Canada Travel Stories

Sunshine Coast: An Eco Adventure Whatever the Weather

By Jane Cassie

What’s one thing that most people hope for when planning a vacation? Good weather, right? It’s always top priority on my travel wish list. So, as we load onto the BC ferry, bound for Langdale, my spirits literally dampen when pellet-size droplets spill from the swollen skies. “Maybe the Sunshine Coast will live up to its name,” my optimistically-minded husband says, from beneath his protective umbrella. “I’ve heard the odds are pretty good.”

He’s absolutely right. It’s reported that this lush 180 kilometer (110 mi) strip of shoreline, sandwiched between Pacific waves and coastal peaks, receives around 2,400 hours of annual sun. Though it’s a little premature to dig out the sun block, my fingers are crossed.

Our island-studded cruise of Howe Sound is scenic and smooth, and by the time we bridge the forty minute waterway my weather wish comes true. A few meager rays break through the thick grey dome above and brighten the adventuresome route that waits ahead.

While some veer into the seaside town of Gibsons, and home of Molly’s Reach, we take the high road. Gnarled arbutus trees and bushy evergreens frame our peek-a-boo ocean views where kayakers, canoeists and sailors ply protected waterways. Land lovers are lured to the Mother lode of ‘grounded’ adventures; nature walks, hiking trails, picnic pull-ins and campgrounds –everything from rustic backwoods sites to lush parks that are packed with amenities.

We coast through the laid-back community of Robert’s Creek, parallel the promenade that rims Davis Bay and tootle along Sechelt’s main drag. This thriving hub that’s well rooted by Coast Salish heritage is linked by a slender isthmus to BC’s mainland. An inland sea, gouged out by the melting ice age 10,000 years ago, fills the gap in between. Today, this tranquil waterway is rated one of the top 100 dive sites in the world, and the sunken HMCS Chaudiere provides a flourishing reef.

Situated at the southern end of this idyllic inlet is Porpoise Bay Provincial Park, just one of the pleasure stops that dot the shoreline. Tall timbers shade the grassy areas and a sandy beachfront skirts the bay. As well being a drawing card for families, kayakers take to these still waters, floatplanes view them from above, and anchored yachts bob here in regal style.

Although it all looks inviting, we keep on trekking –along Halfmoon Bay, beyond the alluring picnic grounds of Coopers Green Regional Park and past the hidden gem of Secret Cove.

Finally we meander into Pender Harbour, a waterfront enclave that collectively unites the communities of Madeira Park, Garden Bay and Irving’s Landing. Inlets are sculpted into the lush shoreline, lakes are carved into the wooded hillsides and islets dot the aquatic perimeters. It’s not surprising that this stunning seascape has been coined ‘Venice of the North.’ We also discover that it’s one epic playground!

Before expending any energy, we re-fuel at the Copper Sky Café and Gallery, a funky eatery that combines home cooking with artisan treasures. With mile-high sandwiches and scrumptious pastry under our belt, we’re ready for action and Andy Cardiff, owner of Malaspina Water Taxi has plenty of it to dish out. He’s been the skipper of his ocean going cruisers and kayaks since 2005 and it’s easy to see he’s in his glory. “I operate year-round, 24/ 7,” he says with a wide grin. “And to me, this kind of work is playtime.”

We could paddle to the untarnished jewel of Jedediah Island where hiking trails weave through old-growth Douglas Fir or cruise to the distant Chatterbox Falls that tumbles from a forty-five meter precipice. But there’s no need to stray that far. The surrounding region not only offers unspoiled beauty but brims over with natural wonders.

With Andy at the helm, we cruise out of the harbor, passing classy hilltop homes and the hiker’s hangout of Mount Daniel. We check out the craggy Indian Islands where eagles, herons and teary-eyed seals provide non-stop entertainment and sidle up to Fearney Bluffs, a 120 meter (400 ft) deep grotto that thrives with sea life. Pictographs etched on granite rock faces depict an ancient story and Agamemnon Channel frames the omnipresent snow tipped peaks. Our final stop is Robert’s Beach on Nelson Island where remnants of an old log cabin still stand. Embracing the setting is crescent-shaped shoreline that’s strewn with storm-tossed driftwood. As well as a hot spot to explore it’s a perfect place to reflect and relax. And like the rest of this two hour tour, leaves us with a sense of awe.

We both love the great outdoors and though the Sunshine Coast is dotted with places to pitch a tent, when it comes to doing the ‘camp thing’ my husband and I don’t quite jive. He’d be quite content to cuddle in a mummy bag of eiderdown, but my spine goes into spasm after sleeping on a mattress of earthy rough stuff. Thanks to our posh eco-style accommodations along the way, more on my wish list is granted.

Even though it’s just minutes from the grid, Sakinaw Lake Lodge feels blissfully removed from civilization. We’re whisked away by an African Queen-like pontoon boat to the far side of the lake where it snuggles into the forested hillside. Two of the guest sanctuaries cantilever over lapping waves. The main cozy cottage that sleeps three, boasts an all-equipped kitchen and the penthouse tent house depicts glamping to a tee. Chiropractic queen beds, crisp Egyptian cotton duvets, comfy Fretted bathrobes –this is my kind of camping!

The property is a labor of love for Garrett and Liza Gabriel, and Garrett’s mother, Donna. “We each have our preferences and talents,” Liza shares. “Donna has the green gardener’s thumb, Garret is the wine guy and I do most of the cooking.”

Bountiful breakfasts are included with each night’s stay and though a communal barbecue, fridge and cooking facilities are available for other meals, guests often opt for the delicious delights ala Liza. It’s hard to turn down her miso-glazed halibut, wasabi mashed potatoes and roasted asparagus, especially when paired with Garret’s recommended vino. Yes, it sure beats baked beans around the campfire!

And this hideaway also offers lots of ways to help burn off those unwanted calories. Balance on a wakeboard, skim the lake on a boat cruise, trek the trails that lace its seven wooded acres –or feel free to follow our lead. Just sit back and relax in the shadow of Hallowell Mountain and enjoy this slice of serenity.

In addition to seclusion, our next eco retreat, literally offers a taste of Desolation.

Jervis Inlet bisects the upper and lower sections of the Sunshine Coast and BC Ferries bridges them together. Our fifty minute scenic cruise is more like a National Geographic slide show and from front row seats the rolling vistas include quiet inlets, lush finger-like fjords and jagged peaks.

From the ferry drop off point at the divers den of Saltery Bay, Highway 101 continues to pave the way. We pass by a strip of verdant parkland that links the hub of Westview with Powell River’s historic Townsite, bisect the recreation jewel of Powell Lake and slink by the Coast Salish village of Sliammon. It’s tempting to stop and survey each scene, but we’re on a mission for more creature comforts. And we soon find them at the end of the road.

The quaint historical fishing village of Lund, founded by the Thulin brothers in 1889, is also the gateway to Desolation Sound. Along with remnants of the Swedish heritage it oozes lots of charm and allure. A boardwalk flanked by a handful of shops and eateries trails down to the hull-filled marina. Whether it’s waiting for the fresh catch to come in or a tour boat to go out, there’s never a dull moment.

Overlooking this waterfront town from its solo rocky bluff is The Sevilla Island Resort, a posh spot that combines pampering perks with treats from the sea. Owners Ian Hobbs and Donna Kaye roll out the red carpet and in the comfort of their cruiser we’re transported to this dream scene. The thirty five hundred square foot treasure delightfully unites flavours of the West Coast with Santa Fe. Gleaming hemlock floors lead us to our handsomely decorated suite, where a colourful duvet drapes the comfy queen bed and flat screen TV provides late night viewing. Thirsty towels and heat lamps warm up the spa style bathroom, and our private deck offers an awesome sea view. The same vista is framed by the twenty four foot high windows of the main floor great room, a faux finished beauty where we can read, relax, watch TV or listen to music.

In the adjacent dining room mealtime magic happens three times a day. Our palates are pleased after the chef savvy line-up; beautifully executed crab cakes precede Sevilla Island Seafood Boats, Ian’s sensational creation of roasted squash that brims over with scallops, salmon, and prawns. After being paired with fine wine it’s topped off with a decadent dessert. We also discover that the breakfasts are just as grand: melt in your mouth blueberry scones and homemade preserves, followed by hearty entrees –ranging from anything and everything omelets to fluffy French toast. Ian and Donna believe a hearty meal is an important start to the day. And in order to check out the abundant sea life that thrives below the lapping waves, you’ll want to be energized.

