by Habeeb Salloum
From Québec City’s magnificent castle-like Le Château Frontenac with its medieval stone towers, gables and copper turrets, we surveyed the St. Lawrence River. For a long time, we stood enjoying the enchanting view.
From our vantage point, in this symbol of the city, it was easy to dream of the past – the time when Samuel de Champlain, in1608, established the city, which was to become the cradle of French civilization in the Americas. For travellers, this most photographed hotel in the world is a fitting landmark for Canada’s oldest city.
Québec City, deriving its name from the Indian word, Kébec (meaning where the river narrows), was built atop a cliff, overlooking the St. Lawrence. A natural fortress, it became the capital of New France and fended off numerous attacks until occupied by the British in 1759.
After the battle on the Plains of Abraham, New France became a British colony until confederation in 1867 when it became a part of Canada.
Even though today Québec City metropolitan area has expanded to an urban centre of some 717,000, the walls of the original old city still stand, inside of which live about 5,000 people. This part of the city has become a much sought after mecca for the 1.2 million non-Canadian annual visitors, a good number of which are from the 80 cruise ships that annually stop in the city.
A historic treasure, Québec City, which in 2008 will celebrate its 400th anniversary, is an enchanting French monument planted in North America. A cultural hot spot, the city is the capital of the province of Québec and home of the National assembly, a busy port, and one of Canada’s most well-known tourist destinations.
Québec City’s charm comes from a combination of its architectural, cultural and historical elements. The mixture of French, English and modern styles of buildings gives the city a very catchy appeal.
This along with its setting make it one of the most picturesque towns in Canada. At the heart of Québec City’s charisma is the old walled town the only walled city in North America, drawing the majority of visitors.
After taking a horse-drawn carriage ride, or as it is known caleche ride, around the renovated 4.6 km (2.9 mi) walls that encircle the old part of town, visitors usually climb atop the ramparts to relish the maze of medieval-like narrow streets and the sloping roofs of buildings.
Down on the street it is pleasant just to walk along the alleyways inside the stonewalls and enjoy the French architecture from the bygone years.
In this walled compact area, a living history book of the town, are the most interesting sights in the city. The narrow cobblestone streets and quaint town squares – relics from the past, the venerable churches, including the first stone church built in North America in 1632, and turreted buildings give the area a distinct medieval European look.
There is plenty to see and do along these worn streets such as historic churches, hotels, forts and museums and, in between, boutiques, shops, galleries and cafes or bistros. The concentration of historic buildings in old Québec, some dating to the 1600s, is the reason that it was designated by UNESCO in 1985 as a World Heritage Site.
A small part of the old city known as Basse-Ville or Lower Town, next to the river, is the oldest quarter in the city, filled with impressive renovated old structures from the 1600s and 1700s. It was here where Samuel de Champlain founded New France in 1608. Basse-Ville lies outside the walls, between the base of the cliff and the river, and has a good number fine shops and restaurants. Stairways lead down to Basse-Ville from the bluff, but an easier way to go is the renovated funicular – a glass elevator sliding up and down a ramp that has been in use since 1879.
These two old areas contain the majority of the city’s interesting sights, but, beyond the walls of Vieux Québec, the modern sections that encompass parks, office buildings, shopping malls and modern homes also have their appeal.
There are 27 museums in these newer areas and in the old city. The most important of these is the Museum of Civilization in Basse-Ville which focuses on Québec’s provincial history, but has exhibits relating to other cultures from around the world;
The Museum of French America, noted for its stunning chapel. The Museum of Québec; an architectural master piece, is one of Québec’s most important museums, containing an extensive collection of Québécois art and historical documents.
After visitors have explored Vieux Québec, I suggest they should venture out to explore the remainder of the city. Immediately, beyond the walls of the old city is the Grande Allee, dominated by Victorian mansions of the late 1800s, and considered by locals to be a smaller version of Paris’s Champs Elysees.
