Canada Travel Stories

Exploring Bowen Island: A Short Ferry Ride from Vancouver

Bowen Island ferry

Bowen Island wasn’t on our list of must-see places, but our cousin Tim wouldn’t stop talking about it. He had been there a few weeks earlier and said it was the perfect escape from the city. His enthusiasm convinced us to plan a trip, even though we didn’t know much about what to expect. On a sunny Saturday morning, we caught the ferry from Vancouver to see this island. The day promised adventure, relaxation, and some unforgettable memories.

A Morning Ferry Ride with a View

A small ferry boat with a Canadian flag docked in Vancouver’s harbor, with high-rise buildings in the background. — The scenic ferry ride from Vancouver sets the tone for a peaceful escape to Bowen Island.

The ferry ride from Vancouver felt like the start of a small adventure. We boarded at Horseshoe Bay, where the salty sea breeze and the ferry engines’ hum created excitement.

The crossing only took 20 minutes, but those 20 minutes were filled with beautiful views. The sparkling water stretched out endlessly as the city skyline faded behind us. A few small islands dotted the horizon, and snow-capped mountains framed the scene.

We stood on the deck, enjoying the crisp morning air and watching the seagulls soar above us. Tim started chatting with a couple who were taking their dog to Bowen for the weekend. They suggested we visit Killarney Lake and gave us tips on how to find the trailhead.

First Impressions of Snug Cove

Arriving at Snug Cove felt like stepping into another world. The main street was small but lively, with rows of colorful shops and cafés welcoming visitors. Unlike the bustling energy of Vancouver, this place felt calm and unhurried.

Tim pointed out a little café with outdoor seating, and we decided to start our day there. The barista greeted us warmly and shared some local recommendations while making our coffee. She suggested we try hiking the Killarney Lake Loop and told us about a nearby artisan market happening later in the day.

With steaming cups in hand, we wandered down the street and discovered a quirky bookstore. Inside, shelves overflowed with secondhand books, old postcards, and maps. Tim found a photography book about the Pacific Northwest, and we joked about how he was already turning into a Bowen Island regular.

Hiking the Killarney Lake Loop

A tree-covered hiking trail with dappled sunlight and a lone hiker walking down the path. — The Killarney Lake Loop offers a serene hiking experience surrounded by lush greenery and quiet forest paths.

The hike to Killarney Lake began a short distance from Snug Cove. The trailhead was easy to find, and the path was well-marked, making it perfect for beginners like us.

The first stretch of the trail led us through a dense forest. The trees were tall and old, their branches forming a canopy that let in dappled sunlight. The ground was soft underfoot, covered in fallen leaves and moss. We passed a group of cyclists on the trail and exchanged friendly hellos.

Halfway to the lake, we came across a small wooden bridge spanning a bubbling creek. Tim insisted on taking photos, crouching low to get just the right angle of the water flowing over the rocks. While he fiddled with his camera, we spotted a raccoon darting across the trail ahead of us.

When we finally reached the lake, we stopped in our tracks. Killarney Lake was stunningly quiet, its surface perfectly still except for the occasional ripple caused by the wind. The surrounding trees reflected in the water like a mirror. A couple of kayakers paddled along the far shore, their movements slow and deliberate.

We found a spot on a fallen log and sat for a while, just soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Tim started snapping more photos, but we simply enjoyed the sound of the breeze rustling the leaves.

Looking for More Outdoor Adventures?

While Bowen Island offered plenty of beauty above ground, we couldn’t help but think about the Horne Lake Caves over Vancouver Island. These caves are great for those craving more exploration and natural wonder. It’s incredible how much the region offers, from serene lakes to underground marvels waiting to be discovered.

We found a spot on a fallen log and sat for a while, just soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Tim started snapping more photos, but we simply enjoyed the sound of the breeze rustling the leaves.

Thinking About Making Vancouver Home?

As we soaked in the peaceful atmosphere of Bowen Island, it struck us how close this serene retreat is to Vancouver. We started planning a move here since it’s easy to see why so many people choose Vancouver for its blend of city life and natural beauty. When moving to Vancouver from Ottawa, hiring movers lets us focus on exploring our new surroundings. With places like Bowen Island just a short ferry ride away, settling into Vancouver means endless opportunities for outdoor adventures.

A Delicious Lunch by the Marina

After the hike, we headed back to Snug Cove, ready for a hearty lunch. A small café near the marina caught our eye, and we grabbed a table on the patio overlooking the water.

Tim ordered fish and chips while we opted for a veggie sandwich made with fresh, local greens. Everything tasted amazing, and we joked that food always tastes better after a long hike.

Our server struck up a conversation and gave us more tips for the day. She mentioned the artisan market happening nearby and suggested we visit Sandy Beach if we had time before catching the ferry back.

The Artisan Market Experience

The artisan market was a highlight of the afternoon. Set up in a park surrounded by tall trees, it was filled with colorful stalls and friendly vendors.

Each tent offered something unique, from handcrafted pottery to intricate jewelry and homemade preserves. One vendor had soaps made with lavender and wildflowers, while another sold hand-knit scarves in vibrant colors.

Tim bought a wooden box carved with a hummingbird design, saying it reminded him of the island’s calm energy. We picked up a jar of honey infused with lavender, perfect for sweetening tea on chilly evenings.

We noticed how close-knit the community felt as we walked through the market. Vendors greeted each other warmly, and visitors chatted like old friends. The sense of belonging was infectious.

Other Day Trip Ideas Nearby

Our visit to Bowen Island reminded us of how many unique experiences are just a short trip from Vancouver. Vancouver Island’s biggest swap meet is another great option for those who love exploring local events. Held in Victoria, it’s perfect for treasure hunters and anyone looking to discover unique finds. Pairing a visit to the swap meet with a stroll through Vancouver Island’s stunning landscapes makes for a memorable day trip or weekend getaway.