“I’ve been diving all over the world,” Ian shares, “And the underwater metropolis in this area beats anything I’ve ever seen.” Whether it’s from behind a snorkel and mask or in the comfort of his ocean-worthy cruiser, Ian promises to make your every eco wish come true. Kayak the neighboring islands where you’ll spot seals, eagles, and sea stars. Bike on Savary Island and picnic on a sandy beach, or hike the Sunshine Coast Trail that stretches all the way to Saltery Bay.

Lund’s Terracentric Coastal Adventures also provides tours above and beneath the deep, and on our final day we venture out on a zodiac, with high hopes of spotting some sea life. The sky looks ominous and dark bulbous clouds threaten rain. Once again my fingers are crossed for a little bit of luck.

We cruise up Thulin passage, a slim waterway that separates the mainland from the Copeland Islands and slow down to take photos of stoic cormorants, blue herons and a family of mergansers. Birdlife is prolific in these parts, as is the beauty. Kingfishers, sandpipers, gulls and other migratory species are spotted around the craggy shorelines, evergreen islets and older growth timber. We agree whole-heartedly with Jacques Cousteau that the scenery is second to none.

Terracentric believes that we’re all connected to our natural environment and our guide Christine Hollmann has a wonderful way of integrating eco-education with the stunning surroundings. While paralleling the mainland, we learn about the First Nations people and explorer Captain Vancouver. In shallow bays she shares the symbiotic relationship between otters, sea urchins and kelp. And when checking out lazy sun-bathing seals we discover the importance of keeping our distance. This act of privacy is a guideline that Christine closely adheres to and though we never invade their personal space, we’re able to get a real good glimpse of the sea life that abounds.

As we’re heading back, we have one last performance –a grand finale off to the distant starboard. Jet black torsos break the still surface, revealing their pure white undercarriages before submerging again. They swim at record speeds, darting back and forth, leaping and cresting in unison, creating a riot of rooster tail spray. Though it’s just a feeding frenzy to these Dall’s Porpoise, it’s a synchronized water ballet to us. And as rays of sun slice through the cloudy overcast sky, another wish is granted. The Sunshine Coast –it’s a destination of eco excellence whatever the weather!

If You Go:

Copper Sky Café and Gallery
12904 Madeira Park Road
Madeira Park, BC
Tel: (604) 883-0096 Gallery (604) 883-0098
Email: copperskygallery@dccnet.com

Malaspina Water Taxi & Tours
Tel: 604-989-BOAT (2628)
Email MalaspinaWaterTaxi@gmail.com

Sakinaw Lake Lodge
Tel: 1-604-989-3242 (888) 341-1720
Email: escape@sakinawlakelodge.com

Sevilla Island Resort
Tel: 604-414-6880
Email: info@sevillaislandresort.ca

Terracentric Coastal adventures ltd.
Tel: (604) 483 7900
info@terracentricadventures.com

Sunshine Coast
www.bigpacific.com/

This week Traveling Tales welcomes the freelance travel writer/photographer team of Jane and Brent Cassie, who live in South Surrey, a suburb of Vancouver B.C..

Photos by Brent Cassie:

1. Roberts Beach
2. Saknaw Lake Lodge
3. Owners of the Lodge
4. Fjords of Jervis Inlet
5. Lund
6. Ian Host & Chef
7. Zodiac in bay
8. Seals on rocks
9. Comorants

Victoria’s Chinatown – A Once Forbidden City

Chinatown in Victoria, BC is a Treasure Trove of Travel Adventures

by Margaret Deefholts

Nothing and no one can destroy the Chinese people. They are relentless survivors. They yield, they bend to the wind, but they never break.
– Pearl Buck in China Past & Present.

Victoria’s Chinatown this early May morning is misty: the flamboyant gold tiles and red pillars of the Gate of Harmonious Interest on Government Street are muted and Fisgard Street beyond the Gate is veiled in chiffon-like tendrils of mist. I feel as though I’m standing on the edge of a world shrouded in mystery, of whispered secrets and strange fantastical tales.

What of the past lingers on here, except in my imagination? Do Chinatown’s labyrinthine lanes still carry the faint rattle of mah-jong tiles, are its alleyways still suffused with the sickly sweet smell of opium? Do the ghosts of seductive women still lounge in the shadowy doorways, their dark almond-shaped eyes holding the promise of wickedly sensual pleasures?

I’m about to embark on a journey viewed through a keyhole into a hidden culture, little understood by most white Canadians at the time. Or even today for that matter.

John Adams, host of Chinatown Walks, talks about those times—and the Chinese who came here in search of a dream during the heady days of the gold rush back in 1858. “None of them intended to stay permanently in Canada.” He says. “They figured on striking it rich, and going back to China wearing silken robes.” Adams adds: “Some did. Most did not.”

And so this is the story of those who didn’t. The men whose days were lived out on these streets. It was a hard scrabble life, but even so, better than their prospects in China. So they hung on, tending their modest backyard vegetable gardens, and selling their produce at street stalls. Many found employment as seasonal cooks at logging camps, or toiled behind the steamy rush of a laundry tub. Thousands left Victoria to build, under appalling conditions, the Canadian Pacific Railway, in the process of which many would die of malnutrition and exhaustion.

This is also a story of humiliation. A dark time in our history when racism flourished like a parasitic flower watered by discrimination and injustice. In an effort to discourage Chinese from coming to these shores, a head tax of $50 was applied (an enormous sum in those days), and when that failed to have the desired effect, it was increased to $500. It meant that many men weren’t able to afford to bring their wives and children to Canada, and spent whatever leisure time they had hanging out in bars and gambling dens, their loneliness tempered only by the oblivion of the opium pipe, and the consolation of prostitutes. They worked hard, but the lure of easy money on the gambling circuit meant that they often lost hard too.

On Fisgard, Adams pauses before mural of this very same street, back in the 1880s. It portrays a squelchy mud road, flanked by houses with wooden balconies, and the artist has prettied it up by including kids and women – none of whom, according to Adams would have been there at the time. The adjoining mural depicting Way Sang Yuen’s herbalist shop is no longer there (it’s now in the Burnaby Village Museum) but today’s Chinatown still boasts herbalists galore. I drop into one just a few steps away, and am engulfed by a completely different world. The room is cramped, the glass display case filled with gnarled roots, twigs, seeds and other esoteric medicinal potions, labeled in Chinese. The herbalist doctor has a line up of people to meet with him, so I content myself with watching his assistant weigh several bundles of leaves and pound them in a mortar and pestle. She speaks no English, but smiles broadly. Her little girl offers me her kitten to stroke.

Would this tot be enrolled in the Chinese Public School just up the street, I wonder. The school had a troubled history: as an amalgamation of little privately run schools teaching Cantonese (remembering that many families hoped eventually to return to China) the Lock Quun Chinese School was declared illegal by the Canadian government which, in the same breath, barred children of Chinese origin from entering English public schools. A battle ensued, but eventually the Chinese Public School was recognized as an institution celebrating Chinese languages and culture. It still is today. Next to it is another time honoured institution, the Lee Benevolent Society. “Lee,” says Adams, “is the most common of all Chinese clan names in Victoria.”

Probably the most illustrious “Lee” in Chinatown is featured on a mural directly opposite the Chinese Public School. Lee Mong Kow was a dynamic business entrepreneur, a dedicated champion of his Chinese brethren (he acted as a go-between between the Chinese and Canadian bureaucracy) and a tireless social worker. He somehow also managed to find time (and energy!) to sire seventeen children, thirteen of whom survived to adulthood.

Adams takes us via Lee Mong Kow Way to Centennial Square once part of Cormorant Street, the very centre of old Chinatown. A few high class brothels flanked the street as did an opium factory. Opium was legal then; gambling however was not!

Crossing over to what is Market Square today, we find out that this was where the boundary of Chinatown ran – once demarcated by a stream (now flowing underground). Adams hands around “Heaven Bank” paper notes of $10,000 denominations. These are usually burned (along with joss sticks) at funerals to ensure that the spirits of the departed are comfortable and have money to spend in the afterlife. This is a prelude to the most fascinating of all subjects on this tour—the traditions and rites which shaped Chinese lives, not just then, but also today. Adams is a superb raconteur, and his perceptive insights shed light on Eastern beliefs that stand in contrast to our pragmatic Western outlook.

