day trips from Vancouver

Exploring Britannia Mine Museum

by W. Ruth Kozak

“Be sure and wear a hard hat, and be careful where you step when you’re walking inside the tunnel,” the mining guide warns as I board the little train that will carry me and another group of tourists into the deep tunnel under the mountain.

I’m in a tunnel at the Britannia Mine Museum, site of one of British Columbia’s historic landmarks, and an easy day trip from Vancouver. How many hundreds of times have I passed the site on trips up the Sea to Sky Highway on my way to Squamish or Whistler? But this day I have come for a tour through the new mining museum, opened in mid September.

The mining guide, Annike, is kitted out in full miner’s gear: coveralls, gloves, boots, and helmet. As the train pulls into the dark tunnel, the only light is from its headlight and the lamp on her hard hat. She swirls it around, beaming it against the tunnel wall that shines with seepage of coppery water and patches of green patina. The air is cold, and smells acrid.

Britannia Mines was once the biggest copper mine in the British Empire. The mine’s story began back in 1888 when a Scottish doctor, Alexander Forbes, happened to discover a patch of mineralized rock while prospecting at Britannia Beach. This led to the opening of the Britannia Mining and Smelting Company six years later, with mills capable of producing 2,000 tons a day.

There are 210 km (150 miles) of mining tunnels in the mountain. The little train takes us deep into one of them where we disembark and make our way along the tracks and rough ground of the tunnel. The mining guide demonstrates the use of equipment including drills and sticks of dynamite the miners used to blast into the rock.

“The miners used only candlelight back in the early days,” Annike explains, “so often the crews who came to dig after the dynamite was set, couldn’t see it, and this resulted in fatal explosions. After that, they painted the ends of the dynamite plugs with various colors so they could be seen.”

She recreated what it was like down in the mines back in the early days. “I’ll turn off all the lights, and you will see what it was like for the miners if their candle flames went out.”

We stand for a few minutes in the pitch black darkness. Then the dim lights are turned on again and she warns us to plug our ears while she demonstrates the loud sounds that were made by the machinery and drills. It’s hard to imagine the miners enduring these kinds of conditions.

Back outside, we tour the various mining exhibits including core sheds where samples taken from the mine are stored. The 20-storey Mill building is one of the last remaining gravity-fed concentrator mills in North America. It was restored in 2007 with each of the 14,416 panes of glass hand-puttied into the frames. The aim of the mining museum is to promote mining awareness through fun, experiential education programs and to preserve important historic mining artefacts. The Britannia Mine Water Treatment Plant represents Britannia’s environmental remediation plan implemented after the mine’s acid rock drainage impacted Howe Sound.

When the mine first opened, a small community of miners and their families grew up on the mountainside. Men and women came from all parts of the world to live and work in the mine. Known as “Jane Camp,” a tragic rock and snow slide destroyed it in 1915 killing 56 men, women and children. A safer town site was built 2,000 feet below the original town and was known as “Mount Sheer.” You can still see the remains of the 135 steps people climbed to reach a flat-deck rail car that took them up the mountain to another small train that transported them to the town. In the mining museum there are displays and photos of the life of that mining town, along with testimonials by former residents. The town thrived for several years. It had a library, clubhouse, a hospital and schools. Britannia Beach was only accessible by boat from 1904 to 1956, a two-day trip. Eventually, in 1956, the railway went through and two years later the highway was built, so residents moved down from the mountain and Mount Sheer was abandoned.

The mine operations shut down in 1974 due to economic problems. Since 1988 Mill B was designated as a National Historic site, and is considered to be one of B.C.’s important historic landmarks. The Beaty-Lundin Visitor Centre is a brand new building that houses some theatrical mining exhibits, a mineral gallery and the Canadian Mining Hall of Fame where you can learn about Canada’s mining pioneers.

After the mine tour I tried my hand at gold panning. The mine used to produce a small amount of gold as well as the copper. No luck this day, but it’s a fun activity for the kids. There’s also a mining themed children’s play area with toy diggers, trucks and hoppers .