A Quiet Stroll Along Sandy Beach

A driftwood-covered sandy beach with calm waves and a dense forest lining the shore. — Sandy Beach is a perfect spot to unwind, where the forest meets the ocean for a tranquil coastal stroll.

With some time to spare before the ferry, we decided to visit Sandy Beach. The trail leading to the beach was short but scenic, taking us past wildflowers and berry bushes.

The beach itself was small and peaceful, with soft sand and smooth driftwood scattered along the shore. We kicked off our shoes and let the cool water lap at our feet. Tim climbed onto a large piece of driftwood and waved us over to join him. From there, we could see the ferry terminal in the distance and a few sailboats bobbing on the water. It was the perfect place to pause and reflect on our day.

The Ferry Ride Back to Vancouver

As the sun began to set, we returned to the ferry terminal. The ride back felt quieter, but it allowed us to process everything we had experienced.

We sat on the lower deck this time, watching the golden light dance on the water. Tim scrolled through the photos he had taken, already planning to share them with friends. We talked about the highlights of the day, from the calm waters of Killarney Lake to the bustling artisan market.

The ferry ride from Vancouver made the trip possible, but Bowen Island itself made the day unforgettable.

Exploring More of Vancouver

After a full day on Bowen Island, we found ourselves talking about other areas to explore in Vancouver. Tim mentioned how much he loved Denman Street, a vibrant neighborhood known for its diverse dining options and lively atmosphere. It’s the perfect spot to unwind after a day trip, whether you’re grabbing a quick bite or strolling past local shops. Bowen Island and places like Denman Street make Vancouver a city that seamlessly blends natural beauty with urban charm.

Why Bowen Island Is Worth Visiting

Bowen Island offers an easy escape that feels worlds away from the busy streets of Vancouver. The short ferry ride from Vancouver makes it ideal for a day trip or even a weekend getaway.

Hiking trails like Killarney Lake Loop provide stunning natural beauty, while the small-town charm of Snug Cove offers opportunities to connect with locals. Whether you enjoy outdoor adventures, browsing artisan goods, or simply relaxing by the water, Bowen Island has something for everyone.

Indigenous Culture and Heritage Sites to Visit Around Toronto

Toronto site

Often celebrated for its skyscrapers and bustling city life, Toronto holds deeper cultural layers that trace back to its Indigenous roots. As you explore the city’s landscapes, from the iconic Fort York to the serene paths of High Park, you uncover stories that predate modern Canada. Not far from the urban center, places like Quebec shine as jewels of Canadian heritage, yet Toronto offers its unique journey into the past. Each heritage site serves as a gateway to understanding the rich tapestry of cultures that have shaped this region. Join me as we explore some of the most engaging Indigenous culture and heritage sites to visit around Toronto, where history comes alive through stories, ceremonies, and the enduring wisdom of the first peoples of this land.

Fort York National Historic Site: Echoes of the Past

Stepping into Fort York National Historic Site is like walking through layers of Toronto’s past, where the echoes of history resonate with every step. On my last visit, I joined a guided tour led by a charismatic historian who brought the fort’s storied battles and strategic importance to life with vivid anecdotes. He pointed out bullet marks still visible on the old stone walls, making the past feel almost touchable.

Fort York is not just about military history. It also serves as a focal point for Indigenous heritage through various ceremonies and events. I was fortunate to attend a pow-wow here, an event where the vibrant colors, rhythmic drumming, and spirited dances deeply moved me. It was a powerful reminder of the site’s ongoing cultural significance.

For visitors, Fort York offers much more than a static museum experience. You can explore key features like the original barracks and restored buildings, participate in hands-on workshops, and even witness reenactments. During the summer, the fort comes alive with a series of events that are among the best summer events near Toronto, offering everything from music festivals to historical demonstrations.

Sites to Visit Around Toronto: The Indigenous Landscape at Evergreen Brick Works

Evergreen Brick Works isn’t just a transformed brick factory. It’s a vibrant canvas of Indigenous culture in Toronto. My visit there became particularly memorable during a workshop on Indigenous plants. An elder from the local community guided me through the sprawling gardens, each plant telling its story of traditional uses and significance. I learned how sweetgrass purifies spaces and how cedar serves as medicine.

As we strolled, the elder shared anecdotes about growing up with these plants, weaving personal life stories with botanical knowledge. This hands-on learning didn’t just enlighten me. It connected me to the land in a tangible way. Beyond the gardens, the site offers a variety of educational programs. I attended a pottery class using clay sourced from the area, echoing traditional crafting methods.

Evergreen Brick Works brings the Indigenous landscape to life, not through plaques and exhibits, but through the voices of those who know it best. Every visit offers new insights, with community members eager to share their heritage. From the practical uses of plants to the artistry in crafts, the site offers a profound glimpse into the enduring legacy of Indigenous cultures in Toronto.

High Park: More Than Just a Park

High Park, Toronto’s largest public park, is more than an expansive green space. My visit there took an unexpected turn when I joined a walking tour led by an Indigenous knowledge keeper. As we meandered through the wooded paths, the guide pointed out sites of historical significance I had previously walked past without a second thought. He shared tales from his childhood, connecting those stories to the landscape in a way that made the past feel present.

One memorable moment was standing atop a small hill that overlooked Grenadier Pond. Here, he explained, was a gathering place for local tribes, used long before the urban sprawl. This insight transformed my view of the park into a living, breathing history book. The tour also highlighted Indigenous-led activities available in the park, from seasonal ceremonies to educational workshops that are open to the public.

Like exploring Britannia Mine Museum, where history is palpable in the underground tunnels and machinery, High Park offers a deep dive into the Indigenous heritage pre-dating colonial structures. Each visit peeled back layers of Toronto’s natural and cultural evolution, making each step through High Park a discovery of its true essence beyond just its beauty.

The Native Canadian Centre of Toronto: A Living Community

The Native Canadian Centre of Toronto is a testament to the ongoing story of Indigenous peoples in the city and one of the most important sites to visit around Toronto. On my visit, I was immediately struck by the warmth and openness of the community. The center buzzed with activity. Artisans displayed their crafts, each piece a narrative of centuries-old traditions. I had the opportunity to attend an art exhibit where the stories behind the paintings and sculptures were as compelling as the art itself.