A highlight of the tour is Fan Tan Alley, a narrow lane running like a crack between red two-storey brick buildings. Despite the souvenir shops and trendy clothing racks lining the alleyway, there is much that evokes a sense of the past—secret gambling and opium dens that flourished above the alley and its maze of tributary lanes. Chinese signage mark entrances to hidden courtyards such as the one where Adams gives us a quick demonstration of how to play Fan Tan, the popular gambling pastime from which the alleyway derives its name. A red wooden door carrying the number 23 ½ denotes a mezzanine residential apartment tucked in between floors—at one time it probably housed several men rooming together to save money. Like Fan Tan Alley, Dragon Alley on the north side of Fisgard street, was also a secluded labyrinthine neighbourhood.

Although the Chinatown Walking tour with John Adams ends at the Gate of Harmonious Interest, he offers to accompany those of us who are interested in taking a look at the oldest Chinese temple in Chinatown. Housed in the topmost floor of the Yen Wo Society building across the street, the Tam Kung temple is worth the climb of 51 steps.

A patron saint of seafarers, Tam Kung’s statue is resplendent in red and gold brocade robes, set within an elaborate gilt framework which glows in the light of candles. Ornate silk processional flags and banners cover the walls, and the altar is laden offerings of fruit and flowers. Few devotees are here this morning, and the temple is tranquil, the only sound being the muffled ‘whoosh’ of traffic wafting up from Government Street. Adams talks about Eastern beliefs in predestined fate, and the search for answers to questions, obtained by tossing small wooden tokens, or the process of vigorously shaking bamboo sticks in a container, to reveal coded messages predicting health and prosperity, or the lack of it.

As we emerge back onto the street, the morning mist has dissipated, and bright sunshine floods Chinatown’s main thoroughfare. Nothing could be more welcome at the end of the tour than a Chinese meal, and nothing fits the bill better than the long established Don Mee restaurant where the spicy Szechwan fare is as terrific as a good-luck Chinese Dragon’s blessing.

My fortune cookie says, “Much will be revealed to you.” True enough!

IF YOU GO:

Chinatown Walks take place every Saturday at 10:30 am throughout the year (and on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays during July and August). They last 90 minutes and start from the “Bright Pearl” sculpture in front of Starbucks Coffee at the corner of Fisgard and Government streets, opposite the Gate of Harmonious Interest.

No reservations are needed. Adults $12; students and seniors $10; families $30. Purchase tickets from the guide before the tour starts. Group tours any time by prior booking.

For more information on Discover the Past Chinatown walks go to http://discoverthepast.com/chinatown-walks/

Inside Chinatown: Ancient Culture in a New World
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Photos by Margaret Deefholts (except when otherwise indicated)

Mural of Herbalist Shop in the 1880s
Mural of Fisgard Street in the 1880s
A herbalist shop in today’s Chinatown
Opium license costing $250.00
John Adams shows his audience a Chinese opium pipe
Fan Tan Alley – 3 feet across at its narrowest section.
John Adams demonstrates the gambling game of Fan-Tan (Photo: Ursula Maxwell-Lewis)
The origins of Victoria’s Chinatown were in today’s Market Square
Prayer shrine in Chinatown’s oldest temple, Yen Wo Society
Gate of Harmonious Interest – Government & Fisgard Streets
Poster of Lee Mong Kow

Treasures Of The British Museum Comes To Victoria On An Exclusive North American Visit

Story and photos by Margaret Deefholts

At Victoria’s Royal B.C. Museum, a frisson of anticipation and curiosity ripples though the audience, as Brendan Moore, Curator of the British Museum takes the podium. He is here to talk about the RBCM’s forthcoming mega show, “The Treasures of the British Museum” and is about to unveil four precious objets d’art – a sample drawn from over three hundred artefacts which will astonish and delight visitors when the show opens in Victoria on May 1st. There is an eager rustle among the crowd as a curtain is drawn aside and TV camera-men and press photographers surge forward to take a closer look.

Before us today is a jug from Athens, Greece, dating from 510 B.C., an articulated iron dragon from Japan (1800s) and an intriguing, if somewhat unsettling contemporary piece-a Throne of Weapons fashioned in 2001 from decommissioned weapons collected at the end of the civil war in Mozambique in 1992. To the clicking of cameras, Moore holds up the fourth exhibit, an Egyptian Astrolabe dating from 13th or 14th century used to measure altitude, determine time, compile horoscopes and – very importantly – establish the direction of Mecca.

The exhibition covers nearly one-and-a-half million years of human history and spans seven geographic regions, each with its own cultural identity. Africa is believed to be the birthplace of mankind and this section displays a hand axe found in the Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania dating back to between1.6 and 1.4 million BC. Mind boggling!

By the entrance is a replica of the famed Rosetta Stone circa 196 BC that has intrigued and fascinated scholars since its discovery in 1799. The columns of inscriptions in hieroglyphics, demotic script and Greek consist of a series of decrees during the reign of the 13-year old Ptolemy V. A mummy and an elaborately decorated inner coffin dating from 305 to 30 BC exemplify death and eternity, as celebrated by the ancient Egyptians. Many exhibits are what you’d expect in a world-class Museum – objects of great beauty, and rarity, such as an headdresses of gold, lapis lazuli and carnelian from Iraq and a Zun, a ritual vessel from the Shang dynasty (1500-1050 BC) which is perhaps the British Museum’s most famous Chinese bronze.

In the European section, Harry Potter fans will recognize the red and white chessmen featured in the first film of the series; they are believed to be from Norway and stories about their discovery in the Outer Hebrides off the coast of Scotland is the stuff of speculative imagination and fable.

Art aficionados will be transfixed by great masters such as Rembrandt, Picasso and Matisse, and wonder-struck by an exquisitely detailed eight-fold Japanese Tsushima River Festival screen. Gold and silver coins, a rare stone pestle from Papua New Guinea, a Java Gamelan set, Peruvian and Mayan treasures, and several provocative contemporary pieces are a mere sampling of the 309 items on display.

The notable thing about our Victoria Royal B.C. Museum is its innovative approach to special exhibitions. Although many of the objects will be behind glass, the circular Enlightenment Centre at the hub of the 10,000 square feet area, is a dynamic, hands-on, interactive space. “Kids” of all ages, from five to ninety-five (yes, you’ll become a ‘kid’ again!) will be glued to enigmatic puzzles on computer screens, they’ll peer into the contents of the four Cabinets of Curiosity, experiment with cuneiform tablets, and handle ancient stone tools.

By way of variety, families will be able to join a Family Tour with special highlights for children; others can participate in a “Magical Mystery Tour” or a “Treasure Trove Hunt”. And if you’re around in the evening, you might enjoy a Wine Tour featuring artefacts that contained ambrosial elixirs which once intoxicated the gods!

Here in the Museum today, I feel the thrill and exhilaration that comes from being on the brink of what Pauline Rafferty, CEO of the RBCM, proudly calls, “one of the Museum’s most ambitious projects and the only one of its kind in all of North America.”

As Exhibition Designer Ken Johnson, leads the way through the galleries, we sidestep tools, ladders and hoists, listen to the rat-a-tat-tat of drills, and share in the shiver of anticipation felt by all the many crew – technicians, laboratory wizards, painters and artists who have spent five months behind the scenes preparing for this show. The scenery is up, the lighting is cued, the props are all in place and the stage is set. All that remains is for the curtain to rise. Be sure to get a front row seat!

For More Information:

The Treasures of the British Museum opens on May 1st and runs to September 30th 2009.

Royal B.C. Museum: www.royalbcmuseum.bc.ca/Treasures

Getting There:

Enjoy a scenic 1 hour 35 minutes trip via B.C. Ferries http://www.bcferries.com/ Treasures Themed Packages: Clipper Vacations (from Seattle) www.clippervacations.com
Inn At Laurel Point (a fabulous five star deal!) www.laurelpoint.com
Skanda Jewelers www.skanda.ca
The Fairmont Empress www.fairmont.com/empress
Abigail’s Hotel (delightful boutique B&B) www.abigailshotel.com
Hotel Grand Pacific www.grandpacific.com
Magnolia Hotel & Spa (luxury B&B) www.magnoliahotel.com
The Oswego Hotel www.oswegovictoria.com

Photos and cut-lines

1. Against an Ancient Rome backdrop, Brendan Moore, Curator of the British Museum stands beside the Throne of Weapons and holds aloft a 14th century Egyptian Astrolabe – Photo Margaret Deefholts
2. A magnified look at a chessman from Norway found in the Outer Hebrides in 1831 and featured in the first Harry Potter film. Photo Margaret Deefholts
3. Greek Jug depicting Herakles fighting the Erymathian boar. Photo Margaret Deefholts
4. Coffin – Egypt 305 – 30 B.C.
5. An engrossed viewer in the Enlightenment Centre. Photo: Margaret Deefholts
6. Panel detail from the Tsushima River Festival screen. Photo Courtesy The Trustees of the British Museum

Romancing the Stone: Streaking Along the Sunshine Coast and Visiting Rockwater Secret Cove Resort

Story and photos by Cherie Thiessen

In the old days we knew it as Lord Jim Resort, a collection of chalets and cottages on a pretty part of British Columbia’s Sunshine Coast, picturesquely named Halfmoon Bay. We would drop in for a decent meal overlooking the sea, or sometimes we would sail there from Vancouver Island and tie up for a few days of R & R after the frequently adventurous Georgia Strait crossing in our 23′ Crown sailboat.

