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Traveling Tales

Travel articles and information

Irene Butler

Titanic Belfast – Birthplace of the Titanic

by Irene Butler

Titanic Belfast
Titanic Belfast

From a distance it is likened to an immense iceberg glinting in the sun. As we near the edifice its appearance takes on the angular shape of four massive ship prows, each facing a different direction.

Both perceptions are befitting this monument to Belfast’s maritime history and to Titanic Belfast being the world’s most extensive Titanic experience.

On the inside we are swept up in Belfast’s industrial boom of the early 1900’s; shipbuilding being a major player. From here my husband Rick and I follow the levels that take us ever deeper into the Titanic story. To the thunder of hammers riveting steel, our cable car passes the phases of construction from her outer shell to her mega engines. Transfixed we watch old film footage of 100,000 people cheering as the Titanic slid down the Harland & Wolff slipway and settled on the waters of Belfast Lough for its maiden voyage.

In another gallery we swirl among original artifacts, replicas and imagery of opulent luxury for first class passengers, including the magnificent grand staircase. The 2nd and 3rd/steerage class quarters pale in comparison, yet no doubt were brightened by the hopes of these individuals and families emigrating to American to start a new life. Seeing the faces of passengers from rows of photos is haunting.

And how fortuitous that on display is the violin played on that fateful night by Wallace Henry Hartley, bandmaster on the RMS Titanic. Its whereabouts unknown for many years, the violin was found in an attic of a Yorkshire home in 2006, and has since undergone extensive research and forensic testing for authenticity.

Regarded as a hero in Titanic folklore, Hartley is credited with the decision to bring his orchestra of five, plus another set of three musicians onto the deck to play hymns as the Titanic was sinking on April 14th, 1912 – an attempt to calm passengers as they boarded the lifeboats. It is said they continued to play until the lurching of the vessel made it impossible to do so. The time of the ship being swallowed in total by the sea is recorded as 2:20 a.m. on April 15th. All eight men perished in the disaster – along with over 1,500 (out of the total passengers and crew count of 2,224).

The violin in a leather case with his initials W.H.H. was strapped to Hartley’s body when his remains were recovered by the crew of the ship MacKay Bennett 14 days after the disaster. Peering through glass within inches of the violin we read the inscription, “For Wallace on the occasion of our engagement from Maria” – a gift from fiancée Maria Robinson in1910. It was returned to Maria after his death. She never married and after Maria’s demise her sister donated the violin to a local Salvation Army band, from where it passed through more hands until its discovery. From Titanic Belfast it will go to public auction.

Dr. Robert Ballard’s account of his discovery of the wreckage in 1985 sends icy sensations down my spine. We stand on a glass floor while the images captured by Ballard go by beneath us, as if skimming along in a mini-submarine. Items such as the captain’s bathtub, bottles, and dishes lay scattered about. Two ladies shoes, one larger and one smaller, lie side-by-side….were they perhaps mother and teen daughter?

Outside the facility is the slipway (dry dock) where the Titanic came into being; its exact dimensions painted on the surface. We walk on what once was the length of the ship and as portrayed on a movie set (eat your hearts our Leonardo and Kate) we stand with arms outstretched on the actual spot where the bow was located!

Titanic Belfast revived and expanded our knowledge of everything Titanic, and left us deeply moved by the heroic gestures of crew and passengers during this cataclysm.

Post-our Titanic Belfast visit – the auctioneer’s hammer came down at Henry Aldridge & Sons, The Devizes Auctioneer, in Wilshire, England.

Hartley’s Violin and leather case sold for 900,000 pounds (about $1.45 million US)! No one expected the bids to go as high. The previous top sale for a Titanic item was a 32-foot plan of the Titanic used in the enquiry into the sinking, which fetched 220,000 pounds. The violin sold in ten minutes, the end bidding was between two undisclosed telephone bidders! …and is therefore lost once again to the public eye.

