Leslie Jones

Riviera Maya Magnetism

by Leslie Jones

Ominous clouds pass quickly overhead as torrential rains, thunder and lightening sporadically deliver an impressive show direct from the Mayan Gods. Pristine jungles, intriguing archeological sites and ecological reserves intermingle with a plethora of tourist developments spreading quickly throughout this region.

Rich in history and tradition, the natural surroundings are still intact, complete with sparkling white beaches and coral reefs suitable for world-class diving and snorkeling. Numerous sinkholes, called cenotes, offer cavern diving for those professionals seeking a more exotic adventure.

Extending over 95 miles along the northern coast of the Caribbean Sea, Highway 307 runs from Cancun south to the town of Tulum. While Cancun is the primary location to begin the journey after disembarking from a flight, the area south of this is where the true adventure begins.

Venturing south, I begin noticing small market stands and villages springing up on the sides of the road. Colorfully woven blankets begin to appear along with small shade-covered restaurants.

Here in late September, the crowds have diminished, there are no hurricanes presently forecasted and I’m eager to begin exploring a handful of the region’s highlights.

Xel Ha’s Exhilaration

A symphonic blend of blue, yellow, rainbow and iridescent shades of various shapes and sizes, dances in unison against the rocky shoreline as schools of hundreds of fish are traveling together, undeterred by their human visitors. Pushing off shore for my early afternoon snorkeling sojourn through the central lagoon, I’m immediately transported into another world; one I’m in no hurry to leave.

One of the lagoons of Xel-Ha Several hours later, while still completely ensconced within this underwater domain, time has ceased to exist. Only the shriveling of the skin on my fingers and lunchtime hunger pangs tempt me to slowly retreat back to land. The vivid colors of the world beneath will again come alive in my dreams later that evening, along with several evenings to come.

This ecological park is located along the southern portion of the Riviera Mayan coastline, 76 miles south of Cancun. Offering a multitude of natural, ecological and water-related activities, a series of lagoons, ancient Mayan caves and underground fresh water rivers all merge within this natural paradise.

The Mayans called this area Xel Ha (pronounced shell ha) which loosely translates to ‘where the water is born’ or ‘source of water’. Once used as a port and safe harbour while navigating the coastline, this was a designated spot where the Mayan Gods were said to have pooled their wisdom, dreams and appreciation of great beauty.

The Mayan Gods were so completely satisfied with their work, according to this legend, that they decided to let the mortals enjoy it, as well. They did, however, appoint the macaw, iguana and parrotfish as the guardians of Xel-Ha. All held in high esteem, they’re considered keepers of the sky, land and sea respectively.

Snorkeling in the placid lagoon is just one of many outdoor opportunities presenting themselves here at Xel-Ha. Walking along the park’s inspirational “Path of Consciousness”, I find myself sharing the sidewalk with large iguanas.

Beautiful in a primal way and quite harmless, it’s a respectful distance that suits both parties best. It’s decidedly wise to watch where I’m walking at all times here on the pathway. They don’t easily move to offer the right of way, especially when they’re busy sunning themselves.

The landscape is spectacular while traversing through mangrove habitats, near a fresh water river and by a series of rock formations complete with petroglyphs. The bird life is plentiful, as well, as I spy several egrets back in one of the quiet lagoons.

While hiking this trail, others are drifting down the nearby turquoise-hued river in small rafts. While some are chatting with others, many are completely silent, merely taking in these breathtaking surroundings around them.

At the end of the trail’s journey, Hammock Island patiently awaits for a quick afternoon siesta. Restaurants dot the area along with dolphin swimming excursions and additional snorkeling-related activities. This is truly a park for anyone with a child-like fascination with nature and genuine respect for its beauty.

Town of Tulum

Since it’s only a short 8-mile drive down to the Mayan ruins of Tulum, it makes sense to visit that location, as well. Tulum is well worth a visit just for its incredibly picturesque photo opportunities. I enjoy wandering around without the usual crowds to better enjoy the area’s peacefulness. Intuitively I sense that some powerful force still resides within these walls.

A small group of traditionally-dressed Mayan dancers perform in the central plaza just outside this ancient walled city. I begin climbing a long, rocky stairway leading to the entrance while a majestic castle slowly comes into view, perched high on a cliff top. The vivid turquoise hues of the Caribbean Sea lie just below.