But that was then and this is now, and Lord Jim is now Rockwater Secret Cove Resort, the hottest romantic getaway on the coast, with 67 weddings on the books this year according to President, Kevin Toth. Toth, who was 17 years with the Fairmont Hotel Chain, is telling us how he was influenced by African Safari properties when he started looking at the resort and trying to decide what he could do with the undeveloped, gorgeous strip of oceanfront property to the left of the main buildings and marina. He wanted a development with a low environmental impact but it had to be classy, effective, and luxurious. He started thinking tents.

So we started looking and found a circus tent design we liked, then found a local tent manufacturer and explained what we were after. He delivered. Everything was built by hand, and when we started developing that section of the property we didn’t use any machinery. We had a goal to cut down as few trees as possible. Each tent site was personally inspected and chosen. We then put in 2400′ of boardwalk to link them all together.

Now if you’re thinking tents can’t possibly be luxurious or romantic, you don’t know the Serengeti. Or Okavango Delta. Start picturing luxurious carpets, marble floors, four posters, spacious bathrooms and every imaginable luxury.

But we were out to discover what a resort had to do to qualify as romantic. The 13 tent house suites spaced along a boardwalk connecting to the main lodge, and curling through the arbutus-studded canopy was inspired. It definitely qualified for an “R” rating. Oceanfront views accompanied by the sound of surf never do any harm either. The extensive, covered, and largely private decks with comfortable furnishings, which enable lovers to come out, cuddle up and get some fresh air are also a nice cozy touch. We checked off fine linens, the king sized bed facing the ocean, the fluffy bathrobes, the fireplace, shoji screen the radiant floor heating and the amazing hydro therapy tub for two that massaged with water jets while bombarding us with flashing colored lights. Well, that got three checks actually. Finally, we approved of the book selection, the tea and coffee makers and the mini refrigerator. The final check was when I opened the refrigerator and yes – there it was – a container of real cream instead of that plastic dried stuff.

So far this place was measuring up in every little detail. Even the fact that tents don’t hold in the heat too well didn’t harm this romantic survey in the least because if you’re snuggling up together, a little cold can be a good thing.

But we were still not finished. Another touch is the hand carved gongs at the pathway to every tent, located far enough away to keep visitors at a respectful distance until you’re ready for them.

So what else defines romantic? Wine, roses and oysters, no doubt. So we head to the intimate, dreamy dining room and find it warmly lit. Rockwater has lucked out in its chef, Ben Andrew, who tosses off dishes like West Coast Bouillabaisse, Pacific Albacore Tuna, seared, with créme fraiche, and crisp capers, or Qualicum Bay Scallop Ceviche with preserved lime and scallions. We consider ourselves créme brule experts, and his classic creation was the finest. The wine selections were extensive and we were happy to see a good selection of wines by the glass, something many restaurants still overlook. We had no intention of falling off the boardwalk when the night was still young. And aren’t spas considered seductive? More checks then. The resort’s spa has had a special presence on the Sunshine Coast well before the tents wove their magic here. Clients have been able to walk along a boardwalk to a massage room without walls and enjoy a variety of relaxing treatments while listening to the gulls and the waves chasing each other just feet away. Now double that and make it a couple’s massage, and you have more accolades. Was there anything where it lost points? Well, while walls have ears, tent walls have hearing aides – sound is magnified. We were too shy to put this to the test, but if you are worried, may I suggest you ask for the waterfront tents located closest to the sea down their own private staircase? There’s a good chance the melodious sea might cover whatever sounds of delight issue from your Arabian Nights’ paradise.

Finally, the icing on the bridal cake, really, is our discovery that Rockwater actually employs someone whose job description is an elopement coordinator!

It’s time to go. We knew it had to happen. It’s hard enough to kiss romance goodbye, but after thirty years of marriage, good food is even harder to leave behind. For us, as possibly for you, there was solace in knowing that Spence on the Coast wasn’t too far away. This enterprising gourmet chef, who also has his own TV show, has opened a popular restaurant in nearby Sechelt, so where is it written that you have to leave the Sunshine Coast today? You’ve come this far, take another night and visit Spence, and then if you’re not ready to say goodbye to these incredible ocean views, book yourself in at Peter and Norma Bond’s nearby Bed and Breakfast, At the Shore. There should be another category to describe this place, as ‘ bed and breakfast’ just doesn’t do justice to the wholesome, gourmet ‘breakfast’, delivered to your room, or the ‘bed’, which comes with a fireplace, a Jacuzzi tub, an ocean knocking on your door, your own entrance, a mini kitchenette, a welcoming tray of sherry and cookies, an oceanfront hot tub, and hosts Peter and Norma Bond, whose special brand of hospitality combines a tactful respect for privacy with a willingness to help in whatever way they can. The older you (and your marriage) get, the more you come to realize that romance needs to be wooed. So, if it’s missing in your life these days, go on out, find it, experience it, and drag it home.

Photo credit: Cherie Thiessen

1. At the shore beach – guests can enjoy beachfront privacy.
2. Lund marina – the public docks looking over to Sevilla Island
3. Private tent – Rockwater guests wanting extra privacy might want to ask for a seaside ‘tent’ like this one.
4. Manzanita Restaurant, located in the old courthouse in Powell River’s old townsite.

Websites:

Rockwater Secret Cove Resort, http://www.rockwatersecretcoveresort.com/
At the Shore, (Peter and Norma Bond), http://www.attheshore.ca/
Spence on the Coast Restaurant, http://www.spenceonthecoast.com/
Manzanita Restaurant, http://www.manzanitarestaurant.com/

Historic Steveston’s Cannery Row

by Irene Butler

“He’s too short, and too ugly to marry,” said Asayo. At first it was thought this “picture bride” was in bad sorts from her long journey from Hiroshima Japan in 1923-but she meant it.

As was the practice of the time, Japanese immigrant workers chose a bride from a picture, and then worked via a matchmaker to arrange her passage to Canada. Refusing to wed this troll-like man, Asayo was obligated to pay back the $250 it cost to bring her to the fishing village of Steveston, British Columbia, which she did by working in a salmon cannery for two years.

Once free as a soaring eagle, she married Otokichi Murakami, a boat builder and fisherman. They moved into the ample home that my husband Rick and I were standing in. My opinion of space changed when our guide Gabrielle said, “Twelve people once lived in this home, with Asayo adding 8 children to the two her widower husband had from his first marriage.”

The Murakami house is in the mix of worker’s dwellings, cannery, and boatyard of the Britannia Shipyard National Historic Site, once one of 15 cannery complexes along Steveston’s Cannery Row. This twenty-year project called “How We Live” restored some of B.C.’s oldest shipyard buildings and outfitted them in furnishings and knick-knacks that transported us back to the early 20th century.

We learned of the segregation by race in housing that also translated into the jobs they were hired for in the cannery. Seventy-five Chinese workers once lived in the looming pale grey two-story building, yet to be restored. A 12-man bunkhouse was filled with paraphernalia of the day; washtubs, lye soap, tins of “Players” smokes, rubber work boots and aprons. This bunkhouse was once home to a dozen Japanese, First Nation (native Canadians), or European men. Married couples lived with their children in homes the size of an average bedroom today. I envisioned the young ones dressing in front of a pot-bellied stove-each home’s standard fixture-during the chilly winter rainy season.

Mrs. Murakami’s unconventional ways must have stirred neighbourhood gossip. She outrageously planted flowers instead of vegetables in her garden, and every Sunday she dressed in her finest, and left the family to fend for themselves while she strolled the afternoon away, and then spent the evening playing her violin.