The Britannia Mine Museum is open seven days a week and offers guided tours. Located on the scenic Sea to Sky Highway just a few kilometers north of Vancouver near Squamish, it’s a perfect outing for all members of the family. It’s operated by a non-profit organization that promotes mining awareness through fun and educational programs.

Britannia Mine Museum
Britannia Beach, B.C.
Admission (include HST)

Adults (ages 19 and up): $21.50
Seniors (65+): $16.00
Students (with valid student ID): $16.00
Youths (ages 6 through 12): $13.50
Children aged 5 and under: Free
Daily Family Rate (2 adults and up to 3 children) $72.00

Hours of Operation:

7 days a week from February 1 to November 1, from 9:00 a.m. until 4:30 p.m.
Winter season: Monday to Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 4.30 p.m. Closed over the Christmas holidays season.

This tour was made possible with thanks to Yvonne Chiang, Media contact for Britannia Mine Museum.

About the author
Ruth is a travel journalist with a strong interest in history and archaeology. She is a frequent traveler and has lived several years in Greece. She facilitates writing groups in New Westminster and at Brock House. and edits and publishes a travel e-zine Travel Thru History. Ruth also writes historical fiction and her novel, “Shadow of the Lion” which is about the fall of Alexander the Great’s dynasty was published in two volumes by MediaAria-CDM, Bristol Eng. The full version will soon be published on Amazon Kindle. She currently writes for EuropeUpClose and freelances for several other on-line travel ‘zines as well being publishing in Senior Living magazine and several anthologies of both travel and poetry. www.ruthkozak.com

5,000 Eagles Gather In Southern BC

by Julie H. Ferguson

Every November, between two and six thousand eagles congregate to gorge on spawned-out salmon within an easy day trip from Vancouver. I have yearned to experience this, the biggest convocation in North America, but was determined to see it on an unspoiled river.

The Harrison River, deep in the Fraser Valley, filled the bill and is less than two hours from home.

From time immemorial, huge numbers of eagles have followed Pacific salmon flooding up wild BC rivers to spawn, then die. Dwindling food supplies and freeze-up further north drive the hungry eagles to southern BC for the later salmon runs. They are lazy birds – scavengers first, hunters only when they must.

The eagles are everywhere: on the gravel bars, along the river’s bank, and atop pilings. They fill the bare trees, soar in the sky, and bicker over a single salmon even when there are thousands. I hear them mew, whistle, cluck, and shriek. I struggle with my camera bundled up in a shower cap and the dim light so close to the winter solstice.

At the confluence of the Harrison and Chehalis Rivers, named the first Salmon Stronghold in Canada, the annual Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival kicks off the spectacle in mid-November. Opening day at Pretty Estate resort, home of Rowena’s Inn and Sandpiper Golf Course, sees experts, eagle handlers, and photographers on hand to assist visitors in understanding the birds’ life cycle that is directly tied to salmon migrations. BC’s well-known eagle guru David Hancock of the Hancock Wildlife Foundation is a regular and approachable presence.

There are two ways to experience this natural phenomenon. Drive out to Harrison Mills along Highway 7 on the north side of the Fraser River:

1. On land: Turn left at the Sasquatch Inn and follow the signs to Sandpiper Golf Course (1km). Turn right through the gates of the Pretty Estate Resort. You will be directed to parking behind Rowena’s Inn and take a short walk to the “Flats.” You can’t miss the eagles! (Free)

2. On water: Drive a bit further on Hwy 7 and cross the Harrison River bridge, then turn right to Kilby and follow the signs. From here you can take a guided river cruise operated by Fraser River Safari. The birds are not spooked by the boat, so you get closer and keep drier than on foot. It’s wise to book the river safari online before leaving Vancouver. ($65-70/person)

The boat navigates through Harrison Bay and up-river. From the pilings, the adult eagles stare me down with the unwavering eyes of all raptors. Their yellow beaks, hooked and sharp, are perfect for eating flesh. I watch an adult haul a salmon carcass from between the logs and fend off thieving juveniles and gulls.