Dancers in traditional Mayan dress Entering the grounds through a breach in its western wall, well-preserved ancient Mayan palaces, pristine foliage inspired gardens, intricate rockwork walls and sheer cliffs are all deemed impressive.

Passing by El Castillo (the Castle), Gran Palacio (Grand Palace) and Templo de los Dioses Descendientes (Temple of the Descending Gods), these are but a few of the many ancient buildings to view.

Thunderclouds soon beckon once again overhead; perhaps it’s best to call it a day. I’ve enjoyed the blue skies today here along the Riviera Maya. But I’m a mere visitor to a culture of another time and place.

The Mayan Gods remind me once again of their omnipotence as the first thunder clap echoes.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Leslie Jones who makes her home in California.

Photos by Leslie Jones:
1: One of the lagoons of Xel-Ha.
2: Tulum ruins by the Caribbean Sea.
3: Dancers in traditional Mayan dress prepare to perform.

Old San Juan Sunday: Puerto Rico’s Capital

by Leslie Jones

The aromas of tostones (fried plantains) and asopao (a traditional chicken-and-rice soup) drift out of local eateries. Tourists pause in front of colorful storefront displays, and a sea of pedestrians and cars moves past. Narrow cobblestone streets beckon in each direction I turn, while the sounds of salsa resonate from a nearby plaza, enticing me to move a little closer.

My longtime friend, Lori, and I are on the first port of call on a weeklong Caribbean cruise. It’s a crystal-clear Sunday afternoon in the old town district of San Juan, Puerto Rico.

The city of San Juan is made up of three distinct areas: Old San Juan, the beach and resort area, and outlying communities. Old San Juan, founded in 1508, is the second-oldest city in the Americas.

An infectious energy fills the air as the sounds of the park rotunda’s steel drums intensify. Children play nearby as adults gather to visit. Passing tourists stop to listen, snap a few photos and dance for a while.

Music is almost as vital to Puerto Ricans as the air they breathe. Folk music here possesses a passionate language all its own. Décima, seis, danza, plena, bomba, son, bolero, mambo, merengue and salsa are all popular in Puerto Rico. The country’s music and dance have been heavily influenced by Cuba and the Dominican Republic, as well as the United States.

Still dancing to the exhilarating beat, Lori and I meander through the narrow cobblestone corridors. We soon reach Calle del Cristo, a popular shopping street. The stores here are filled with clothing and jewelry bargains, tourist trinkets and local art.

At the end of one quiet corridor, a small, faded church with a decorative bell tower is guarded by tall iron gates. La Capilla de Cristo, the Chapel of Christ, was built as a memorial to a much-celebrated miracle. In 1753, a young boy participating in a festival horserace lost control of his horse and plunged over a precipice.

This landmark, with its Campeche paintings and ornate gold-and-silver altar, was erected in celebration of his miraculous survival. José Campeche (1701-1809) was the founder of Puerto Rican national painting.

Heading back toward the frenzied street activity one block up, I begin following the tantalizing aromas wafting from the area’s kitchens. Adobo and sofrito — blends of herbs and spices — offer many of the native foods a distinctive taste and color.

Adobo, a combination of peppercorns, oregano, garlic, salt, olive oil and lime juice or vinegar, is rubbed into meats before they are roasted. Sofrito, a mixture of onions, garlic, coriander and peppers browned in either olive oil or lard, is colored with achiote (seeds of the annatto tree), which gives a signature bright-yellow color to the island’s rice, soups and stews.

Similar to Spanish and Mexican cuisine, Puerto Rican cooking is a uniquely tasty blend of Spanish, African, native Taíno and American influences. Locally grown seasonings and ingredients such as coriander, papaya, cacao, loquat (a member of the apple/pear family) apio (a root vegetable) and plantains are used regularly. The locals often refer to their scrumptious cuisine as Cocina Criolla. Signature dishes include kidney stew, shrimp Creole and black-bean soup.

The narrow, winding cobblestone streets are influenced by Spanish architecture, with old stucco walls fronting colorful, tile-roofed buildings in a lively mixture of colonial blues, greens and yellows, with ornate balconies and heavy wooden doors.

Many homes and businesses gracefully open onto inner courtyards in the elegant style of Andalusia in southern Spain. As we climb higher, the waterfront glistens like a jewel down below.

When founded, in 1521, a massive wall was built around the city to protect it from its enemies. Nearby fortresses, including El Morro and El Arsenal, were erected, as well. Used as a stopover for ships from Spain, San Juan was built as a stronghold to prevent adversaries from taking control of the island.