Down the road from the Britannia Shipyards we came to the Gulf of Georgia Cannery (constructed in 1894) where workers chalked up 14-16-hour days when the salmon was running. To avoid spoilage the catch had to be in tin cans within 24 hours from the time they spilled from the fishermen’s nets.

We started at the sizeable door to the dock, where the salmon was brought into the cannery on a conveyor belt, and was sorted by workers wielding hooked instruments called peughs into wooden bins by type-sockeye, pink, coho, chum, steelhead. The fish were then shuttled to the Chinese butchers with “singing knives”, so named for the whssit sound of rapid slashing. Our guide Rob said, “A good butcher could remove the head, tail and degut 4 or 5 fish a minute.” I imagined the stench and the splatter and the odd missing digit. A steam-powered machine called the “Iron Chink” was later developed reducing the time to one fish per second.

Fish bodies were transferred to a line of mostly Japanese fishermen’s wives. Many with babies on their backs tediously washed the slime and blood from the fish. From here the salmon was whisked along to machines that clanked and clanged in a deafening din to portion-cut, pack the tins and weigh the contents all under the watchful eyes of mostly European women who, if necessary, added or removed a smidgeon of fish to ensure the customers got exactly what they paid for. A pinch of salt and it was on to the “clincher machine” which loosely crimped the lids, ready for the “vacuum closing machine”.

Men took over again as skids loaded with product entered the steam-pressure cookers for 1-1/2 hours at 127° C. The skids were rolled out in retort cars to cool for 24 hours before being labelled, boxed and sent far and wide, England being a key destination.

A disastrous crank was thrown into the smooth sailing of the bustling fishing village when in 1913 the Hell’s Gate crisis occurred. During railroad construction a blast of dynamite collapsed a huge amount of rubble into the Fraser River blocking salmon destined to thrash upriver to lay their eggs. With the four-year spawning cycle of salmon, by 1917 the ready supply of salmon to feed the cannery production lines ended, necessitating more distant sourcing.

Salmon canning ceased in the 1930’s, but the plant still operated as a herring reduction plant producing fish meal and oil products until 1979. It was declared a heritage site in 1984, which began ten years of restoration, its museum doors opening to the public in 1994. In 1942 the Murakami family were among those wrongfully forced out of their homes and livelihood and sent to an internment camp. In 1946 they joined their oldest daughter in Alberta and remained there for the rest of their days; Mr. Murakami passed on in 1968 and Mrs. Murakami in 2002 at the age of 104. Two of their children came back to B.C., and it was their son George who assisted in recreating the house he grew up in and the boats his father built.

As we sat at an outdoor café at day’s end, I thought of the village’s early inhabitants relishing the same stunning beauty of the sun reflection on shimmering waters and the amber hue of distant mountains. The historic sites left us filled with admiration for these men and women who toiled and raised families through abundant and lean times, their rhythm of life tightly bound to Steveston’s Cannery Row.

Photos by Irene Butler
1. Britannia Shipyard
2. Mr. & Mrs. Murakami
3. Murakami Home
4. Men’s Bunkhouse
5. Butcher’s Iron Chink
6. Slime Removal Station
7. Clank-filling Machine

For more information:
Steveston Village in Richmond, B.C. is a great weekend get-a-way for couples or the whole family with historic sites, boutique and gift shops, fine seafood & ethnic restaurants, bike rentals, cruise boats, waterfront boardwalk, and a wide variety of Richmond accommodations.
www.tourismrichmond.com
www.richmond.ca/britannia
www.pc.gc.ca/gulfofgeorgiacannery

Circling British Columbia’s West Coast Splendour

by Margaret Deefholts

Wondering where you’d like to spend your summer vacation this year? Try B.C.’s scenic coastal attractions. Enjoy a leisurely family trip, cuddle up in romantic hideaways with your sweetheart, or explore the highways and by-ways in the company of a good friend.

If you have a week, the B.C. Ferries’ CirclePac excursion is a fun sail ‘n drive trip. Catch a ferry from Tsawwassen (Delta) to Swartz Bay (Victoria) or to Duke Point (Nanaimo). Drive Vancouver Island’s east coast up to Comox, ride the ferry over to Powell River, then take the coastal route to Saltery Bay and sail to Earl’s Cove. Wheel along the Sunshine Coast as you head to Gibsons where the Langdale ferry will bring you back to Horseshoe Bay terminal in West Vancouver.

Glide by islands with holiday homes tucked between evergreen forests, watch triangular-sailed boats flit past, click photos of snow-capped peaks glimmering against the sky, and depending on the season, enjoy the thrill of seeing killer whales making their way through the channels.

A few highlights en route:

Victoria: B.C.’s capital city is charming. Stroll the waterfront, browse the shops on Government Street. Plan a picnic in Beacon Hill Park. Explore the mysterious Orient on a guided tour through Chinatown. Above all don’t miss this year’s special exhibition at The Royal B.C. Museum: on loan from the British Museum is a collection of 300 rare artefacts spanning 1.5 million years of human history. And, of course, no visit to Victoria is complete without a trip to the world-famous Butchart Gardens in all their summer glory.
Cowichan Valley: Drive north along the scenic Malahat along Highway 1. The Cowichan Valley is now a major wine producing area on Vancouver Island so be sure to sign up for a wine-sampling tour. Enjoy fresh farm produce at restaurants that pride themselves on using locally grown organic fruit, vegetables and herbs.
Duncan: Sign up for a tour at the Quw’utsun Cultural Centre. Wilson Jr., a Cowichan Band elder, and accomplished story-teller spins intriguing legends, tales and folklore.
Enjoy a nostalgia trip through history at the B.C. Forest Museum on Highway 1. Kids of all ages get a kick out of riding the train as it clatters merrily along a narrow gauge line through wooded glades, over wooden trestles and past Somenos Lake. If you’re lucky you’ll catch a glimpse of their resident brown owl snoozing in the trees. Peek into vintage logging bunkhouses and linger in front of archival photographs in the Museum.
Chemainus is renowned for its murals – a vast outdoor art gallery with its heritage proudly emblazoned on the walls of its streets, restaurants and commercial buildings. Take in a live performance of the musical Oklahoma! at the elegant Chemainus Theatre.
Nanaimo: Stroll the Waterfront Walkway and pop into the newly renovated Museum where the first Nanaimo Bathtub Race bathtub is on display. The town’s old neighbourhood on Fitzwilliam Street is picture postcard pretty: pedestrian cobbled streets flanked by art stores, curios, crafts, books, and perfumed boutiques. Don’t leave town without munching on a Nanaimo Bar.
Parksville & Qualicum: Immerse yourself in a sensuous environment of scented oils, thermal wraps and soothing rubs with a spa experience at The Grotto (Tigh Na Mara Resort) and then indulge in a epicurean meal at their Treetops Tapas Restaurant. Expensive but worth every cent.
Laze under an umbrella on the wide sands at Rathtrevor and Qualicum beaches, where the water in summer is sometimes a balmy 20oC. Bike or hike the Parkway Trailway, try spelunking at Horne Lake Caves (kids will love this) or simply go fishin’.
Mid Island: If the outdoors is your thing, take in the rugged scenery of Englishmen’s River and Little Qualicum Falls, or do a leisurely stroll through MacMillan Bloedel’s Cathedral Grove. Click your camera at the goats on the roof at Coombs Old Country Market, and buy trinkets or curios at the adjoining funky arts and craft shops
Don’t miss: The World Parrot Refuge in Coombs with over 700 parrots, cockatoos and mackaws. It’s more than just a huge aviary – it’s a place where orphaned or previously abandoned birds joyously socialize with each other (at the top of their voices!) and adore meeting visitors. A moving and unforgettable experience. [EDITOR’S NOTE: The Parrot Refuge in Coombs closed after its owner passed away.]
Comox: A small town with quiet charm. Explore the town’s heritage on a self-guided walking tour. Best kept secret? The captivating Filberg Heritage Lodge and Park with its rustic lodge, nine acres of flowering shrubs, west coast cedars – and resident deer that love posing for pictures.
En route. The scenery along the forty-minute B.C. Ferries crossing from Saltery Bay to Earl’s Cove, is sheer West Coast panorama: a backdrop of magnificent snow-peaked mountains, with inlets threading between islands that lie fold upon fold, dark green in the foreground and purple or pale blue silhouettes in the distance. The route winds past fish farms and the occasional rustic cabin half hidden in stands of evergreens.
The Sunshine Coast is an enchantment of dappled forest glades, hiking trails, hidden coves and small communities that fringe the coastline. It is also home to an extraordinary range of handicrafts ranging from blown glass, crystal ornaments, wood carvings, enamel ware, pottery, oil and water colour paintings, woven rugs and shawls, and much more! Follow the Purple Banner signs that indicate that an artist’s studio is open to visitors. A mere sampling: Fibreworks Studio & Gallery (housed in a yurt!) near Madeira Park, Blue Dot Art Studio (south of Sechelt), Cutting Edge Stained Glass (Roberts Creek), Fire & Ash Studio (stoneware/porcelain)

Gibsons Landing: The town catapulted into fame with the TV Series The Beachcomers, and Molly’s Reach restaurant is still an iconic landmark in Lower Gibsons. Several boutiques and art galleries line Marine Drive (Lower Gibsons) including the curiously named Waltzing Whippet, as well as elegant galleries such as the Spirit of Place and Gift of the Eagle. The town has a cornucopia of trendy little restaurants, among them Smitty’s Oyster House where on a summer evening, residents and visitors alike vie to sit elbow-to-elbow at their 27-ft spruce dockside table, while tucking into fresh oysters, mussels, clams and prawns.

