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Traveling Tales

Travel articles and information

Barbara Barton Sloane

Curacao, Where Northern Europe meets the Southern Caribbean

by Barbara Barton Sloane

“Blanch your plantains!” our instructor commands in a no-foolin’-around voice. Blanch? “What does blanch mean?” I furtively whisper to Julia, my partner in this off-the-wall adventure. You see, we were cooking for our supper in Angelica’s Kitchen where our group of intrepid travelers has come for a lesson in traditional cuisine. Having already had a rather lengthy lesson in the art of knife-handling, and inhaling the ambrosial aromas wafting forth from boiling cauldrons, we looked forward to an evening that would end in a memory-making meal or – at the very least- an edible one.

A group of us, journalists all, are visiting Curacao, an island rich in history. Settled by natives of South America, in 1499 the Spanish arrived and, in 1634, the Dutch defeated them to stake their claim to the island. It is the largest and most populous of the three ABC islands of the Lesser Antilles: Aruba, Bonaire and Curacao. It is under 3 hours flight time from Miami and a mere 35 miles north of Venezuela.

Bon Bini!

Curacao WillemstadWhat makes Curacao unique and special among the Caribbean islands? Naturally there’s the transparent turquoise sea, the soft white sand, the ubiquitous palm trees swaying in the breeze. So, the difference? In a word: Authenticity. And, accomplishing the seeming impossible, Curacao still feels undiscovered, almost like an exclusive hideaway that only you were smart enough to find. It has a heritage both European and African. Spanish, Dutch, British, African and Jewish settlers have each added their own distinct flavor and today more than 50 nationalities are represented here. On my visit I heard a profusion of languages and islanders frequently greeted us with a lusty Bon Bin! which means welcome in Papiamentu, the local language.

We took a tour of Willemstad, Curacao’s capital city and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Row upon row of candy-colored houses – pink, green, yellow, turquoise – gave the town a pretty, fairytale look. The homes featured pitched gables, shady verandas, jalousie windows and many were covered with cascading bougainvillea, a flowering plant that’s considered good luck. In fact, on New Year’s Eve, people use the flowers to make a fragrant water to wash down their houses, thus insuring a fortuitous new year.

Orange is the new….well, Orange

At least on this day. The people of Curacao wear many bright colors but on April 30 of each year, it’s orange or nothing. The bright hue is the national color of The Netherlands and this date marks the Queen’s birthday, so Celebration Time is On! The atmosphere was festive as we danced in the street to the rhythms of calypso, meringue, tango, reggae and salsa. Although I found myself with not a stitch of orange clothing, I joined the thousands of revelers and made do with a bright, exotic orange flower stuck behind my ear. It worked.

Taking the Plunge

curacao beachAfter the swinging, hectic celebration of Queen’s Day, I awoke to the sound of the ocean softly beckoning outside my window. It was a call I had to answer, opting for a day of lazing on sparkling white sand of the iconic Avila Hotel and trying out my new snorkel gear. The water was warm as a bath and of a blue so luminous it defied description, making the view below a colorful romp with the myriad fishes that swim near the shore. Snorkeling is right up my particular alley – not scary, yet allowing me to feel I’m doing something really adventurous. However, for those of you who want to delve deeper, you should know that Curacao is a scuba diving paradise, among the best in the world with 165 dive locations, and a chance to view endangered coral reefs and ancient ship wrecks. That evening, we dined at Belle Terrace, Avila’s seaside restaurant, serenaded by a trio playing traditional island songs and sitting under a huge silver globe. Can that really be the moon? Yes, it was.

During colonial times, a good part of the merchant class that moved to Curacao was comprised of Sephardic Jews looking for religious freedom. Our tour included a visit to The Jewish Cultural Museum which housed a fascinating display of objects illustrating the customs and traditions of these early settlers and the history of a community going back hundreds of years. The museum is a part of the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere – Mikve Israel Emanuel – a wondrous building to behold.

kura hurlanda museumOur stay at the Kura Hulanda Hotel was special. Our rooms were furnished with hand-carved mahogany and teak furniture and was surrounded by attractive bluestone walkways, boutiques, restaurants and sculpture gardens, all done in 18 th and 19 th century Dutch colonial style.

There are two spectacular pools, including a grotto surrounded by natural rock formations and fed by a calming waterfall. On its site is the Kura Hulanda Museum, a beautifully-curated, anthropological gem that focuses on the predominant cultures of Curacao, exhibiting the trans-Atlantic slave trade in its totality. There is a vast collection of artifacts from Continental Africa, the largest of its kind in the Caribbean. We found one of the more remarkable pieces in the museum’s garden – a standing woman sculpture, one side of her face beautiful and beguiling, and the other side displaying the continent of Africa.

Fun for the Whole Family

If you’d like to venture into a cavern, take a tour of Hoto Caves. They are open daily except Monday. Guided tours will take the family through the stalactite and stalagmite-filled rooms, several of which include pools and waterfalls.

A definite winner with the kids, the Sea Aquarium is one of the Caribbean’s finest marine exhibits. There are local fish, coral and sponges but it is the outdoor tanks with sharks, sea turtles and stingrays that really captivate. Want to swim with the fishes? At the Curacao Dolphin Academy, you can swim, snorkel and even dive with these special creatures.

Pull your head up out of that sugary white sand and take the family to the Curacao Ostrich Farm with a population of over 600 birds, one of the biggest farms outside of Africa. Kids (of all ages) are fascinated to view how ostriches live and breed.