During a cultural performance, dancers in colorful regalia moved to the rhythm of drums, their steps telling stories of heritage and identity. It wasn’t just a performance. It was an invitation to witness the vitality of their culture. This experience was complemented by a workshop where visitors, including myself, learned traditional beading techniques. I felt a genuine connection when I sat among community members, threading beads together.

Each program at the Native Canadian Centre, from art exhibits to annual cultural events, is a bridge linking past and present, inviting visitors to become part of the community’s vibrant tapestry. Spending the day there wasn’t just educational. It was a heartwarming experience of engaging directly with a living, thriving culture.

Toronto Islands: Uncovering Hidden Histories

Visiting the Toronto Islands offered an unexpected journey into the hidden histories of this serene locale, where every corner held a story. On the islands, a guided tour led by an Indigenous historian transformed the landscape into a canvas of narratives, each spot enriched with tales from centuries past.

We started at the ferry docks, usually bustling with tourists but now quiet and contemplative as our guide recounted the islands’ evolution from fishing grounds to leisure retreats. The highlight was a stop at a lesser-known monument commemorating local tribes. Here, the guide shared legends of the islands interwoven with historical facts that painted a vivid picture of life before the skyscrapers.

The guide also pointed out natural landmarks that had served as traditional gathering spots, making the connection between land and culture palpable. This tour wasn’t just about sightseeing. It was about understanding these islands’ profound significance for the Indigenous people.

Each story shared, from the seasonal migrations to the impacts of urban development, deepened my appreciation for the islands as a getaway and a cultural heritage site. Just like wandering around historical Alberta, where history lives in both the wild landscapes and the museums, the Toronto Islands revealed their deep, often overlooked histories, making my visit there uniquely memorable.

A Journey Through Time and Culture in Toronto

Exploring the Indigenous culture and heritage sites to visit around Toronto turned out to be more than just a history lesson. Each destination, from the echoes of Fort York to the vibrant community at the Native Canadian Centre, offered a unique glimpse into the city’s rich and diverse past. My experiences, filled with personal stories and heartfelt connections, transformed these visits into unforgettable adventures. Whether participating in a traditional ceremony on the Toronto Islands or learning about Indigenous plants at Evergreen Brick Works, these moments made my trip truly memorable. Toronto’s hidden histories and living cultures invite you to discover a deeper, more meaningful side of the city, making it a perfect destination for your next holiday.

About the author:
Anika O’Brien is a passionate travel writer who deeply appreciates Indigenous culture and heritage. She loves exploring historical sites and sharing her vivid travel experiences. Her writing aims to connect readers with the rich stories and traditions of the places she visits.

Photo by Austin Laser

Wandering Around Historical Alberta

by Barb Rees

Drumheller, Donalda, Bruderheim, and Wainwright … What do they have in common? They are a few of the places and history in Alberta we discovered when we wandered around Alberta the summer of 2015. The theme was history.

Following #9 North through Irricana we headed through fields of sunshine/canola to the land of dinosaurs, Drumheller. At the junction for #9 East at Three Hills we dropped down into the Badlands where dinosaurs roamed 75 million years ago. The information center is dwarfed by the largest dinosaur in the world, a Tyrannosaurus rex at 25 m/82 ft. tall and 46m/151 ft long weighing in at 145,000 lbs. Helpful tourism staff found us a camping spot at ‘River Grove RV Park and Cabins’ with 160 sites. It’s a full service, well treed campground. “Wild West Adventure” is an evening tour on a hay wagon to a buffalo herd.

Next morning we made our way to the ‘Royal Tyrell Museum’ with 10 galleries and 40 dinosaur skeletons but when we saw long lines of school kids we decided a stroll along the 1.6 km. interpretive trail would be much quieter and our dogs could go for a walk too. We experienced the badlands in bloom, ground squirrels delicately sipping from cactus blooms, four kinds of sage, colored strata and more. Canada really is an exotic land in many diverse terrains.

We took the “Alberta Railway Excursions” from Stettler to Big Valley. Oh what a fun trip with entertainment, refreshments, history lessons from ‘Gabriel Dumont,’ prairie scenery and we even got robbed by gun toting horse-back riding robbers. Big Valley was the hub of southern Alberta in 1910. The CNR opened for service in 1911. While there visit the restored railway station, roundhouse interpretive centre, grain elevator and the McAlister Motors Museum to name a few sights. Make your way up the hill to the blue church. ARE offers theme excursions which include a meal.

The first weekend in August, “Métis Hivernant Days” celebrate the Métis culture for three days. ‘Hivernant’ means wintering place. The train pulls in Gabriel Dumont on board with Métis flag flying.

Stettler “Heart of Alberta” sits in the middle of rich ranch land and oil resources. The annual “Stettler Steel Wheel Stampede” in June was voted the best rodeo by competing cowboys. The “Town and Country Museum” is a historic village with 25 buildings. Surrounding Stettler are many parks: Rochon Sands Provincial Park, Pelican Point and Ol’McDonald’s Camp on Buffalo Lake, Big Knife Provincial Park on Battle River.

In the tiny village of Donalda you will find the world’s largest oil lamp rising 12m/42 ft above the badlands. Visit the collection of over 900 gorgeous oil lamps in the museum. Their claim to fame was the ‘Donalda Maid Butter,’ peak production in 1965 of 714,466 lbs. of butter. How much is that? You’d need to pile about 3,572 men weighing 200 lbs. each to make that amount. ‘Donalda Campground’ with 9 sites and power is located at the entrance to the village off #53.

Bypassing the villages of Forestburg and Hardistry we camped in Wainwright at the junction of Buffalo Trail-Highway 41 and Poundmaker Trail- Highway 14. Don’t the names bring to mind battles over land and herds of buffalo? Wainwright “Buffalo Capital of Canada” once had vast herds of Plains Bison (buffalo) that came near to extinction in the late 1800’s. The Canadian government created a ‘Buffalo National Park’ in Wainwright in 1907 until 1939. A giant buffalo statue guards the main street into town.