Here, where the beautiful people nightly congregate, there is a large concentration of cafes, bistros, restaurants and some of Quebec City’s best pubs and nightspots. The most important public building along the Grande Allee is the impressive National Assembly, more than a hundred years old.
The best time to travel to Québec City is during the famous January-February Québec Winter Carnival – a massive 17-day blowout, known as ‘Mardi Gras in the snow; or during the July Quebec International Summer Festival – the largest French-speaking cultural celebration on the continent.
These two festivals are at the top of the list of some 29 annual events in the city. In the words of one of our guides, “Any time you come, there will be one or two festivals in town. We like to have fun and, of course, like any visitor, you can join in.”
About the author:
This week Traveling Tales welcomes author and freelance travel writer, Habeeb Salloum, who makes his home in Toronto, Ontario,.
Photos by Habeeb Salloum:
1: A grand view of the upper town and the Chateau Frontenac Hotel.
2: Place Royale, one of the many squares in the Lower Town.
3: School children enjoy story time in the Brasse-Ville, or, Lower Town..
If You Go:
Facts About Quebec City:
- When in Quebec City, take a cruise on the Louis Jolliet cruise ship operated by ‘AML Cruises’ moored alongside the docks under the Chateau Frontenac on the edge of the Old Quebec – contact by toll free number 1-800-563-4643 for this and other cruises by the same company.
- Three fulfilling tours to take are offered by Viator Tours from Quebec City for whale watching at Baie Ste-Catherine – Cost $83.90 and up; Montmorency Falls and the shrine of Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré – Cost $33.75; City Tour – Cost $24.23. (Prices quoted in CDN dollars.)
- Where to Eat: Old Québec City and the surrounding area have more restaurants per capita than any other city in North America –some 100 bistros, cafes and gourmet restaurants. Dinners run from about $15. in chain restaurants to some $75.CDN in gourmet dining places. For traditional food like the meat pie, tourtière, Québec style pork and beans and maple syrup pie, Aux Anciens Canadiens is the place – meal of the day $14.75 CDN.
- Where to Stay: Hotels offer some 12,000 rooms in and around the old city – 2000 of these international class.
Some Additional Important Sites in Quebec City Not to Miss:
- Basilique Notre Dame de Québec – a 350 year-old cathedral which serves as a burial spot for most of Québec’s bishops.
- National Battlefields Park, includes the famous ‘Plains of Abraham’, where the British defeated the French in 1759 and ended French rule in Canada. Today, Battlefields Park is the city’s premier green space.
- Artillery Park,where costumed actors re-create life in barracks during the French and British eras.
Citadelle – a star-shaped fortress, flanking the city’s fortifications. In summer, an impressive changing of the guard ceremony takes place daily. - Museum of Ursulines – a quaint little museum which houses the oldest still functioning girls’ school in North America.
- Museum of Inuit Art – first museum south of the Arctic exclusively dedicated to Inuit art and culture.
Parc Aquarium de Québec – a fine wonderland of animals. - Wendake, an Indian reserve in the middle of suburbia where one can visit the Huron-Wendat Traditional Village, a re-created Huron village that is surrounded by a wood palisade.
- Cartier-Brebeuf National Historic Park, commemorates the spot where Jacques Cartier once wintered. Here also, a replica of his ship is on display.
For Further Information About Quebec City, Contact:
Tourisme Québec: for complete tourist information Québec, call: (514) 873-2015 or toll free:
1-877-363-7777, or visit web the site: www.bonjourquebec.com
Eby Street is a well-traveled thoroughfare, the William W. Snyder House, built in 1898—now re-named Jakobstettel Guest House—is an elegant Queen Anne style mansion, while the Steiner House built around 1857, is a four-square Georgian building fronting on King Street. (In the course of recent renovations, a child’s shoe was discovered buried in the wall – a good luck charm, according to an old German belief.)