Cindy Buis of Artworks Tours loves nothing better than to introduce visitors to the best of Gibsons Landing in a walking tours; she spins anecdotal tales about historical characters and landmarks and drops by art galleries, studios and museums.

IF YOU GO:

B.C. Ferries have launched their swanky new Super Cs vessels: The Coastal Renaissance The Coastal Inspiration, and The Coastal Celebration. Their CirclePac ticket is priced at an affordable level of just under $200 which includes a car, two passengers and two kids under 11 years and is valid for 30 days. www.bcferries.com/travel_planning/circlepac/

Where to Stay:

Favourite picks In Victoria: Sheer luxury and a stunning view of the harbour is yours at Laurel Point Inn, 680 Montreal Street. An easy walk to downtown Victoria. Their award winning chef presides over The Aura restaurant. www.laurelpoint.com/

The Magnolia Hotel & Spa is an elegant boutique hotel in the heart of the city. www.magnoliahotel.com/

Abigails combines old world appeal and comfort in their boutique B&B. www.abigailshotel.com

The Marco Polo, a small but charming boutique B&B is sequestered in the tranquil Rocklands area of Victoria. Their gourmet breakfast menu is fit for royalty.

Also recommended is Spinnakers Gastro-BrewPub and Guest Houses www.spinnakers.com/

Wineries: Merridale Ciderworks at Cobble Hill – self guided tours and La Pommeraie Bistro www.merridalecider.com

Silverside Farm & Winery, Cobble Hill: Try their blueberry, raspberry and blackberry wines. Call ahead 250-743-9149

Glenterra Vineyards, Cobble Hill www.glenterravineyarads.com

Cherry Point Vineyards and Bistro, Cobble Hill www.cherrypointvineyards.com

In Chemainus: Where to Stay:

The Best Western Chemainus Festival Inn offers comfortable suites with kitchen facilities within easy driving distance of the town centre. A hearty Continental breakfast is included in their room rates. www.festivalinn.ca/

About Chemainus:

www.muraltown.com/ There are several restaurants (dine in or take out) in Chemainus with prices to suit every wallet. In Nanaimo:

Attractions:

The Nanaimo Historic Bastion Museum: www.nanaimomuseum.com/bastionpage.htm

The charming old city quarter shopping area: www.oldcityquarter.com/

The newly renovated Nanaimo Museum is the pride of the town: www.nanaimomuseum.ca/index.html

In Parksville/Qualicum

Where to stay:

Two resort hotels you’ll never want to check out of: Sunrise Ridge Waterfront Resort:

A newly developed resort on 10.2 acres within walking distance of the beach. Luxury two bedroom suites with fully appointed kitchen and dining area, quality linen, kitchen ware and chinaware also boasts an independent one-bedroom suite for friends or family that accompany you. www.sunriseridge.ca/

Tigh Na Mara Resort (almost adjacent to Sunrise Ridge Resort) has a well-deserved reputation for stylish opulence.
www.tigh-na-mara.com/index.htm
The Grotto Spa: www.grottospa.com/
Tree Top Tapas and Grill: www.tigh-na-mara.com/treetop.htm Attractions – Mid Island: Old Country Market (goats on the roof) at Coombs: www.oldcountrymarket.com/
The Amazing World Parrot Refuge: worldparrotrefuge.org/
MacMillan Provincial Park (Cathedral Grove): www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/macmillan/

Courtenay/Comox

Where to stay:

Old House Village Hotel & Spa bills itself as a luxury boutique hotel, but offers four-star accommodation with average facilities. Their one-bedroom suites include a pull out sofa-bed and a functional kitchen area. Attractions – Courtenay/Comox: See www.discovercomoxvalley.com/culture/heritage-experience.htm
The charming Filberg Lodge estate: www.filberg.com/

The Sunshine Coast:

Where to Stay:

The Painted Boat Resort Spa and Marina in Madeira Park offer visitors suites that are the ultimate in luxury. Every last detail, from the exquisite interior décor to the furnishings and deluxe kitchen facilities, has been chosen to please the eye and delight the heart. Set in tranquil wooded surroundings with spectacular views across the waterfront, this is an idyllic retreat for romantic couples of all ages. www.crmr.com/paintedboat

For a list of B&Bs and cottages and myriads of stellar attractions along the Sunshine Coast:www.bbsunshinecoast.com

Where to eat: Savoury Bite Restaurant & Pub at Beach Gardens Marina, 7-74 Westminster Street, Powell River
Smitty’s Oyster House in Gibsons: www.smittysoysterhouse.com
Pebbles Restaurant, 5454 Trail Avenue, Sechelt (try their signature clam chowder) Sunshine Coast Art Galleries: Copper Sky Gallery, Madeira Park: www.earthlycreatures.ca
Amazon Earth Works, Halfmoon Bay: www.amazonearthworks.com
Blue Dot Studio, Sechelt: www.bluedotartstudio.com
Fibreworks Studio (in a yurt) www.gunboatbaylodge.com/fibreworks.html
Spirit of Place Gallery, Gibsons: www.barryhaynes.com
Westwind Fine Art Gallery, Gibsons: www.westwindgallery.net Interested in a historical tour of Gibsons Landing? Contact Cindy Buis of Artworks Tours & Framing, 441 Marine Drive, Gibsons Landing at 604-886-1250

PHOTOGRAPHS AND CUTLINES:

1. Riding the Ferry en-route to Nanaimo
2. Chemainus Mural
3. Wendy, owner of World Parrot Refuge in Coombs with one of her lodgers
4. Incomparable B.C. West Coast scenery
5. Cutting Edge Stained Glass studio version of Klimpt painting
6. Yvonne Stowell, owner of Fibre Works Studio & Art Gallery, Madeira Park, Sunshine Coast
7. The view framed by my bedroom window at the Painted Boat Resort Spa and Marina.
8. Cindy Buis of Art Works Tours and Framing

Relaxing at the Painted Boat Resort

by Darlene Foster

Pender Harbour is a great place to visit by boat and we have always enjoyed the pleasant marinas and boating community. At one time we had an unplanned, extended stay as we awaited a part for our disabled boat and decided it was a great place to be “stuck” for awhile. On this occasion we were looking forward to seeing this coastal community from land. We chose our visit during a recent Thanksgiving weekend after having won an overnight stay at The Painted Boat Resort. With threatening clouds overhead, it didn’t appear that my husband and I would have any sunshine though for this trip to the beautiful Sunshine Coast of British Columbia.

After a leisurely forty-five minute drive up the coast from the Langdale Ferry, we easily found the exquisite resort set amongst the towering fir trees. The air smelt fresh from the shower that had just passed through and the incredible quiet made us wonder if we were the only people there.

Our spacious, comfortable, luxury villa overlooked the tranquil marina. We sat on our balcony enjoying a cup of tea and observed a majestic heron as he stood on the dock like a sentinel guarding the flotilla. The clouds floated away leaving a pleasant evening so we took a leisurely stroll around the well landscaped grounds and inhaled the wholesome, coastal mountain air. It took some getting used to the unfamiliar silence and stillness. Barely a ripple on the water, the boats rested for the night under the watchful eye of the heron who seldom changed position. Dinner at The Restaurant at the Painted Boat was exquisite, both in quality and service. A wonderful Thanksgiving treat made even better by the fact that I didn’t have to cook! After a glass of wine by the fireplace and a steep in the huge soaker tub, I slept like a hibernating bear.