In late December, the eagles disperse—even partners go their separate ways.

“But I thought they mated for life,” I comment.

“Last year one tagged male flew to Haida Gwaii and his partner went to Montana,” my guide says. “They returned to their nest here on exactly the same March day to raise another eaglet.”

I will return too.

The author wishes to thank Pretty Estate Resort and Fraser River Safari for making this adventure possible.

If you go:

The bald eagles visit Harrison River from mid-November to late-December; the festival is held annually on the third weekend in November at the Pretty Estate Resort. (Nov 16-17 in 2013)

Pack hiking boots, rain-gear and warm clothing, a hat and gloves. Take binoculars and, if you want good photos of the eagles, a camera with a 200mm lens or longer (smartphone cameras will disappoint).

The Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival is accessible to visitors who can walk on uneven ground. Rowena’s Inn is wheelchair accessible, but the river safari is not. Both are kid-friendly. Visitors can find good meals at both Pretty Estate and at Kilby Historic Site.

Fraser Valley Bald Eagle Festival: http://fraservalleybaldeaglefestival.ca/
Fraser River Safari: http://fraserriversafari.com/
Harrison River, Canada’s first Salmon Stronghold: www.wildsalmoncenter.org/programs/north_america/canada.php
Hancock Wildlife Foundation: www.hancockwildlife.org/

– Bald Eagle biology at www.hancockwildlife.org/index.php?topic=BaldEagleBiology

– Hancock’s eaglecam at Rowena’s broadcasts two live views at
http://www.hancockwildlife.org/index.php?topic=HarrMills#camera-north.

Pretty Estate Resort:

Rowena’s Inn on the River – www.sandpipergolfclub.com/rowenas_home/

River’s Edge Restaurant – http://www.sandpipergolfclub.com/riversedge_home/

Sandpiper Golf– www.sandpipergolfclub.com/

Tourism Harrison for accommodation, etc. – www.tourismharrison.com

About the author:

Julie H. Ferguson is an addicted travel writer and photographer who is intensely interested in the history and culture of foreign lands, as well as Canada, and her stories and images reflect this focus. She never leaves home without her cameras and voice recorder, always looking for the colour and sounds that captivate readers everywhere.

Julie is also the author of twenty-six books, including four about Canadian history and seventeen travel-photo portfolios. Her travel articles and images have appeared in global markets, both print and online.

She invites you to visit her travelog www.stampsinmypassport.blogspot.com, her website at www.beaconlit.com, and her portfolio at www.flickr.com/photos/beaconlit.

Fort Langley: A Step Back in Time

by Joei Carlton Hossack

It was a perfect day trip from Vancouver, British Columbia to the National Historic Site at Fort Langley. It was sunny and warm and there was little traffic on the highway for our mid-week outing.

My friend Edith and I arrived at the Fort just in time to attend the staged wedding of Allison, a First Nations woman and Jason, a fur trader with the Hudson’s Bay Company, or in this case, audience members. Before vows were exchanged gifts of Hudson Bay blankets, cranberries, hides for moccasins and tools were traded between the husband’s and wife’s families. A simple ceremony followed and promises were made that when a judge arrived at the Fort the marriage would be formalized.

For two hours we lived in the 19th century, wandering in and out of the reconstructed wooden buildings. From the cooperage, where barrels were built to store and ship salmon, cranberries and farm produce, we went to the blacksmith shop where farm tools were forged then set out for viewing and giant bellows hung from the ceiling. The storehouse, built in the 1840s and renovated in the 1930s is the only original building left on the site. We drifted into the First Nations building, next door, for a little fur trading and to examine the pile of pelts on the tables.

We stopped at the Barrel Café and realized that a traditional lunch menu of harvest soup with bannock (bread prepared by frying), scones, chicken and cranberries sandwich, maple baked beans or settler’s shepherd pie to mention just a few items, were available. We had already lunched on a “James Dean” burger in town but couldn’t resist a cup of tea and a cranberry scone.