Established by Elias W.B Snider in 1870, this was the first mill in Canada to export its prime quality flour to Glasgow, Liverpool and Belfast. Today the silos have been converted into an unusual retail outlet for the Village’s gifted craftspeople, and as a showcase for exquisite collections of crystal ornaments, brass lamps, jewelry, leatherwork, quilts, pottery and glass-blown objects d’art.
We could have kayaked. Or fished. Or even twisted through a yoga encounter. And Sally kayaked. I chose to read. We could have hiked, gone up the inlet to see the whales or the bears. Or we could have enjoyed the hot tub. Sally went hiking. I napped. We could have joined Mark on a Nature walk or cooked in the kitchen with Abby. Sal cooked. I chose to sip wine and watch the boats go by. Rendezvous Lodge has so many interests to pursue and sights to see, I decided that contemplation was the better part of valour. And I don’t regret a second of it.
Surprisingly, and despite the remoteness, despite the distance and the various modes of transportation, it all worked out and it all worked out easily. You can travel quickly and efficiently or you can take your time and languidly explore the area. It is hard to imagine a better way to spend a few days.
At Howard House millinery shop, we admire fetching brimmed hats elaborately decorated with gaudy fruits or elegant ostrich plumes and satin ribbons. We find the barbershop fronted by universal red and white poles, stage and express office, livery stables and government building, all remarkably restored. Period furnishings, wallpapers, artifacts and memorabilia are placed just as they might have been during the town’s hey-day.
Away from the river, weathered Scandinavian-designed houses exemplify turn-of-the- century homes. Thriving heritage gardens cluster around the doctor’s house and the vicarage; a group of residences sporting white lace curtains and railed porches back onto Opera House Street.
It was evening in the town of Pond Inlet when our flight landed, and though a heavy fog obscured the view, night could not have been further away. By late May, Nunavut has surrendered to 24-hour days, confusing the mind and body with sunshine even at 11pm.
“This is a harsh land,” cautions Parks Canada in its literature to visitors of Sirmilik National Park. “Rescue facilities and services are very limited…and may make rescue entirely impossible. You must be prepared for self-rescue.”
I am standing at the entrance to a splendid castle, its fireplace decorated with boughs of mistletoe and ivy, its hallway aglow with lights, and its grand staircase banisters wreathed in garlands of holly. The rich aroma of stuffed roast goose in a sage and onion gravy draws me to the dining room where distinguished guests exchange animated conversation across a table set in elegant style. The women wear silk gowns, their diamond necklaces winking in the light of candelabra centrepieces; the men sport mutton-chop moustaches and side-burns, and sip mulled wine from crystal goblets. A child’s laughter echoes faintly from one of the upstairs rooms. The ghosts of Christmases past still linger in the rooms of Craigdarroch Castle in Victoria, and although these guests at their Christmas banquet are figments of my imagination, the castle still celebrates this most joyous of all seasons by donning a mantle of dazzling Yuletide finery.
Craigdarroch Castle was completed in 1890 by coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, who spared no expense in furnishing his stately mansion with exquisite stained glass windows, oil paintings, and lavish Victorian furnishings. The family history, depicted in photos, memorabilia and information panels in the Exhibit Room on the second floor traces the lives of Robert and Joan Dunsmuir, their ten children and some of their grandchildren. The Dunsmuir progeny for the most part, however, seem to have been lonely, neurotic individuals, cursed rather than blessed by their inheritance.
Leaving Victoria’s past and returning to its present, I stroll through the corridors of the Empress Hotel to admire sixty or more exquisitely decorated Christmas trees which are part of their annual Festival of Trees celebration. Sponsored by local businesses and organizations, to raise funds for the B.C. Children’s Hospital, it is a fitting commemoration of the Child born in Bethlehem and His ageless message of love and compassion.
But the evening isn’t over yet. Before boarding our limo under the gaze of twelve drummers marching overhead, our hosts from the Inn at Laurel Point offer us a choice of hot chocolate or eggnog beverages. I lift a mug of steaming hot, satiny smooth eggnog, laced with an out-of-this-world combination of rum and spices, and drink a toast to Victoria’s ghosts of Christmases past, and to its magical spirit of Christmas present.