The Painted Boat Resort has an infinity edge pool, a hot tub with a fabulous view of the harbour with its many inlets and a luxury spa with a relaxation patio and waterfall. Many hours could be whiled away at this facility watching the various boats come and go and the eagles soar overhead, while enjoying a soothing massage, facial or pedicure. A few children splashed in the pool and, although it looked inviting, I decided it was too cool outside for me to brave and would stick to my soaker tub for water activity.

We woke up to an enchanting misty morning with the shrouded boats barely visible except for their tall masts poking out from the haze. Reading on the deck, sipping tea and feeling well rested, we were in no hurry to leave. We eventually enjoyed a late breakfast at The Copper Sky Gallery and Café in nearby Madeira Park village where I met Cindy, the friendly owner and a talented artist. While my husband enjoyed his fair trade coffee and homemade blackberry muffin, I did some Christmas shopping. Across the street I met Dale, owner of Blue Waters Books, a delightful book store well stocked with local authors and best sellers. Once again, I was made to feel most welcome, had a nice chat and found a few more Christmas gifts for the book lovers on my list, being sure to pick up a book for myself as well.

It was refreshing to spend time in a small community where you are made to feel like special guests instead of intruding strangers. People actually smiled as we passed them on the street. Perhaps that is why it is called the sunshine coast, not so much because of the weather, but more because of the sunny dispositions of the inhabitants.

We discovered there was something for everyone in the surrounding area; numerous fishing charters, hiking trails, boat rentals and golf courses. The area is well known for its community of artists and there were many galleries and studios where you could visit with the artisans, watch them at their craft and possibly come away with a unique memento of your stay. There happened to be a gallery tour the weekend we were visiting, and since I am not much for sporting activities, I made sure to visit a number of places on the list. A handcrafted, copper, heron pin seemed the perfect item for me.

We headed back to the ferry later that afternoon just as the clouds released torrents of rain they had been saving up. We may not have got any sun but the rain kindly held off until we left for home.

The Painted Boat Resort is an ideal spot for those, like myself, who wish to escape the fast pace of the city but don’t enjoy camping. It proved to be a great get-away in a perfect setting. We had a fabulous time and look forward to returning soon to see if that heron is still standing guard.

To learn more about the Painted Boat www.paintedboat.comand the Sunshine Coast www.sunshinecoastcanada.com

About the author:

Darlene Foster
www.darlenefoster.ca

Whistling Along the Rails on the Whistler Mountaineer

by Margaret Deefholts

Two things never cease to delight me: firstly, the splendour of our British Columbia scenery, and secondly, the exhilaration of train travel. Today, I’m about to enjoy both on a journey aboard the Whistler Mountaineer.It is a surprisingly chilly and pale July morning, but that does nothing to dampen the anticipation of the crowd gathered at the railway station in North Vancouver. Kids jump up and down gleefully, and parents and grandparents help themselves to complimentary coffee while awaiting the “All Aboard” call.

I settle into my seat in the Coast Classic coach, stretch my legs with a sigh of satisfaction—so different from the cramped environs of an aircraft—while our hostess, Jill, gives us a run-down about what lies ahead on our trip. She kindles just the right spark of curiosity without giving too much away.

I browse through the souvenir leaflet in the front seat pocket, with its map of familiar landmarks—Porteau Cove, Howe Sound and Squamish. I’m interested to learn that back in 1912, the Pacific Great Eastern railway built the railway line with the original intention of connecting Vancouver to Prince George. It ran into all kinds of financial roadblocks (or more correctly, perhaps, “railroad” blocks!) and was beset by political scandal, so its growth was sporadic and slow. Eventually, in 1956, with the increasing demand for lumber and coal, the entire track was completed. Today, the Rocky Mountaineer follows this historic passage through the Caribou on its Fraser Discovery Route.

I look up to hear Jill announce that we will shortly be leaving the station, and that we should be on the watch for our first wildlife sighting to the right of the train. We jolt into movement and passengers rush to the windows, cameras at the ready. There is a ripple of amusement, but you’ll have to find out why for yourself!

We glide through the affluent residential neighbourhoods of West Vancouver, Ambleside and the sea wall. Past gardens ablaze with geraniums, dahlias, clematis and honeysuckle, and hiking paths running through wooded glades. People stop to wave at the train, and a little girl urged on by her mum, blows us a kiss.

Then we dive into a long tunnel and emerge at Horseshoe Bay, and the rim of Howe Sound. Under a pastel-grey sky the water is a sheen of silver, and Bowen Island lies humped against ridges of fishbone clouds. We shoulder our way past Britannia Beach, and the B.C. Museum of Mining — once the largest copper mine in the British Empire. Although it closed in 1974, visitors today are offered mine tours through the building which, Jill tells us, has a total of 1,200 windows with 18,792 panes, almost all of which have been recently restored at a cost of about $500,000.

For the next forty minutes or more, the now emerald-green glacial waters of Howe Sound stretch to distant mountains, their silhouettes rising fold against fold on the horizon. Then, as we near the head of the Sound, the Squamish Chief, rears against the sky to our right. This 700-metre-high hulk of uncompromising rock face challenges hundreds of intrepid rock climbers each year, and sure enough, as I crane to look upwards, there are two tiny Spiderman types inching their way to the top.

Brackendale is next on our route, and although its most famous inhabitants—about 3,000 bald eagles—aren’t in residence today, they will be back in the fall and winter when spawning salmon seethe up the Cheakamus River. We plunge into wooded groves, and I am enchanted by a profusion of wild ferns, lupins, foxgloves, cheeky daisies and fronds of white lacy blooms.

And then comes the big “Aaaah!” of the journey—the spectacular Cheakamus Canyon. For travellers on the Whistler Mountaineer, this sight alone is worth the price of admission. We run along its lip, as the river boils and foams, far, far below us, forcing its way through narrow channels and erupting around bends.

The open windows of the Heritage Observation Car are jammed with people and whether they are German, Punjabi or Japanese, their gasps of awe speak a universal language. As the train slows to a crawl, I lean out of the window and grab a shot of the locomotive turning on a curve as it crosses the first trestle bridge. I surrender my spot to another photographer, who hisses a satisfied “Yessss!” as he looks at the result in his digital viewfinder.

As we approach Brandywine Falls, the train slows again to afford us a fleeting glimpse of its waters spilling over a ridge of rock below us. The name resulted from a bet between a two railway surveyors, as to the height of the falls. One of them bet a bottle of brandy, the other a bottle of wine.

At Whistler, the chill of the morning has given way to brilliant sunshine and the village is filled with holiday crowds: teens on bikes, young couples hand in hand, and families with toddlers in tow.

There can be no more satisfying way to conclude my day on the Whistler Mountaineer than to be thoroughly indulged in the luxury of the Glacier Dome coach. No sooner do we pull out of Whistler on our return trip, than our gracious hostess, Dana, places a tray complete with linen, silverware and crockery in front of me.

I nibble on dainty tea sandwiches—salmon, watercress and ham. This is followed by a serving of freshly baked, gossamer-light scones, accompanied by whipped Devonshire cream and strawberry jam. And then, as a finale, a selection of exquisite French pastries, with a cuppa fragrant Earl Grey tea.

Trays cleared away, Dana asks what I’d like to drink. A pinot Blanc eases the last leg of my journey home. It is classy and smooth. Not unlike the Whistler Mountaineer.

About the author:

Margaret Deefholts is a Canadian author, and much travelled freelance travel writer/photographer. Visit her website at www.margaretdeefholts.com

If you go:

The Whistler Mountaineer runs daily from May 1st to October 16th departing at 8.30 am and returning by 5.30 pm. with a 90-minute break in Whistler village. For the convenience of guests, a complimentary motor coach service operates from Vancouver downtown hotels to the Rocky Mountaineer North Vancouver station and back. For further information on services, timings and prices, go to http://www.whistlermountaineer.com Or phone 1-888-687-7245

The photos:
1: Waiting at the station for the “All Aboard”. Margaret Deefholts photo.
2: The grandeur of the Cheakamus Canyon. Rocky Mountaineer Vacations photo.
3: Whistler, overlooking the village to the mountain backdrop. Margaret Deefholts photo.