Battle River trestle bridge Wainright Alberta — Battle River trestle bridge

‘Battle River Trestle’ west of town (turn at the sign, go 7 km on well-marked gravel road) is a spectacular trestle opened in 1909 and still in use. It rises 195 ft. above Battle River and 2,775 ft. long.

There are many parks in the area including: Rochon Sands Provincial Park, Pelican Point & Ol’McDonalds Campground on Buffalo Lake, and Big Knife Provincial Park at Battle River.

We wandered to Vegreville for the world’s largest painted Pysanka/ Ukrainian Easter egg. Built like a giant jigsaw puzzle it contains 534 star patterns, 2208 equilateral triangles, and 3512 visible facets. It’s 25.7’ long, 18’ wide and stands 31’ tall.

Ukrainian culture is an important part of Alberta. We stopped at the ‘Ukrainian History Village’ on #16 east of Edmonton. It is so worth a few hours to wander back in time with people in period dress and character telling you stories of their era.

When I discovered in a tourism magazine that a meteorite landed in Bruderheim we made another jog in our route. A spectacular mural was painted on the side of city hall to commemorate the biggest meteorite in Canada landing in May 4, 1960. A piece of it is on loan from University of Alberta, displayed in a secure glass case in the fire hall. No human hands have touched it without gloves on. The black is from being burnt as it made its way through the atmosphere. Ask at city hall to see it.

Very helpful staff sent us on a trip to see the grotto called “Our Lady of Lourdes Shrine” at a cemetery. The “Skaro Shrine” was built in remembrance of the pioneers who built their first church in 1900.

Wandering Alberta’s back roads opened our minds to the history and beauty not normally promoted. Leave yourself plenty of time for impetuous detours. You will be pleasantly surprised at what you’ll find.

About the author:

Barb Rees is a photographer, speaker, and author of six RV Canada books from the working holidays her and husband Dave have made from coast to coast to coast of Canada. She presents at the RV Lifestyle Seminars in Kelowna annually. Her articles can be found at: www.suncruisermedia.com . Her books can be found at: www.write2dream.com

Story and photos copyright (c) Barb Rees

Lund Treasures or Dinner Rock Sunsets

by Barb Rees

The longest highway in the world starts in Lund, BC about 23 km. north of Powell River. In this bustling jump off point for the islands, Mile 0 marks the beginning of Highway 101 which ends 15,202 km later at the tip of Chile. Your day trip also starts here.

A tiny seaside village, Lund overflows with treasures. Here you can enjoy Nancy’s Bakery famous blackberry cinnamon buns on their patio watching a dazzling array of craft coming into the harbour. Across the other side of the bay, follow the boardwalk to the Boardwalk Café for an even more inclusive experience with the water world of Lund. A pail of prawns (when in season) or delicious fish and chips on the deck will have you breathing a sigh, “Aaaah, this is what I needed.” Above Nancy’s at Pollen Sweaters stroke silky rather than itchy wool garments.

In the historic Lund Hotel, at Tug-Ghum Gallery we love watching Deb work her magic carving rock into magnificent eagles, whales, otters, and seals. Her gallery brims with local art-work from glass star fish, wooden carvings, jewelry, and paintings to books. If you want to stay longer and try kayaking the Copeland Islands, SunLund By-The-Sea offers full service camping and you’re only a few steps away from all that Lund has to offer. More adventurous hikers can start the 180 km. Sunshine Coast Trail, 12 km north of Lund at Sarah Point. The trail ends at Saltery Bay.

A day trip or a longer camping trip to Lund is just what the doctor ordered for a change of pace. www.lundbc.ca There’s something for everyone.

Five kilometers south at Dinner Rock Regional Park with its 13 unserviced campsites overlooking the Salish Sea and Savary Island, we drove down the 1.5 km narrow, winding road (not suitable for big rigs) to our spot. Camping is free with million dollar sunsets a bonus. What a way to escape from the noise and the news.

About the author
Barb Rees, travel writer, author, and speaker, with husband Dave has taken four working holidays from coast to coast to northern coast of Canada. She is passionate about finding human interest stories. It’s reflected in her books. They include: “RV Canada On A Dime And A Dream,” “RV Canada With Boo The Menopausal Van,” and the latest “RV Canada’s Far North On A Dream.” The fourth in the series will be on tour to Newfoundland in 2013. Owner of LoveToGo Writing she can be reached in Powell River, BC at www.write2dream.com

Exploring Britannia Mine Museum

by W. Ruth Kozak

“Be sure and wear a hard hat, and be careful where you step when you’re walking inside the tunnel,” the mining guide warns as I board the little train that will carry me and another group of tourists into the deep tunnel under the mountain.

I’m in a tunnel at the Britannia Mine Museum, site of one of British Columbia’s historic landmarks, and an easy day trip from Vancouver. How many hundreds of times have I passed the site on trips up the Sea to Sky Highway on my way to Squamish or Whistler? But this day I have come for a tour through the new mining museum, opened in mid September.

The mining guide, Annike, is kitted out in full miner’s gear: coveralls, gloves, boots, and helmet. As the train pulls into the dark tunnel, the only light is from its headlight and the lamp on her hard hat. She swirls it around, beaming it against the tunnel wall that shines with seepage of coppery water and patches of green patina. The air is cold, and smells acrid.

Britannia Mines was once the biggest copper mine in the British Empire. The mine’s story began back in 1888 when a Scottish doctor, Alexander Forbes, happened to discover a patch of mineralized rock while prospecting at Britannia Beach. This led to the opening of the Britannia Mining and Smelting Company six years later, with mills capable of producing 2,000 tons a day.

There are 210 km (150 miles) of mining tunnels in the mountain. The little train takes us deep into one of them where we disembark and make our way along the tracks and rough ground of the tunnel. The mining guide demonstrates the use of equipment including drills and sticks of dynamite the miners used to blast into the rock.