In November, 1858 British Columbia was proclaimed a colony at a ceremony in The Big House. The building served as the Fort’s office and residence of the chief trader, the clerk and their families.

After an informal introduction to the livestock, consisting of rabbits, pigs and sheep all housed in individual pens, we took our seats and listened to a presentation at the Heritage Garden. We sampled green beans and a vegetable that was the precursor of celery but tasted harsh to my palate. We munched on tiny edible flowers and enjoyed the delicate flavor. Small paper bags were handed out to carry away sprigs of mint and sage and handfuls of beans.

Now well fortified, I tried my hand at some gold panning. There might have been nuggets in that water but I found nothing larger than tiny flakes and certainly nothing I wanted to take home. We ended our tour at The Servant’s Quarters, walking from room to room and taking pictures of the food in the center of tables, the bear rugs on the floor, the chamber pots under the beds and snowshoes that hung from the rafters or propped against walls.

To ease our way back into the 21st century we browsed through the antique shops on Mavis Avenue before hitting the ice cream shop in Fort Langley.

About the author:
Joei Carlton Hossack is the author of ten adventure travel books, an entertaining and inspirational speaker and amateur photographer. Her favorite mode of transportation is traveling solo in her RV. She teaches memoir writing and travel writing. Please visit her website at www.joeicarlton.com. Joei has created a new line of books called Mini Reads and a new line of bookmarks combining her love of photography and bead work. The bookmarks are available at www.etsy.com/shop/BookBlingbyJoei

A Golf Getaway Deep In The Fraser Valley

by Julie H. Ferguson

The view gobsmacks me as I wheel into the Pretty Estate Resort in Harrison Mills, an easy day trip from Vancouver. Why hadn’t I stopped here before?

“You’re early,” the man at the pro shop tells me. “Is it your first time?”

“Yes.”

“Would you like a tour?” My eyes light up.

Alan whisks me away in his cart. He’s a player’s assistant at the Sandpiper Golf Course and sets the tone for my stay.

Alan shows me the forested course that sweeps down to the unspoiled Harrison River and gives me tips on how to play it. Sandpiper’s front nine winds amongst towering Douglas firs, but it is the back nine that has spectacular holes running along the banks of the river. I also get my first look at the restaurant and Rowena’s Inn.

As I play Sandpiper, all I can hear are birds singing and the plop of my ball dropping into the cup. The fairways are lush after a wet spring, though players using power carts must still keep to the path. I enjoy this uncrowded course, not too difficult but with enough challenges to keep me interested. The views through the firs distract me periodically, but when I reach Sandpiper’s signature hole, the fifteenth, my scoring comes undone. The fast-running river is cloudy turquoise with snow melt; the snow-capped Coast Mountains, smoky blue; the old fruit trees, white with blossom. I inhale spring.

I struggle to restore my wandering focus and tackle Sandpiper’s final hole. I manage a par before lunch at The River’s Edge restaurant.

This cozy restaurant nestled in the firs is filled with old world charm but in high summer, guests eat on the terrace and drink in the view along with VQA wines. River’s Edge focuses on west coast food with fresh ingredients mostly from Fraser Valley producers.

Rowena’s Inn on the River, which I’d heard about but never visited, is the former Pretty family home and looks out over the open fairways to the river and mountains beyond. Here the goal is seriously comfortable hospitality and impeccable personal service.

Inside Rowena’s, I’m transported to an era where the art of unhurried conversation was encouraged. The main rooms are elegant and refined, and filled with carefully acquired antiques; natural light pours through the south-facing windows. Upstairs the guestrooms are all different; in one, the carved bed of Dame Nellie Melba, the opera singer, takes centre stage. If guests desire more privacy, they stay in one of four luxury log cabins that nestle close beside the inn overlooking a small lake.

I enjoy the traditional Afternoon Tea in the drawing room with other guests who anticipate a gourmet breakfast in the inn’s solarium next morning.

Later with a glass of Okanagan Chardonnay by the pool, I breathe the pure air and unwind. Now that I’ve found the Pretty Estate Resort, I never want to leave.

