As we started up the trail, I glanced overhead and spied a pair of vultures circling above. “I wonder what they know that we don’t?” I thought to myself, as I instinctively took a sip from my water bottle. At the same time, I also thought, “Boy, I’m going to enjoy the post-hike pampering after this is over.”

This was my introduction to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs, the only natural hot springs in the world that offers a combination of four different types of geothermal mineral waters: arsenic, iron, lithium and soda.

The first 10 minutes of our hike into the New Mexican desert were certainly the toughest. The mid-day heat blazed down upon us as we traversed the switchback trail taking us up to the top of a plateau at a 45-degree angle.

As it turned out, that initial ascent was the only really difficult portion of our walk to the site of a former Posi pueblo (or village); the vultures would have to look elsewhere for a meal, that day.

Guided by archaeologist Martha Yates, we spent the afternoon looking for rock art, the remnants of Native agricultural technology and sites of former buildings of the indigenous people who once called this place “home.”

Towards the end of the trip, we enjoyed a panoramic view of the Rio Ojo.

Of course, we also spent a bit of time dodging cacti spines and sweating. But that made the rest of our afternoon and evening all that more enjoyable.

Heading back down the switchback, I paused to enjoy the view and shoot some photos. Anticipating a reward for my exertions, I had a relaxing massage booked to help me unwind. Following supper, I planned to enjoy the spa’s naturally hot mineral pools to further reduce me to a mass of human Silly Putty.

It worked.

After a massage that seemed to finish all too quickly and a delicious supper, it was time to head for the mineral pools, to continue my melting process.

There is nothing quite so invigorating, yet at the same time totally relaxing, as taking the waters in a hot mineral pool at night, watching the desert stars come out to sprinkle the darkening skies with their twinkling brightness.

Situated near the banks of the Rio Ojo, an hour’s drive from both Albuquerque and Santa Fe, New Mexico, the Ojo Caliente resort is not exactly a chi-chi luxury spa; it’s more like an “Everyman’s spa”-but that’s part of its charm.

By and large, the management is quite happy to keep it that way. There aren’t any state-of-the art, high-end accommodations or massage rooms with electric powered “waterfalls” to create “a mood”.

The main building-built in 1916 in a “new mission revival style” adobe-houses the office, restaurant and some accommodations. It is even listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

So, if every latest trend and state-of-the-art innovation isn’t there, what grabbed my interest? Well …

I could choose between seven naturally fed, outdoor hot springs with four different types of hot mineral waters to soak in. For the completely uninhibited, there was even an area for bathing “au natural” (I’m uninhibited, but not that uninhibited …)

My choice of therapy treatments included regular massage, hot stone massage, the spa’s signature Milagro Relaxation Wrap, and mud treatments. (These treatments are all within the same ballpark, price wise, compared with similar treatments in B.C.’s Lower Mainland.)

The spa’s Artesian Restaurant provided some incredible meals.

In addition to hiking, the spa offered other activities, including yoga and several types of workshops, including a micaceous clay workshop, run by Jicarilla Apache descendant Felipe Ortega. He is a recognized authority in the field, and museums and private collectors covet his works.

My choice of accommodations ranged from rooms in the hotel, to cottages and even camping on the property. All lodging, with the exception of the RV and camping park options, allows access to mineral pools plus steam and sauna, a private tub and the spa’s signature wrap each day. (Tip: Make reservations for any treatments or private tubs prior to arriving.)

I slept in one of the rooms in the old hotel, but only after delaying my exit from the mineral pools as long as possible. Climbing out and heading back to my room for the night was the only down side to my day in the desert.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer John Geary who makes his home in Vancouver, on Canada’s West Coast.

About the photos:
1: Kicking back on the porch at Ojo Caliente after a hearty breakfast in the Artesian restaurant.

2: Gateway to relaxation: the entrance to the spa treatment rooms, nestled next to high
desert rock.

3: Relaxing in one of the hot mineral pools under desert skies.

If you go:
Phone number for reservations, lodging and spa treatments: 1-800-222-9162 or 505-583-2233. Website: www.ojocalientespa.com

Like an annoying metronome, the wipers slap in time to Michael Buble’s rendition of Come Fly With Me as they clear the fresh cache of snow from our windshield. “What’s with this?” I say to my husband who’s sitting next to me in the driver’s seat of our rented Chevy. “I thought we’d be escaping this white stuff.” Although not crooning like Buble, I had ironically suggested this very idea to him a few weeks earlier. “Let’s ditch BC’s wet west coast and take off for some higher and drier ground. Santa Fe would fit the bill.” I had heard that this New Mexico destination at 7,000 feet boasted 300 days of annual sunshine and only 14 inches of precipitation. What were the odds we’d be rained on, let alone see snow?