Romancing the West Coast Waves in Tofino, BC

Story and Photos by Julia Davis

The tangerine sun begins its daily departure. To our left looms a thick backdrop of old growth evergreens. To our right, clear waves tumble at our feet. Dusk settles over smooth charcoal coloured sand as we walk, hands clutched, we’re awed by the breathtaking view. Tofino. It’s no ordinary place.

For the next three days we’ll call this wild wonderful coast our home. Nestled in the Pacific Rim rain forests of Vancouver Island, there is no better town to spend our precious time.

We arrive at our destination, Pacific Sands Beach Resort where one of the Villas, a relaxing dream, peers out over the pristine beauty of Cox Bay. Hungry as we are, the thought of leaving our delicious space is unpalatable. Mark Wrigley, a personal gourmet chef of the reputable Clayoquot Cuisine, cooks up a superb three-course meal full of delicate tastes and visual poetry, while our evening tapers in the firelight.

We wake to soft morning light on our pillows; our tired eyes take in the early surf. With a slow brewing enthusiasm we roll from our haven ready for our North-West adventure, 27 nautical miles from our post.

From Breakers Café, a Tofino classic, we devour our breakfasts, grab boxed lunches to go and reach ‘Jamie’s Whaling Station’, a staple waterfront operation providing safe and friendly voyage to the infamous Hot Springs Cove. Our 35 foot cabin cruiser, “Pacific Springs”, kicks off the dock, our eyes wide and hopeful for an early-season sighting of the migrating Grey or Killer whales. Although none are witnessed, the journey through Clayoquot Sound is smooth and beautiful.

An hour passes and we’re dropped on the dock at the stunning Maquinna Provincial Park. Our captain provides us with valuable trek tips and informs us of our four p.m. return time. “The hike feels longer on the way back!” he shouts over a rumbling engine. “If you miss your plane, we’ll pick ya up tomorrow!”

Under a damp canopy of evergreens we smile and wave adieu. Shards of light filter onto the slippery wooden walk-ways which guide our 1.2 kilometer hike. An awe-filled half hour of aromatic air and natural glory and we’ve touched our destination.

Beyond a boulder-filled terrain the nearest pool collects liquid gifts from a forty degree waterfall. Its spray hits my skin like lava as I float, arms tangled around Cal’s waist. The cold ocean exhales its breath, cooling the five weathered rock pools, which leak into the sea.

“Let’s move here!” I say to Cal in a calm excitement, as we climb barefoot up the sheltering rock face to picnic with a view. We’ve become perfect prunes, pampered in this natural paradise!

Hot Springs Cove is so captivating we almost miss our flight, and although jelly-legged and breathless after the race back, we make it just in time for our Tofino Air take off.
This is one ride we wouldn’t want to miss.

Below us sits a massive and thriving ecosystem where mountains look like molehills and stretch on for what seems like forever. We bear witness to a rich and curvaceous coastline from new heights, this visual masterpiece permanently changing our perspective of the west coast. We arrive back at our ‘palace’ after a glorious day, ready to indulge our palates with warm red wine and Gruyere held captive over an open flame.

“Good morning,” Cal whispers, as we wake for our final and most exhilarating day. Surfing is unlike any sport. Step foot in the Pacific and you’ll understand. White water swirls around our raven rubber ankles as we watch the wild untamed swell.

Our instructor, Sepp Bruwhiler, number one surfer in Canada and co-founder of the West Side Surf School, evokes a calm intensity around the ocean. I imagine that growing up in the premiere Canadian surf spot, home to thirty foot winter storm waves, would instill wisdom and respect. It’s certainly something Bruwhiler conveys throughout our lesson. “The most dangerous thing out there is never the ocean,” he states, crouched down and marking safety instructions in the sand, “it’s your board”.

The midday sun dances on the open ocean, the shiny peak of each wave terrifying and tremendous at the same time.

“I’m the rookie,” I mention to our instructor, as Cal, a resident Californian surfer catches a couple of waves. Moments pass and when the break finally devours my board, I follow it like a new born pup on a leash.

After three hours of bobbing like buoys on an undulating ocean we head back to shore content and exhausted, then collapse on the sand where the lavish landscape meets the striking seascape.

Tofino. It’s no ordinary place

About the author:

Julia Davis is a freelance travel writer/phographer who makes her home in Vancouver B.C., on Canada’s West Coast.

The photos:
Top: Cal views the ocean on a typical quiet morning in Tofino.
Next: Tofino Air offered us a great view of the local coastline.
Next: Author Julia and friend Cal prepare for a day of surf boarding.

If you go…
Pacific Sands
www.pacificsands.com
Jamie’s Whaling Station
www.jamies.com
West Side Surf School
www.westsidesurfschool.com
Clayoquot Cuisine – Mark Wrigley
www.clayoquotcuisine.com
BC Ferries
www.bcferries.com

Gravity Defying Little Lake Manitou

by Irene Butler

The author floating in Manitou springs resort pool — Manitou Springs Resort

Day trips from Regina or from Saskatoon to Little Manitou Lake (located between these two Saskatchewan cities) afford a water experience not found elsewhere on the North American continent.

My husband Rick and I float about like astronauts in outer space in the pools of Manitou Springs Resort & Spa. Our ear-to-ear grins are brought on by the sheer frivolity of weightlessness. We cannot sink! The waters, piped in from Little Lake Manitou, have an astounding mineral content found only in a few other places in the world – Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic and Israel’s Dead Sea.

We move between the pool sections in varying depths and ranging in temperatures from a pleasant 34˚C (93˚F) to toasty 39˚C (103˚F). My favourite maneuver is to sit as if in a lazy-boy chair and bob like a cork without moving a muscle. A lady lying flat on her back reading a newspaper is comical.

All this fun and good for you too! Oral history handed down by First Nation tribes claim that the waters healed the sick during a small pox scourge in 1837. Their medicine men believed the miraculous powers to be a gift from Manitou, the Great Spirit. Scientific studies reveal phenomenally high levels of magnesium, potassium and calcium, promoting skin health, anti-allergen properties and other salubrious benefits. The spa offers a full range of therapeutic remedies and aesthetic services utilizing the lake’s mineral salts.

Eons ago this lake was carved out by glaciers into a dish-shaped basin. Spring fed with no surface drainage other than evaporation over the millennia resulted in the heavy mineral content, giving the water its magical buoyancy and its light bronze hue.

During the 1920s and ’30s Manitou Beach was a happening place. Watrous, only minutes away, was a major stop on the Canadian National Railway line across the country, with special trains running from major prairie cities. During the summers passengers spilled out of the rail cars to waiting taxi shuttles to Manitou. Others came by car maxing out the available parking. As many as 125,000 vacationers enjoyed the lake and spa pools, intermixed with shopping, dining (and yes, brothels and bootleg whiskey).

Between dips in the pool we soak up the village atmosphere, stopping at neat coffee shops and eateries along the lakeshore. The strains of a live orchestra have us gliding like “So You Think You Can Dance” competitors around the 5,000 sq ft floor of Danceland. Playing a round at the Manitou Beach Golf Club or going to the Drive-In Theatre are handy to the resort.

We would love to be here during the fall migration to witness 50,000 Sandhill Cranes and 450,000 geese, plus many other bird species gather at the nearby Last Mountain Lake National Sanctuary. This awesome spectacle repeats itself in the spring.

Often called Canada’s Dead Sea, Little Lake Manitou, in the midst of wheat fields, grain elevators and under a canopy of endless prairie sky is an anomaly – and a wonderful one at that. Our resort stay leaves us rejuvenated and our mood as buoyant as the waters.

More information:

Manitou Springs Resort & Mineral Spa
102 Rooms/Convention Centre/Esthetic & European Spa Services
manitousprings@sasktel.net
Toll-free: 1-800-667-7672 Phone: (306) 946-2233 Fax: (306) 946-2554
Box 610, Watrous, SK, Canada S0K 4T0

Mineral Properties of Lake Manitou Water in Grams/Gallon
Magnesium Sulphate 308.38
Magnesium Bicarbonate 63.42
Sodium Sulfate 50.92
Potassium Sulphate 116.62
Sodium Chloride 1405.60
Calcium Sulphate 104.96
Oxide of Iron & Aluminum 0.28
Silica 0.69

The Legend of Manitou Beach
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About the author:

Irene Butler is an award winning travel writer and author of “Trekking the Globe with Mostly Gentle Footsteps” now on Kindle. She and her photographer husband Rick explore the world for six months of every year. Find out where these Globaltrekkers have been!

Photo Credit: Rick Butler