“The miners used only candlelight back in the early days,” Annike explains, “so often the crews who came to dig after the dynamite was set, couldn’t see it, and this resulted in fatal explosions. After that, they painted the ends of the dynamite plugs with various colors so they could be seen.”

She recreated what it was like down in the mines back in the early days. “I’ll turn off all the lights, and you will see what it was like for the miners if their candle flames went out.”

We stand for a few minutes in the pitch black darkness. Then the dim lights are turned on again and she warns us to plug our ears while she demonstrates the loud sounds that were made by the machinery and drills. It’s hard to imagine the miners enduring these kinds of conditions.

Back outside, we tour the various mining exhibits including core sheds where samples taken from the mine are stored. The 20-storey Mill building is one of the last remaining gravity-fed concentrator mills in North America. It was restored in 2007 with each of the 14,416 panes of glass hand-puttied into the frames. The aim of the mining museum is to promote mining awareness through fun, experiential education programs and to preserve important historic mining artefacts. The Britannia Mine Water Treatment Plant represents Britannia’s environmental remediation plan implemented after the mine’s acid rock drainage impacted Howe Sound.

When the mine first opened, a small community of miners and their families grew up on the mountainside. Men and women came from all parts of the world to live and work in the mine. Known as “Jane Camp,” a tragic rock and snow slide destroyed it in 1915 killing 56 men, women and children. A safer town site was built 2,000 feet below the original town and was known as “Mount Sheer.” You can still see the remains of the 135 steps people climbed to reach a flat-deck rail car that took them up the mountain to another small train that transported them to the town. In the mining museum there are displays and photos of the life of that mining town, along with testimonials by former residents. The town thrived for several years. It had a library, clubhouse, a hospital and schools. Britannia Beach was only accessible by boat from 1904 to 1956, a two-day trip. Eventually, in 1956, the railway went through and two years later the highway was built, so residents moved down from the mountain and Mount Sheer was abandoned.

The mine operations shut down in 1974 due to economic problems. Since 1988 Mill B was designated as a National Historic site, and is considered to be one of B.C.’s important historic landmarks. The Beaty-Lundin Visitor Centre is a brand new building that houses some theatrical mining exhibits, a mineral gallery and the Canadian Mining Hall of Fame where you can learn about Canada’s mining pioneers.

After the mine tour I tried my hand at gold panning. The mine used to produce a small amount of gold as well as the copper. No luck this day, but it’s a fun activity for the kids. There’s also a mining themed children’s play area with toy diggers, trucks and hoppers .

The Britannia Mine Museum is open seven days a week and offers guided tours. Located on the scenic Sea to Sky Highway just a few kilometers north of Vancouver near Squamish, it’s a perfect outing for all members of the family. It’s operated by a non-profit organization that promotes mining awareness through fun and educational programs.

Britannia Mine Museum
Britannia Beach, B.C.
Admission (include HST)

Adults (ages 19 and up): $21.50
Seniors (65+): $16.00
Students (with valid student ID): $16.00
Youths (ages 6 through 12): $13.50
Children aged 5 and under: Free
Daily Family Rate (2 adults and up to 3 children) $72.00

Hours of Operation:

7 days a week from February 1 to November 1, from 9:00 a.m. until 4:30 p.m.
Winter season: Monday to Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed over the Christmas holidays season.

This tour was made possible with thanks to Yvonne Chiang, Media contact for Britannia Mine Museum.

About the author
Ruth is a travel journalist with a strong interest in history and archaeology. She is a frequent traveler and has lived several years in Greece. She facilitates writing groups in New Westminster and at Brock House. and edits and publishes a travel e-zine Travel Thru History. Ruth also writes historical fiction and her novel, “Shadow of the Lion” which is about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty was published in two volumes by MediaAria-CDM, Bristol Eng. The full version will soon be published on Amazon Kindle. She currently writes for EuropeUpClose and freelances for several other on-line travel ‘zines as well being publishing in Senior Living magazine and several anthologies of both travel and poetry. www.ruthkozak.com

Hiking Around Comox: Bumping Up Fitness

by Chris Millikan

Strathcona Park on Vancouver Island — Strathcona Park is a popular day trip from Comox, BC

A two-night stay up on the Forbidden Plateau outside Comox, B.C. results in three rewarding day hikes.

A day trip from our Coastal Trek Resort takes us to Strathcona, British Columbia’s first Provincial Park. Driving to the trailhead, guide Mike recounts a local legend. “Long ago, Comox warriors hid their women and children in this forested haven while battling another tribe. Upon their return, they’d vanished. Because algae tinted the snow blood red, they thought evil spirits had harmed them…so this area became taboo and hence, Forbidden Plateau.”

Just past Mt. Washington’s ski lifts and chalets, we arrive at the kiosk where the trail begins. Hiking boots laced, backpacks shouldered and walking sticks looped around our wrists, we head for Paradise Meadows. Feeling like seasoned hikers, we stride along winding boardwalks, sighting sub-alpine evergreens, burbling mountain streams and reflective ponds. Carpets of pink heather and clusters of maroon shooting stars, dwarf dogwoods, marsh marigolds and yellow alpine buttercups bloom profusely under clear blue skies.

Mike points out an alternate trail, “That one extends along Strathcona’s steeper eastern edge. I sometimes lead interested…and fit…guests back to the lodge on that 26-kilometer route.” I gasp at the thought…

Over a forested hill we descend alongside a string of pristine lakes and savor snacks along one rocky shore; later, we devour wholesome lunches overlooking Battleship Lake. Our wondrous 10-kilometer hike ends with us feeling weary…but triumphant.

More Day Trips from Comox

Another day trip from the resort involves hiking on Hornby Island, beginning at Helliwell Park. Trekking through a beautiful stand of old-growth Douglas fir forest, we emerge onto its rocky southern shoreline, ascend onto spectacular black sedimentary bluffs offering sweeping ocean panoramas and return inland through wind-shaped shore pines, gnarly Gary oaks and amber arbutus, a five-kilometer loop.