A popular waterfront square, La Casita, has a weekend craft market, complete with jewelry, leather goods, homemade soaps and colorful prints of local landscapes. Across the street from the harbor lies the Casa Don Q Puerto Rico, which houses the Destilería Serrallés, a family-owned-and-operated rum distillery, established in 1865.

Don Juan Serrallés, the son of a Spaniard who settled in the area, produced his first few casks of rum using a still he imported from France. Today, more than a century later, a family member still presides over this company, which produces and distributes much of the rum sold on the island.

Casa Don Q offers both rum tastes and a historical perspective on the area’s rum-making industry. Large Puerto Rican sugarcane plantations began distilling rum in the 17th century and the rum was soon shipped to colonial America. Once America became a nation, rum was largely displaced by whiskey, which was distilled from grain grown on the American plains.

Almost a century later, the rum industry regained its former standing when the government created more rigid standards for producing, blending and aging rum, and distilleries were outfitted with modern, sanitary equipment.

These improvements, along with the severe whiskey shortage at the end of World War II and an aggressive marketing campaign, soon led to its reemergence in the States and beyond.

With our last sips of a refreshing rum punch and the end of the day approaching, we allow ourselves one final stop. The fountain outside the waterfront Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel & Casino offers us a pleasant spot to rest for a few last minutes to take in all that we have savored during the afternoon hours. We hail a taxi for the short distance to the cruise ship, now awaiting its arriving guests.

Old San Juan has offered a captivating gateway to the Caribbean and the many adventures that lie ahead. Its historical perspective, architectural charm and local artistic flair are all welcoming and refreshingly genuine.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes freelance travel writer Leslie Jones who makes her home in California.

About the photos:
1: San Juan’s Government building.
2: A sample of the unique architecture.
3: The fountain outside the Sheraton Hotel and Casino.

If You Go:

Old San Juan Tourism
http://welcome.topuertorico.org/city/sanjuan

Puerto Rico Tourism Company
www.gotopuertorico.com

The Corazon of Curacao

by Leslie Jones

Colourful hues of blue, orange and aquamarine tower over the waterfront’s edge with matching umbrellas serenely situated below. A vivacious outdoor farmer’s market offers a vast sea of exotic fruits and vegetables, many foreign to those visiting from afar. A vibrant display of papayas, melons and tomatoes are viewed along the nearby floating market now boasting its many offerings. Vendors often sail their boats over 35 miles from Venezuela every morning to sell their goods here in this port.

With much of its food imported, a multitude of international flavors, spiced with a uniquely local flair, are readily available. Dutch, Spanish, Creole and Indonesian-inspired favorites can all be sampled at Curacao’s famous old market “Marsche Bieuw”, located in downtown Willemstad. Possibilities include: bami (noodles with vegetables and meat), sate (skewered meat with Peanut sauce) and Yuana (stewed iguana) for those bravely seeking a truly authentic experience.
Even on a dismal looking day in Curacao, the vibrant sights, sounds and aromas are invigorating.

Curacao is largest of the ABC Islands, and Willemstad, the capital of the Netherlands Antilles, is home to almost two-thirds of the population.

Of the many possible origins of the word Curaçao, the most likely explanation stems from the Spanish calling the island “Corazon” (Heart). Famous Portuguese mapmakers adopted this word into their own language as “Curaçau” or “Curaçao.” Today, to many of the locals, the island is known as “Dushi Korsou” (Sweet Curaçao).

The architecture effortlessly blends its intriguing Dutch heritage along with an adornment of the Caribbean’s celebratory pastel shades. The people of Curacao are of Dutch, African, Spanish origins along with nearly every other race and nationality imaginable.

The native tongue, Papiamento, can be heard along the streets wherever you roam. A combination of Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, and African dialects, developed early on by the slaves—it became the main means of communication when the Dutch West Indies Company claimed the Island in 1634.

Punda, the colorful downtown sector, offering a wide selection of outdoor markets and shopping escapades, is best known for its Dutch colonial architecture, dating back from the 1760s. The new leaders began to build Fort Amsterdam, to protect their settlement. Soon, thereafter, the city began to flourish.

Combining tourist-oriented shops, local shopping areas and outside vendor fairs, Punda’s multifaceted personalities are all intriguing and well worth wandering through. Everywhere you look, on the outside walls of both homes and businesses, are a wide assortment of beautiful colors, making Willemstad one of the Caribbean’s favorite photographed cityscapes.