The Inn at Laurel Point is the epitome of luxury and attentive personalized service.
What’s one thing that most people hope for when planning a vacation? Good weather, right? It’s always top priority on my travel wish list. So, as we load onto the BC ferry, bound for Langdale, my spirits literally dampen when pellet-size droplets spill from the swollen skies. 
Even though it’s just minutes from the grid, Sakinaw Lake Lodge feels blissfully removed from civilization. We’re whisked away by an African Queen-like pontoon boat to the far side of the lake where it snuggles into the forested hillside. Two of the guest sanctuaries cantilever over lapping waves. The main cozy cottage that sleeps three, boasts an all-equipped kitchen and the penthouse tent house depicts glamping to a tee. Chiropractic queen beds, crisp Egyptian cotton duvets, comfy Fretted bathrobes –this is my kind of camping! 
The property is a labor of love for Garrett and Liza Gabriel, and Garrett’s mother, Donna. “We each have our preferences and talents,” Liza shares. “Donna has the green gardener’s thumb, Garret is the wine guy and I do most of the cooking.” 
Jervis Inlet bisects the upper and lower sections of the Sunshine Coast and BC Ferries bridges them together. Our fifty minute scenic cruise is more like a National Geographic slide show and from front row seats the rolling vistas include quiet inlets, lush finger-like fjords and jagged peaks. 
The quaint historical fishing village of Lund, founded by the Thulin brothers in 1889, is also the gateway to Desolation Sound. Along with remnants of the Swedish heritage it oozes lots of charm and allure. A boardwalk flanked by a handful of shops and eateries trails down to the hull-filled marina. Whether it’s waiting for the fresh catch to come in or a tour boat to go out, there’s never a dull moment. 
In the adjacent dining room mealtime magic happens three times a day. Our palates are pleased after the chef savvy line-up; beautifully executed crab cakes precede Sevilla Island Seafood Boats, Ian’s sensational creation of roasted squash that brims over with scallops, salmon, and prawns. After being paired with fine wine it’s topped off with a decadent dessert. We also discover that the breakfasts are just as grand: melt in your mouth blueberry scones and homemade preserves, followed by hearty entrees –ranging from anything and everything omelets to fluffy French toast. Ian and Donna believe a hearty meal is an important start to the day. And in order to check out the abundant sea life that thrives below the lapping waves, you’ll want to be energized. 
Lund’s Terracentric Coastal Adventures also provides tours above and beneath the deep, and on our final day we venture out on a zodiac, with high hopes of spotting some sea life. The sky looks ominous and dark bulbous clouds threaten rain. Once again my fingers are crossed for a little bit of luck. 
Terracentric believes that we’re all connected to our natural environment and our guide Christine Hollmann has a wonderful way of integrating eco-education with the stunning surroundings. While paralleling the mainland, we learn about the First Nations people and explorer Captain Vancouver. In shallow bays she shares the symbiotic relationship between otters, sea urchins and kelp. And when checking out lazy sun-bathing seals we discover the importance of keeping our distance. This act of privacy is a guideline that Christine closely adheres to and though we never invade their personal space, we’re able to get a real good glimpse of the sea life that abounds. 
As we’re heading back, we have one last performance –a grand finale off to the distant starboard. Jet black torsos break the still surface, revealing their pure white undercarriages before submerging again. They swim at record speeds, darting back and forth, leaping and cresting in unison, creating a riot of rooster tail spray. Though it’s just a feeding frenzy to these Dall’s Porpoise, it’s a synchronized water ballet to us. And as rays of sun slice through the cloudy overcast sky, another wish is granted. The Sunshine Coast –it’s a destination of eco excellence whatever the weather! 
