showy songs and growl villainous lines.

After watching lively street entertainers, we attend ‘Aladdin’ in a spacious theatre. This musical extravaganza features bejeweled elephants, camels, jovial blue genie and ‘authentic’ flying carpet. Hollywood Tower Hotel looms near. Chris bids farewell and I take the wildly erratic elevator trip into the eerie twilight zone.

Falling back to earth, we trek into the Sierras and ride the raging Grizzly Bear Rapids. Ratcheting upward to Wolf Rock, the exhilarating descent begins. Our raft twists and turns under icy waterfalls, through howling caverns and over boiling white rapids.

We forego Paradise Pier’s genre of loop-de-loop rides, including a humungous rollercoaster and Ferris wheel and meander through faux Monterey and San Francisco. There we see prize-winning ‘Golden Dreams’ featuring inspired vignettes of state history.

In nearby Bug’s Land, we literally feel the light-hearted earthy revenge from misunderstood insects in Flik’s multi-sensory flick ‘It’s Tough to be a Bug’.

On our last day, the futuristic Disneyland Hotel monorail whisks us straight into Tomorrow Land. Where once we encountered the giant squid on Captain Nemo’s Nautilus, stylish submarines will soon track down Nemo, that beloved, elusive fish.

Across from Star Tours’ ongoing battles with Darth Vader, Buzz Light Year recruits us as space cadets to fight evil Emperor Zurg. Chris pilots our madly whirling rocket while I fire wildly at vile villains, laser guns blazing from each hand; we ace our way to stellar promotions.

Its lobby overflowing with fascinating memorabilia, Mainstreet Opera House presents ‘Disneyland: The First 50 Years,’ a worthwhile visit. An early Magic Shop employee, Steve Martin hosts a five-decade tour of ‘his’ Magic Kingdom. Dazzled by Walt Disney’s imagination and foresight, we leave ‘the happiest place on Earth.’

Disneyland set the local entertainment industry in motion. The nearby Crystal Cathedral attracts the faithful and the curious to gaze upon its white lace-like trusses framing more than 10,000 windows of tempered, silver tinted glass.

From this soaring cathedral, Robert Schuller broadcasts the international ‘Hour of Power’, while in the neighboring stadium, the Angels play baseball and on Arrowhead Pond, Mighty Ducks shoot pucks.

Further amusement lies within a short distance. Once a roadside-stand selling fresh boysenberries and fruit pies, Knott’s Berry Farm evolved into a rip snortin’ frontier themed park.

As a teenager I rode its stagecoach, read tombstone inscriptions at Boot Hill, panned for gold, stumbled through its haunted shack and watched melodramas at Birdcage Theater.

Decades later, I led my family into new adventures. We’d travel back in time, conquer road rage in bumper cars, raft rivers and enjoy a myriad of wild western ways.

Crossing the highway, we’d enter Movieland Wax Museum, becoming nostalgic over star performers, favorite movies and television shows.

Some evenings, we’d return to a Medieval Castle. Wenches would serve sumptuous feasts while magicians conjured and mystified. And Andalusian knights demonstrated artful swordplay, jousting and falconry.

Now orange trees are rarely seen, but good times are easily found. Wearing smiles and mouse ears, we head homeward with fun-filled memories.

About the author:

Rick Millikan is a Canadian travel writer who makes his home near Vancouver B.C. on Canada’s West Coast.

Photos by Chris Millikan:>

Disneyland’s Adventure Park Plaza
Riding the Grizzly Rapids Raft
The author with Flik at California Park Bugland

If you go:

Disneyland – http://disneyland.disney.go.com Fiftieth Anniversary Celebrations continue until November 2006.
Anaheim Tourism- www.anaheimoc.org