We picnic among driftwood logs facing Tribune Bay’s white sand beach. Bald eagles, turkey vultures and a rare osprey swoop above. After visiting naturally sculpted Heron Rocks and hiking a portion of Shingle Spit Trail, we return to the lodge.

And the next morning, we stop to hike into Nymph Falls on the Puntledge River. Birdsongs and wildflowers throughout this second growth forest sooth. At the roaring river’s edge, two locals tell us the fish ladders help salmon swim upstream on the stairway of ledges. One remarks, “Come back in October or November, when ya’ can watch ’em fight their way up…”

Long Loop Trail leads us back to the car…feeling in better shape from these varied island day hikes.

When You Go:

For planning your day trip activities, www.comox-valley-tourism.ca
Accommodations & fitness program details, www.coastaltrekresort.com

About the Author:
Chris Millikan is a freelance writer/photographer living near Vancouver, BC. As a former teacher and elementary school principal, Chris now presents articles as an inviting ‘curriculum’ depicting the joys of travel. Many BC community newspapers, Open Road Driver Magazine and Senior Living Magazine regularly publish her articles; In-flight Magazines, the Vancouver Sun and Province have also featured her stories. As BC Association of Travel Writers Vice President, she supports colleagues’ aspirations. And traveling off the beaten track with writer/photographer partner and hubby Rick, their published tales reflect great adventures. Their 2009 Kalama Award acknowledged an array of their stories reflecting the rich culture of Maui, Molokai and Lanai.

Victoria, BC: Gardens that Love Built

by Chris Millikan

From lodgings at Oak Bay Guest House, my hubby Rick and I ramble daily through quiet Tudor-style neighborhoods and discover wondrous gardens.

Ada Beaven established Windsor Park Rose Garden in 1937 by donating over 500 roses.

Inside manicured hedges, we try telling time on the sundial and relax in scented serenity on a weathered stone bench. On at the next corner, we breathe herbal fragrances in a new scent garden. Looping through charming Oak Bay Village and along the picturesque shoreline we locate another garden featuring 1.4 acres of native plants, also endowed by Ada.

Just beyond Oak Bay, we travel to the garden that love built, finding enchantment and inspiration. In 1920’s Paris, Peggy Pemberton-Carter and exiled Georgian Prince Nicholas Abkhazi fell madly in love; they married in 1946 and over 40 years transformed this rugged hillside into the exquisite Abkhazi Gardens. From their original summerhouse, we gaze over the passionate results of loving dedication. Lush landscapes swirl around ornamental evergreens, lofty century-old rhododendrons and towering Garry oaks. Coppery Japanese maples and weeping conifers tumble down rock-faces toward reflection pools; alpine flowers blossom profusely in rocky niches.

World-famous, the Butchart Gardens provides a worthwhile day trip from Victoria or Vancouver. For us it was just a short bus ride from Oak Bay. Open since 1904, this remarkable labour of love began with ton-after-ton of topsoil delivered by horse-cart from a nearby farm. Jenny Butchart gradually transformed her husband’s unsightly limestone quarry into this wonderful garden… where she sometimes even dangled from a boson’s chair to tuck ivy into high rocky crevices. Jenny’s family continues her vision.

The original sunken gardens tantalize our senses. Pathways loop around stately trees, ponds and flowerbeds dizzy with color: feathery pink spirea, fleshy begonias, trumpeting petunias, vibrant impatiens and graceful purple, white and blue delphiniums. An antique fountain sprays silvery strands above the spring-fed pond.

Following a dahlia border sprouting gigantic flower heads, we wander toward extensive perfumed Rose Gardens flaunting 250 flamboyant varieties. Another pathway leads us through the vermillion Torii gate into the tranquil Japanese Garden. Above, classic Italian Gardens offer formal arrays, bronze sculptures… and refreshing gelatos. Lastly, the Mediterranean Gardens simply dazzle with showy succulents and other water-wise plants, including luxuriant portulacas and palms.

Day tripping around beautiful gardens near Victoria definitely motivates us to improve our less disciplined floral borders!

Victoria Garden Links:

5,000 Eagles Gather In Southern BC

by Julie H. Ferguson

Every November, between two and six thousand eagles congregate to gorge on spawned-out salmon within an easy day trip from Vancouver. I have yearned to experience this, the biggest convocation in North America, but was determined to see it on an unspoiled river.

The Harrison River, deep in the Fraser Valley, filled the bill and is less than two hours from home.

From time immemorial, huge numbers of eagles have followed Pacific salmon flooding up wild BC rivers to spawn, then die. Dwindling food supplies and freeze-up further north drive the hungry eagles to southern BC for the later salmon runs. They are lazy birds – scavengers first, hunters only when they must.

The eagles are everywhere: on the gravel bars, along the river’s bank, and atop pilings. They fill the bare trees, soar in the sky, and bicker over a single salmon even when there are thousands. I hear them mew, whistle, cluck, and shriek. I struggle with my camera bundled up in a shower cap and the dim light so close to the winter solstice.

At the confluence of the Harrison and Chehalis Rivers, named the first Salmon Stronghold in Canada, the annual Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival kicks off the spectacle in mid-November. Opening day at Pretty Estate resort, home of Rowena’s Inn and Sandpiper Golf Course, sees experts, eagle handlers, and photographers on hand to assist visitors in understanding the birds’ life cycle that is directly tied to salmon migrations. BC’s well-known eagle guru David Hancock of the Hancock Wildlife Foundation is a regular and approachable presence.