Fortunately, unlike our Vancouver home base, the temperature patterns in this high desert oasis change on a dime. By the time we check our map and highlight a few must-sees, the wall of cloud has dissipated giving way to glorious Santa Fe rays.

Like the weather, change is no stranger to this culture-loving capital. We saunter around the Railyard, a modern upbeat addition that fringes the city’s classic core, and browse through the cluster of galleries that lure the more contemporary crowd. The fifty-acre plot is anchored by SITE Santa Fe, a warehouse-style venue that represents internationally-renowned artists. A short walk away is the upscale Sanbusco Market, hosting twenty-five chi chi shops. And on Tuesdays and Saturdays anything home grown and organic can be picked up in the popular Farmer’s Market. At the heart of it all, and bridging the past to the present is a historical depot and the Railrunnner, a commuter train that whisks Santa Feans to Albuquerque in just over an hour.

Bordering this area is downtown Santa Fe. “It’s sure not your typical metropolis,” I comment, as we veer onto the main road of Paseo De Peralta. “There’s not a high rise or a neon sign in sight.” The low-slung, flat-roofed adobe buildings appear to be hewn from New Mexico’s landscape as they rise from the ochre soil like giant sleeping camels. The curvaceous shapes, housing hip galleries, trendy boutiques, and amazing museums are linked together by sliver-thin streets. Our drive circumvents the twenty-square disorderly blocks and offers us brief glimpses into the busy vortex. We’ve heard that the best way to explore the interior grid is to get out our walking shoes. And that’s exactly what we do.

Like most visiting newbies, we start at the heart of it all, the plaza; a meeting ground that predates to the early 1700’s when the Spanish conquistadors first arrived. Although the surroundings have certainly been upgraded since those early days, it’s still a popular place to celebrate, schmooze and sell. The activities fans out from a pyramidal-type obelisk that commemorates the city’s rich culture and history. Towering evergreens rim the square’s perimeter and in shady comfort benches provide reprieve, musicians entertain, and local vendors display their goods: turquoise beads, silver bangles, splashy jewelry.

Sales pitches continue along the adjacent breezeway of the Palace of the Governors, where a line-up of indigenous craftspeople hawk their treasures. I walk away with more than my suitcase will hold.

We check out the interior gems of this historical haunt as well. The palace, and oldest civic building in continuous use, was constructed in 1610. It houses an excellent installation that spans the history of the Southwest and Santa Fe -everything from the Spanish Colonial War to tales of the wild west when Billy the Kid and Kit Carson rode into town. Up until this past May, it had been so chock-a-block full that eighty percent of the collection had to be stored. Now, hugging up to this divine depository is the New Mexico History Museum, a premier showcase that displays these irreplaceable collectibles. It’s a timely debut, with Santa Fe’s 400th birthday bash coming this Labor Day.

Other museums line up cheek to cheek with savvy shops, ethnic restaurants and over two hundred eclectic galleries. It’s a cultural melting pot that’s full of intrigue. We browse through the airy Georgia O’Keeffe Gallery and gaze at over a hundred and forty of this master’s incredible works, then venture through the Museum of Fine Arts, a Pueblo-Revival jewel that was founded in 1917.

Stone sculptures, wooden carvings and metal masterpieces flank the tree-lined street of acclaimed Canyon Road, and after a short drive up Museum Hill we’re captivated by five more forums that would appease any factoid. The Museum of International Folk Art boasts the world’s largest collection of whimsical figurines and truly brings a small world to life, while the adjacent Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian totally immerses us with indigenous culture. A scenic plaza links the two together and provides an awesome vista lookout of the Sangre de Cristo peaks.

We’re blown away by the same visual overload later in the day from our private patio at Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort and Spa. This chic retreat that nestles into the lush flora of the Tesuque Valley is only ten minutes from Santa Fe’s bustling throngs, yet feels light-years from civilization. It’s for this very reason that the first bishop of Santa Fe, Jean-Baptiste Lamy, came here more than a century ago. A chapel and humble retreat, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, still remain on the property as a legacy to his past. Today, the four hundred and fifty fabulous acres provide sublime pleasures for any luxury loving traveler. Some come for the award-winning spa, others for a trail ride in the hills and all for the reprieve; exquisite lodging, fine dining, silver service. What more could you ask for?

“Did you know there are half a dozen ski resorts within close range?” my husband asks. “And I hear we’re in for snow tomorrow.” It’s hard to believe that this destination offers the best of both worlds. From windswept mesas to snowy trails, it truly is The Land Of Enchantment. I make a mental note to bring a pair of skis on my return visit.

from: Viator

Where to stay:
Bishop’s Lodge Ranch Resort & Spa
1297 Bishops Lodge Road
Tel: (505) 983 6377
Toll free: (800) 419 0492
http://www.bishopslodge.com/

What to do:

Santa Fe Tourism http://www.santafe.org/
New Mexico Tourism http://www.newmexico.org/