This is also a story of humiliation. A dark time in our history when racism flourished like a parasitic flower watered by discrimination and injustice. In an effort to discourage Chinese from coming to these shores, a head tax of $50 was applied (an enormous sum in those days), and when that failed to have the desired effect, it was increased to $500. It meant that many men weren’t able to afford to bring their wives and children to Canada, and spent whatever leisure time they had hanging out in bars and gambling dens, their loneliness tempered only by the oblivion of the opium pipe, and the consolation of prostitutes. They worked hard, but the lure of easy money on the gambling circuit meant that they often lost hard too.
On Fisgard, Adams pauses before mural of this very same street, back in the 1880s. It portrays a squelchy mud road, flanked by houses with wooden balconies, and the artist has prettied it up by including kids and women – none of whom, according to Adams would have been there at the time. The adjoining mural depicting Way Sang Yuen’s herbalist shop is no longer there (it’s now in the Burnaby Village Museum) but today’s Chinatown still boasts herbalists galore. I drop into one just a few steps away, and am engulfed by a completely 
different world. The room is cramped, the glass display case filled with gnarled roots, twigs, seeds and other esoteric medicinal potions, labeled in Chinese. The herbalist doctor has a line up of people to meet with him, so I content myself with watching his assistant weigh several bundles of leaves and pound them in a mortar and pestle. She speaks no English, but smiles broadly. Her little girl offers me her kitten to stroke.
Probably the most illustrious “Lee” in Chinatown is featured on a mural directly opposite the Chinese Public School. Lee Mong Kow was a dynamic business entrepreneur, a dedicated champion of his Chinese brethren (he acted as a go-between between the Chinese and Canadian bureaucracy) and a tireless social worker. He somehow also managed to find time (and energy!) to sire seventeen children, thirteen of whom survived to adulthood.
Adams takes us via Lee Mong Kow Way to Centennial Square once part of Cormorant Street, the very centre of old Chinatown. A few high class brothels flanked the street as did an opium factory. Opium was legal then; gambling however was not!
burned (along with joss sticks) at funerals to ensure that the spirits of the departed are comfortable and have money to spend in the afterlife. This is a prelude to the most fascinating of all subjects on this tour—the traditions and rites which shaped Chinese lives, not just then, but also today. Adams is a superb raconteur, and his perceptive insights shed light on Eastern beliefs that stand in contrast to our pragmatic Western outlook.
A highlight of the tour is Fan Tan Alley, a narrow lane running like a crack between red two-storey brick buildings. Despite the souvenir shops and trendy clothing racks lining the alleyway, there is much that evokes a sense of the past—secret gambling and opium dens that flourished above the alley and its maze of tributary lanes. Chinese signage mark entrances to hidden courtyards such as the one where Adams gives us a quick demonstration of how to play Fan Tan, the popular gambling pastime from which the alleyway derives its name. A red wooden door carrying the number 23 ½ denotes a mezzanine residential apartment tucked in between floors—at one time it probably housed several men rooming together to save money. Like Fan Tan Alley, Dragon Alley on the north side of Fisgard street, was also a secluded labyrinthine neighbourhood.
Although the Chinatown Walking tour with John Adams ends at the Gate of Harmonious Interest, he offers to accompany those of us who are interested in taking a look at the oldest Chinese temple in Chinatown. Housed in the topmost floor of the Yen Wo Society building across the street, the Tam Kung temple is worth the climb of 51 steps.
A patron saint of seafarers, Tam Kung’s statue is resplendent in red and gold brocade robes, set within an elaborate gilt framework which glows in the light of candles. Ornate silk processional flags and banners cover the walls, and the altar is laden offerings of fruit and flowers. Few devotees are here this morning, and the temple is tranquil, the only sound being the muffled ‘whoosh’ of traffic wafting up from Government Street. Adams talks about Eastern beliefs in predestined fate, and the search for answers to questions, obtained by tossing small wooden tokens, or the process of vigorously shaking bamboo sticks in a container, to reveal coded messages predicting health and prosperity, or the lack of it.