Hartley’s violin and case at Titanic Belfast

Photo/video credit: Rick Butler

For more info:
www.titanicbelfast.com

About the author:
Irene Butler is an award winning travel writer and author of “Trekking the Globe with Mostly Gentle Footsteps” now on Kindle. Her articles have appeared in national and international publications. She and her photographer husband Rick explore the world for six months of every year. www.globaltrekkers.ca

Stepping Out Onto The Mongolian Steppes

by Irene Butler

Mongolian wrestling matchThe range of day trips from Ulaanbaatar onto the Mongolian Steppes swirl in our minds. Our dilemma of fitting in all we want to see is perfectly resolved by combining our day of sightseeing with an overnight stay in a nomad ger (yurt).

Sanjay our skilled driver wends his way over the dusty pot-holed road. The hectic capital of Ulaanbaatar seems a world away as the steppes (grasslands) unfold around us. My breath catches as we approach the Chinggis Khaan Statue (known as Genghis Khan to us westerners) – this 13th century Golden Horde leader clutching a golden whip sits astride his powerful steed. “This statue fashioned from 250 tons of stainless steel rises 40 metres from on top of the 10 metre visitor’s centre,” says our guide Umbra as we stand mesmerized before this behemoth.

Next is Terelj National Park where the undulating steppes morph into granite cliffs. We wander in bright sunshine among giant boulders – one stack resembles a dinosaur-sized tortoise, dubbed Turtle Rock. Further along is the Ariyabal Meditation Temple. “Yikes, this will test our stamina,” I say as we begin our hike up the snaking path with 150 Buddhist proverbs posted on signs along the way. At the top our prayers are unleashed into the ether with the spinning of prayer wheels that surround the temple – mine includes gratitude for surviving the climb. The inside of dynamic colour holds an aura of tranquility with worshippers focused on a gold Buddha at the far end.

The road becomes mere tire-tracks as we enter the nomad community. Thirty percent of Mongolia’s 2.75 million citizens are nomadic or semi-nomadic, raising sheep, cattle and goats. We note how modernity has melded with tradition in the satellite dishes sprouting around the gers like metal flowers. Entering the main ger of our host family, a flat screen TV is on, and Okto the lady of the house finishes a cell-phone chat and welcomes us with open arms. Within minutes Okto is filling our bowls with a hearty mutton noodle soup from a wok that fits over the small woodstove/heater. Water must be hauled from a well a kilometre away.

We are ecstatic when Undra gleans a special event is going on down the road – a mini Nadaam! The next best thing to being at the National Nadaam Festival held in July each year that draws skilled participants from all over Mongolia to compete in horse racing games, archery and wrestling.

The crowd is cheering the horse race winners as we approach the field. We settle among the spectators on the grass as the wrestling begins. A dozen men compete in pairs, the winners pitted against winners, until only two remain – a wiry muscular opponent against another dressed in traditional wrestling garb of blue speedo-type bottoms and red top covering his arms and back. The latter wins and with arms stretched he soars like an eagle around the national flag to celebrate his victory.

Okto’s husband Dasha arrives home in the early evening. Like Okto he speaks no English, but thru Undra he relays how as a Shaman his body is the vehicle through which to tap into the wisdom and healing powers from within his source of seventy-seven spirits.

Our guest ger is prepared with a fire in the stove and plenty of wool blankets. Readying for breakfast the chill morning air has us moving faster than a hawk swooping down on its prey. After our fill of sweet tea and biscuits the table is cleared for Shagai, played with dried sheep bones – a game that has been around since Chinggis. All too soon it is time to bid farewell to our gracious hosts and to once more cross the vast steppes that portray a sense of infinity.

About the Author:
Irene Butler is an award winning travel writer and author of “Trekking the Globe with Mostly Gentle Footsteps” now on Kindle. Her articles have appeared in national and international publications. She and her photographer husband Rick explore the world for six months of every year. www.globaltrekkers.ca

Photo by Rick Butler

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