The story is that one of the early Dutch governors, under the context of medical advice, outlawed buildings being painted pure white. He was supposedly told that the reflection of the sun glaring off of them could cause major headaches, leading to eye inflammation or even blindness. After his death, it was discovered that he quite ironically had shares in a local paint company.

Looking across the bay, a quick ferry ride from Punda across the channel to Otrabanda transports you toward a long line of shopping stalls, old hotels and several wonderful restaurants. Look back and you’ll see the towering Queen Juliana Bridge, which allows the largest of ships to pass underneath to the oil refineries found back in the inner harbor, Schottegat. After oil was discovered at Lake Maracaibo in Venezuela in 1914, the Caribbean petroleum Company had decided to build a refinery on Curacao.

In 1707, building permits were granted for Otrobanda, “The Other Side.” The buildings along Otrobanda’s Breedestraat are similar to those in Punda, with commercial space downstairs and living quarters on the upper floors. Off Breedestraat, a grand residential neighborhood was built by those desirous of mansions reflecting their higher social standing.

By 1774 Otrobanda was as large as Punda and in the 18th and 19th centuries, free blacks began to migrate to the city. By the 20th century, Otrobanda had become a major cultural center for the rising black middle class. Many of the island’s notable politicians, professionals, artists, and musicians grew up there.

A mural in the waterfront’s colonial-inspired Gouverneur De Rouville Restaurant, where a delightful Caribbean lunch is served, again offers the rich hues of blue, green, earth-tone reds while telling stories of old. Be sure to try the plantain squash soup…it’s unbelievable with a hint of curry mixed in. Enjoy the views across the bay of Punda and take a look at the restaurant’s quaint secluded courtyard with a beautiful fountain out back.

Ordering a Curacao margarita appears to be appropriate here so naturally lunch includes one. Curacao, a liquor known best for its blue-colored dye, is now a generic term for liquor flavored with bitter oranges.

If you have the chance, travel to the Curacao liquor distillery, just a short tour or taxi ride away, to gain a better perspective on the area’s liquor making industry. It’s a great place to pick up a few small gifts, gain a little history and sample numerous flavors of rum all in one inclusive stop.

While heading back to town, you’ll pass through Scharloo and Pietermaai, home to a wealth of gorgeous restored mansions. These two suburbs are listed along with Willemstad on the UNESCO World Heritage List, commemorating their unique value to the world’s cultural and natural heritage.

Museums plentifully abound in and around Willemstad’s many unique sectors. The Curacao Maritime Museum, the Jewish Cultural-Historical Museum housed in the oldest continuously operating Jewish congregation in the Western Hemisphere’s Mikve Israel Emanuel Synagogue, and the Museum Kura Hulanda, offering an insightful overview of the one-time extensive slave trade of the islands.

The day ventures by much too quickly, as usual, as the hour approaches to re-embark on our cruise ship. Time to move on to new ports, however, the Corazon of Curacao remains alive and well in your mind long after you leave.

About the author:

This week’s guest freelance travel writer is Leslie Jones who make her home in California.

The photos:

1: The floating market along Punda’s waterfront. Leslie E. Jones photo.
2: Colourful architecture commonly seen throughout Willemstad. Lori S. Fisher photo.
3: Ferry crossing between Punda and Otrabanda. Leslie E. Jones photo

The Enchantment of California’s Central Coast

by Leslie Jones

The rugged Santa Lucia Mountains gracefully tumble down to the Pacific Ocean along California’s Central Coast. Towering high overhead, their majestic size safely guards many secrets of this intriguing area’s cultural and historical past. Rolling hills of gold, visualized in highly-esteemed California author John Steinbeck’s novels, gracefully mesh with nearby panoramic ocean vistas.

From a vantage point high up on this coastal range, Morro Rock is visible in the distance while just north, along the coast, stands Hearst Castle, also known as “The Enchanted Hill”. A world-renowned and heavily visited location for close to a million tourists each year, this is just one of many must-sees along California’s majestic coastline.

Situated half way between Los Angeles and San Francisco, the lure of Big Sur’s southern coast offers a gleaming assortment of outdoor and cultural jewels. From world-famous Hearst Castle and nearby historic missions, to the elephant seal rookeries and the immensity of Morro Rock, found a bit further to the south, this southern portion of historic Highway One is overflowing with outdoor pursuits and scenic displays.