There are two ways to experience this natural phenomenon. Drive out to Harrison Mills along Highway 7 on the north side of the Fraser River:

1. On land: Turn left at the Sasquatch Inn and follow the signs to Sandpiper Golf Course (1km). Turn right through the gates of the Pretty Estate Resort. You will be directed to parking behind Rowena’s Inn and take a short walk to the “Flats.” You can’t miss the eagles! (Free)

2. On water: Drive a bit further on Hwy 7 and cross the Harrison River bridge, then turn right to Kilby and follow the signs. From here you can take a guided river cruise operated by Fraser River Safari. The birds are not spooked by the boat, so you get closer and keep drier than on foot. It’s wise to book the river safari online before leaving Vancouver. ($65-70/person)

The boat navigates through Harrison Bay and up-river. From the pilings, the adult eagles stare me down with the unwavering eyes of all raptors. Their yellow beaks, hooked and sharp, are perfect for eating flesh. I watch an adult haul a salmon carcass from between the logs and fend off thieving juveniles and gulls.

In late December, the eagles disperse—even partners go their separate ways.

“But I thought they mated for life,” I comment.

“Last year one tagged male flew to Haida Gwaii and his partner went to Montana,” my guide says. “They returned to their nest here on exactly the same March day to raise another eaglet.”

I will return too.

The author wishes to thank Pretty Estate Resort and Fraser River Safari for making this adventure possible.

If you go:

The bald eagles visit Harrison River from mid-November to late-December; the festival is held annually on the third weekend in November at the Pretty Estate Resort. (Nov 16-17 in 2013)

Pack hiking boots, rain-gear and warm clothing, a hat and gloves. Take binoculars and, if you want good photos of the eagles, a camera with a 200mm lens or longer (smartphone cameras will disappoint).

The Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival is accessible to visitors who can walk on uneven ground. Rowena’s Inn is wheelchair accessible, but the river safari is not. Both are kid-friendly. Visitors can find good meals at both Pretty Estate and at Kilby Historic Site.

Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival: http://fraservalleybaldeaglefestival.ca/
Fraser River Safari: http://fraserriversafari.com/
Harrison River, Canada’s first Salmon Stronghold: www.wildsalmoncenter.org/programs/north_america/canada.php
Hancock Wildlife Foundation: www.hancockwildlife.org/

– Bald Eagle biology at www.hancockwildlife.org/index.php?topic=BaldEagleBiology

– Hancock’s eaglecam at Rowena’s broadcasts two live views at
http://www.hancockwildlife.org/index.php?topic=HarrMills#camera-north.

Pretty Estate Resort:

Rowena’s Inn on the River – www.sandpipergolfclub.com/rowenas_home/

River’s Edge Restaurant – http://www.sandpipergolfclub.com/riversedge_home/

Sandpiper Golf– www.sandpipergolfclub.com/

Tourism Harrison for accommodation, etc. – www.tourismharrison.com

About the author:

Julie H. Ferguson is an addicted travel writer and photographer who is intensely interested in the history and culture of foreign lands, as well as Canada, and her stories and images reflect this focus. She never leaves home without her cameras and voice recorder, always looking for the colour and sounds that captivate readers everywhere.

Julie is also the author of twenty-six books, including four about Canadian history and seventeen travel-photo portfolios. Her travel articles and images have appeared in global markets, both print and online.

She invites you to visit her travelog www.stampsinmypassport.blogspot.com, her website at www.beaconlit.com, and her portfolio at www.flickr.com/photos/beaconlit.

B.C.’s Land of the Smoking Water

by Glen Cowley

Smoking waters relentlessly wend their way to a distant sea; unfurling power and beauty in their passing.

The Columbia/Kootenay River valley, in mountainous majesty, disgorges its living waters under rolling mists over raging torrents and steaming cauldrons of the earth’s heated blood. From Golden to Cranbrook it calls, come here to awe, come here to play, come here to learn.

Since the days of the First Nations Fairmont Hot Springs has been known as the place of the smoking waters.

A place where earth’s steaming blood has sculpted the landscape and given man the luxury of its soothing waters. Here too, under the gaze of the weather worn and enigmatic Hoodoos carved by nature and hovering like quiet guardians, the Columbia River begins its 2400 kilometre journey to the Pacific.

The pools and, later, golf courses and skiing became the foundation for the resort community that is Fairmont Hot Springs.

Though discovered in the early 1880’s and known for their restorative powers and sweet smell the springs did not come into significant commercial being until 1957 when the resort was no more than a few tent cabins and one small pool. In 1965 Lloyd Wilder bought out his brother and began the serious development of what has become an international destination sporting its own air field.

The pool complex is adjacent to the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort and open to the public at $9.00 per adult for the day.

Not surprisingly the hot pool is most often lined with those of more experienced age lounging in its restorative comfort while families frolic in the attached cool pool or plunge into the waters of the diving pool.

A grassy knoll offers watered sunbathers an open air tanning salon. All is set against the majestic backdrop of the Purcells and the Rockies.

Above the resort, on a hill built from the ancient deposits of the springs, there sits a restored historic bath house with three rooms, each of which sports a bathtub size pool of spring waters. Behind the bath house the wandering hot springs support two man made outdoor hot pools where the weary can park themselves and soak their feet.

Toby Creek, at Panorama Ridge Mountain Village 40 kilometres from Fairmont, runs wild amid its cold steaming spray.

With the waters running low at the end of summer I caught one of the few remaining river rafting runs with Columbia Rafting Adventures. Even at low water the 12 kilometre run offered thrills as we dashed through foaming drops, swung around rocks and cavorted with 360 degree turns affording dramatic views of the looming mountains.

Our guide James captained us through the rapids spilling out instructions for us paddlers grinning through the unexpected. The journey left me hungering for more.

Nearby Radium Hot Springs are snuggled at the base of colourful Sinclair Canyon through which the waters dance to the growing Columbia. Housed in Kootenay National Park visitors to the pools are forgiven the $19.50 per car daily park fee provided they park only in the pool parking lot..

Reputedly used by none other than Hudson Bay Company governor George Simpson in 1824 on his tour of HBC posts in BC it was already well worn by the local First Nations people.