If you go:

A car is essential to visit the Harrison-Agassiz region. The drive from Vancouver takes under two hours and the most scenic route is along Highway 7 on the north side of the Fraser River.

Pretty Estate Resort: www.SandpiperResort.ca
Packages: http://www.sandpipergolfclub.com/rowenas_packages/
Fishing expeditions, wildlife and ecotours available

The inn and restaurant are wheelchair accessible.

Harrison Tourism: www.tourismharrison.com

About the author

She invites you to visit her travelog www.stampsinmypassport.blogspot.com, her website at www.beaconlit.com, and her portfolio at www.flickr.com/photos/beaconlit.

Victoria’s Gardens: Free for the Viewing

By Chris Millikan

Year round floral spectacles may inspire a day trip from Vancouver to Victoria, BC, where a passion for gardening is evident everywhere. Riotous flowers adorn boulevards and store fronts; hanging baskets, wooden tubs, classy ceramic urns, window boxes and yards overflow with rainbow colors.

Often staying in Victoria a couple of days, we launch daily garden visits from our lodgings. During teatime in the Villa Marco Polo’s classic Italian garden, the innkeeper tells us that every February Victoria announces her billion plus flower count to snowbound Canada. And throughout the summer, there are gazillions more to find…

Wanting to view as many flowers as possible, my husband Rick and I start by exploring the unique public collections surrounding nearby Government House. The Sunken Rose Garden features contemporary and heritage blooms surrounding a tiered antique fountain; a carved Salish orca supports a sundial among flowering lavender, sage, basil and mustard in the adjacent Herb Garden. Winsome buttercups, foxgloves and other wildflowers are sprinkled throughout the preserved Garry Oak forest.

Former Lieutenant Governor Lam established the formal Victorian Rose Gardens. Even earlier, another Lieutenant Governor planted ornamental shrubs and evergreens on shady Pearkes Peak, three rocky ‘islands’ surrounded by grass. And our present Lieutenant Governor hosts summer programs on those lush lawns. At Robert Dunsmuir’s regal Craigdarroch Castle, we notice garden areas being re-established.

Victoria’s wondrous and historic park is a pleasant walk away. Beacon Hill Park was established in 1882 when Scottish landscaper John Blair planted over 2,000 trees and shrubs, some of which are now rare and endangered. Today’s visitors can putt greens, feed dabbling ducks, watch peacocks strut, even clip-clop under oak canopies in horse-drawn carriages…or like us, delight in the alpine rock gardens and roam the endless beds of brilliantly blooming perennials.

Just outside Victoria we also visit the under reported garden treasure at Hatley Castle, a suburban mansion once belonging to James, Robert Dunsmuir’s son. Now open to the public for a small fee, this former Colwood estate boasts nine traditional ‘garden rooms.’ A classical Italian garden stretches below the ocean view balcony. Nearby, a meticulous Japanese garden retains its original Zen essence, which was bestowed by a Yokohama garden master at the turn of the century. There’s also a fragrant Rose garden and restored century-old greenhouse. And nature continues to abound on this large estate. A wildlife sanctuary encircles a saltwater lagoon and fifteen-kilometers of trails loop through urban forest.

Visits to Greater Victoria’s gardens provide us with days filled with beauty and inspiration.

When You Go:

Villa Marco Polo: www.villamarcopolo.com
Hatley Castle: www.hatleycastle.com

About the Author:
Chris Millikan is a freelance writer/photographer living near Vancouver, BC. As a former teacher and elementary school principal, Chris now presents articles as an inviting ‘curriculum’ depicting the joys of travel. Many BC community newspapers, Open Road Driver Magazine and Senior Living Magazine regularly publish her articles; In-flight Magazines, the Vancouver Sun and Province have also featured her stories. As BC Association of Travel Writers Vice President, she supports colleagues’ aspirations. And traveling off the beaten track with writer/photographer partner and hubby Rick, their published tales reflect great adventures. Their 2009 Kalama Award acknowledged an array of their stories reflecting the rich culture of Maui, Molokai and Lanai.