Historic Highway One
Considered a National Scenic Byway, it’s one that is recognized by the U.S. Department of Transportation for its archeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational and scenic qualities. Officially honored as an All-American Road, it has features that don’t exist anywhere else in the U.S. and are scenic enough to be considered tourist destinations themselves.

The views around each turn are breathtaking with deep valleys and long stretches of isolated beach. When California’s scenic Highway One was completed in 1937, it offered the opportunity for travelers around the world to visit Hearst Castle and other prized destinations nearby.

Hearst’s Dream
Hearst’s dream began in 1865 when George Hearst, a wealthy miner, purchased 40,000 acres of ranchland in the area. His only son, William Randolph Hearst eventually inherited the land from his mother. By then the ranch had grown into 250,000 acres.

Originally known as “Camp Hill,” the surrounding wilderness offered a place for the family and their friends to enjoy camping trips. With the help of famed architect Julian Morgan, their collaboration escalated into what has become one of the world’s greatest architectural dreams.

The vast majority of those who visit the Hearst San Simeon State Historical Monument (Hearst Castle) each year never stop to admire the historic village of San Simeon, just across the road. Old Spanish-style buildings, an historic general store and the nearby abandoned schoolhouse share intriguing stories of long ago.

The economy of San Simeon itself was enhanced by the support of William Randolph Hearst and his ranch hands. Spanish-style homes were built along the shore for Hearst employees.

When Hearst died in 1951, the family donated a plot of land on the beach to be used as a day facility. Named William Randolph Hearst Memorial Park, there’s a plaque dedicated to him at the entrance. Dedicated by the County of San Luis Obispo, it honors the memory of him as a distinguished publisher, American patriot and public benefactor.

Mission San Antonio
On the inland side of the majestic Santa Lucia Mountains, between the Hearst Castle and US Highway 101, lies a beautiful valley and mission. Mission San Antonio de Padua, the third mission established in the California system, also has historic Hearst connections.

The interior of the Mission’s long corridor offers an excellent historical perspective on those who have lived in the area. A museum sends you back to the days of the Salinan Indians, the Hearst Family, Mexican and Spanish rulings of California. Take the time to venture through this museum…the displays are incredible and the narratives describe a long, historical lineage.

In the late 1880s, small farms were consolidated into large cattle ranches and, in 1920, William Randolph Hearst purchased as much local land as possible. Later, the Hearst Foundation financed one of several restorations in 1949. The land was then traded to the U.S. Government and today it lies well-preserved within a military base.

Elephant Seals of Piedras Blancas
Although hunted almost to extinction for their oil-rich blubber, elephant seals are found in large numbers near Piedras Blancas, along the southern range of Big Sur, near San Simeon.

Coming ashore to form colonies for a few months out of the year, they give birth to their young during their stay. There are now areas of the surrounding beaches that are literally covered with these massive creatures during the early spring months. Thousands venture to this area each year to view them and their young.

Morro Rock
Another one of Highway One’s world-renowned locations is Morro Rock, easily found on the outskirts of Morro Bay. Peregrine Falcons, considered endangered species, nest on the top and only the Chumash Indians are allowed to climb, on occasion, for ceremonial purposes.

As one of nine sisters of extinct volcano peaks in the area, stretching from Morro Bay down to San Luis Obispo, Morro Rock is considered the “Gibraltar of the Pacific.” Standing at 576 feet tall, its immensity and scenic setting are awe-inspiring.

Surfers catch the waves of the day just below Morro Rock and a multitude of otters, pelicans and sea lions intermingle with the boats that head through the bay’s entrance. The long stretch of sand, known as “the strand”, is a favorite beach walking location.

The entire Morro Bay Estuary is well worth exploring. Kayaking back into the inner bay offers a peaceful sojourn. A natural history museum, located on a perch high above the estuary, offers educational insights into the entire area. Each January, a popular bird festival is held in and around the Morro Bay Estuary. Hundreds of bird species are viewed and counted each year.

California’s Central Coast is historically intriguing, brimming with panoramic views enjoyed around each turn. Visit the museums and missions, enjoy the plethora of wildlife and wildflowers, and relish in the coast’s untamed beauty.

About the author:

This week Traveling Tales welcomes Leslie Jones, a freelance travel writer who makes her home in California.

About the photos:
1: The historic schoolhouse at San Simeon.
2: Mission San Antonio de Padua.
3: Morro Rock, “The Gibraltar of the Pacific.”