Today, enclosed and sporting a cool pool and jacuzzi, the hot springs are lined with bathers of all ages. In the winter the pool is a steaming ghost world and the pathway from change rooms to the pool is sheltered from the worst of winter weather. $6.50 per adult gets you in and a loonie gets you a locker. If you are lucky you may see mountain sheep gazing fearlessly upon you from the cliffs above.

Through the stretch of the valley there are other venues for white water rafting, lazy ecotours along the Columbia, vistas and hikes from the top of summer chair lifts, and innumerable hikes in the mountains and valley. The beauty of nature laid out before you.

To this you may add visits to historic Fort Steele and Bavarianized Kimberley, lake side beaches at Invermere and golfing.

Nor is this land but a seasonal destination. With winter comes skiing on a range of slopes from Golden to Cranbrook as well as heli-skiing, cross country skiing, snowmobiling and snow shoeing.

Whether it is the lure of summer and spring waters or winter snows this majestic valley holds a wealth of treasures.

And through the mists of the smoking waters we are afforded the panorama of nature in its glory. A glory and beauty to be recognized and protected even as we come enjoy its bounty; so that our children’s children may know it in its splendour.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes author and freelance travel writer Glen Cowley who lives in Chamainus, BC.

About the photos:

1: Columbia Lake, the source of the mighty Columbia River
2: Hoodoos, the artwork of nature, line a portion of the highway.
3: The acclaimed Grey Wolf golf couse at the base of Panorama’s ski runs.

If You Go:

The nearest airport is Cranbrook about an hour’s drive south of the resort.
Columbia River Rafting Adventures: – www.ColumbiaRafting.com
Kootenay River Runners: – www.raftingtherockies.com
Fairmont Hot Springs: – www.fairmonthotsprings.com
Panorama Village: – www.panoramaresort.com
Radium Hot Springs: – www.hotsprings.ca

Niagara’s River Road

by Guylaine Spencer

Picture yourself rollerblading through a gallery of Impressionist paintings. Now you’ve got some idea of what it’s like to cruise the river-hugging Niagara Parkway during the brief but brilliant fall-color season.

The route that Winston Churchill called “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world” puts on its best dress once a year, usually during the last week of September and the first couple of weeks in October.

As a native of the region, I can only say one thing to visitors who come to marvel at the famous Niagara Falls: “Don’t miss out on the other natural wonder of our world!”

The historic Niagara Parkway, which locals call simply “the river road,” follows the winding curves of the Niagara River that divides Canada and the United States as it journeys from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario.

Landscaped during the Depression of the 1930s by the provincial Niagara Parks Commission, this well-loved route is used today as much for recreation as for transportation. You can drive the entire 35 miles (56 km) or get off at any point along the way and walk, bike or rollerblade the paved recreational trail that runs parallel to the water.

If you’ve visited the Canadian side of the Niagara Falls, you’ve driven part of this road already ? but only a part. There’s a lot more to see.

In autumn, the loveliest stretch is the section that runs between the small towns of Queenston and Niagara-on-the-Lake. Here, the maple trees lining the river create a shifting panorama of red, orange and gold from early to late October.

The grass is still green at this time, and the river, glimpsed between the dark tree trunks, is a pale, silvery blue ? the shade you see on antique Norwegian wardrobes or blue cameo brooches.

The blur of color is so dazzling that you’ll probably want to stop and stay still for a while to appreciate the full beauty of the area. There are several scenic lookout spots along the way with small parking areas.

From Queenston’s Heights Park, you’ll discover a commanding view of both the river and Lake Ontario. Find a bench where you can sit and contemplate your surroundings, or share a picnic lunch with a companion. The park pavilion offers two restaurants, one casual and one fine dining, both with great panoramic views of the river.

While you’re in Queenston, and still in the mood for appreciating beauty, you might want to stop and visit the Riverbrink Art Gallery.

Here you will discover a fine collection of historic Canadian art, including work by the “Group of Seven” (a group of Canadian landscape painters in the 1920s); Impressionist painter and sculptor Marc Aurèle de Foy Suzor-Côté (1869–1937); Dutch-Canadian landscape painter Cornelius Krieghoff (1812-1872); and Irish-born Paul Kane (1810-1871), who documented the Canadian West in his renowned pictures.

At the north end of the Parkway, where the river runs into Lake Ontario, you come to Niagara-on-the-Lake, a bustling resort town famous for its theater festival — the Shaw Festival — which celebrates the works of Irish playwright George Bernard Shaw. The town also boasts winery tours, heritage homes, a historic fort and a flower-filled main street.

While the chichi clothing, gift and home décor boutiques along Queen Street are alluring — if damaging to the pocketbook — take time to explore the side streets here, as well. You won’t be disappointed. Lined with early 19th century houses, this is the kind of leafy, picture-perfect neighborhood you usually see only in the movies.

Carved pumpkins, wicker rocking chairs and baskets full of red geraniums decorate white clapboard homes with wrap-around porches.

Down at the lakeshore park, you’ll find a Victorian-style gazebo facing the water. This gingerbread confection blends perfectly with the rest of the town, but — surprise! — it’s much younger than everything else. It was built for the movie The Dead Zone, an adaptation of the Stephen King novel starring Christopher Walken, when it was shot here in 1983.

When you have had enough exercise, stop for refreshments at one of the many restaurants in town. The century-old Oban Inn and the trendy Epicurean, with its leafy backyard patio, are popular favorites. You’ll find restaurants and cafés offering seafood, steaks, Italian and Chinese cuisine, and more along Queen Street.

If you’re planning to attend the 8 p.m. show at the Shaw Festival, make your reservations for 5:30 p.m. to give yourself plenty of time to enjoy your dinner.

On an autumn day, you can celebrate another natural, local treasure, the grape harvest, by indulging in a glass of Niagara wine.

What better way is there to celebrate a brief but bountiful season?

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Guylaine Spencer who lives in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

About the photos:

1: A variety of horse drawn carriages await your pleasure. Chris Beard Photography
2: A street view of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Chris Beard Photography
3: Overlooking Niagara Falls. Chris Beard Photography