As our Curacao travels came to an end, I’m happy to report that at Angelica’s Kitchen I did learn to blanch and, in fact, all of my cooking buddies did a great job with their assigned dishes. Cooking together, messing up, laughing a lot, making new friends, and ultimately turning out a darn good meal is an experience I’d highly recommend. Leaving Angelica’s we felt sated, convivial, and very Bon-Bini-ed – a memorable Curacao experience!

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SIDEBAR

Hotels:

Avila Hotel (from $140/night)
www.avilahotel.com

Hotel Kura Hulanda (from $135/night)
www.kurahulanda.com

Restaurants:

Moon Restaurant (dinners $15-$45)
www.mooncuracao.com

Jaanchie’s (dinners $14-20)

To Do:

Angelica’s Kitchen ($105 per person)
www.angelicas-kitchen.com

Jewish Historical Cultural Museum
www.snoa.com

GETTING THERE: 

American Airlines has 5 daily flights to Curacao via Miami from as low as $154.00

Photos courtesy of Sloane Travel Photography

  1. Willemstad
  2. The Sea at Curacao
  3. Sculpture from the Kura Hulanda Museum

Viking Longship Launching in Amsterdam

by Barbara Barton Sloane

A 17th Century Amsterdam Canal Biking, busing, tramming or hoofing it, Amsterdam is a city easy to get around. It has beauty, charm, and hundreds of canals connected by 500 pretty bridges – and flowers everywhere! These 17th century canals enjoy the honor of having been added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2010 and their grassy banks are perfect paths for a romantic stroll.

Recently I had the great good luck to visit Amsterdam and attend an historic launching of ten new Viking Longships as this most award-winning line expands into a new era of European river cruising. This was an auspicious occasion because, for the first time ever, a river cruise company was launching ten ships all at once – and I was there to witness it!

As that wise gentleman, Mark Twain, once said, “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines and sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

That is precisely what happens on a Viking Longship. Although my stay aboard the Viking Aegir was brief, I nonetheless was able to debark a few times and explore parts of Amsterdam, experiencing some of its special treasures and causing me perhaps to dream? Yes, indeed I did.

Amsterdam – My Short but Sweet Visit

The City of Amsterdam In Amsterdam’s medieval center, there stands the Gothic basilica Nieuwe Kerk, the coronation church for Dutch royalty. Its intricately carved oak altar was stunning and the stained-glass windows handsome despite no sun shining through that day. I sat in a pew hoping that perhaps I’d hear some notes from the massive, gilded organ. After some 20 minutes or so, my optimism was rewarded with the thunderous peal of Bach’s organ fugue in G minor. Could there be a more perfect end to my church visit?

Another outing took me to Museum Het Schip (the ship), one of the highlights of the Amsterdam School of Architecture, so called because its shape somewhat resembles a ship. Built in 1919-1921, three monumental social housing blocks designed by architect Michel de Klerk are viewed as a masterpiece and symbolize the solidarity and emancipation of the working class at the beginning of the last century. No longer were the poor condemned to live in basements and slums but now had safe, affordable housing. The Amsterdam School paid a great deal of attention to the applied arts, designing in such a versatile and expressive way that the style is often seen as the Dutch version of Art Deco. Inside, there’s a charming little post office and a floor plan that is completely decorated with furniture and objects that were available to the working class in the twenties. Remarkable is the fact that this design by famous artists and architects was to be found in these modest working class houses.

At Concertgebouw, (Royal Concert Hall), opened in 1882, I attended a concert of Brahms, Chausson and Ravel with violinist Tosca Opdam and pianist Victor Stanislavsky, their music at times bold and regal, other times poignant and tender; at all times rendered gorgeously by this world-class duo.

Amsterdam Street Scene

Although our ship had no plans to stray afar of the ceremonial goings-on, we did take a brief cruise down the Ijsselmeer River to Hoorn, an ancient harbor town founded in 716. This is a pretty community with monumental building facades and inviting sidewalk cafes. Sadly, no sidewalk sitting this day….waaaay too cold. However, the experience of leisurely making our water-way down the river was picturesque.

Ship Christening and Launching

The Viking PrestigeThe ceremony of christening and launching a ship is based on traditions thousands of years old – to protect the ship and all who sail her. A Babylonian narrative dating from the 3 rd millennium BC describes the completion of a ship:

“Openings to the water I stopped; I searched for cracks and the wanting parts I fixed; Three sari of bitumen I poured over the outside; To the gods I caused oxen to be sacrificed.”

Nooooo, let’s have none of that. The ceremony for the ten new Viking Longships was dignified, decorous and dazzling.

The Godmother

For more than 4,000 years it has been a maritime tradition for each ship entering service to have a ceremonial godmother who is entrusted with the guidance of the ship to her destinations. In Amsterdam, there were ten godmothers, one for each of the ships to be launched. Distinguished, remarkable women are historically honored to become godmothers and this year was no exception. The group was chosen from representatives of a number of Viking’s valued partners and significant port and privileged-access destinations. They gallantly smashed champagne bottles against the ships’ hulls, after which there was a post-christening reception held in the Amsterdam cruise terminal. We guests then enjoyed a divine dinner and a maiden voyage around the Amsterdam harbor.

As evening drew near, I thought on the words of a poem by Hendrik Marsman called “Memory of Holland:”

The sky hangs low and slowly the sun
by mists of all colors is stifled and greyed,
and in all the regions the voice of the water
with its endless disasters is feared and obeyed.

With the Viking Longships’ meaningful and heartfelt ceremonies and the godmothers’ blessings, there will be no endless disasters! The mists were banished, the greyed skies cast out and at close of day, in the far distance – a rainbow.

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More Information: www.vikingrivercruises.com

Photos by Barbara Barton Sloane

1. A 17th Century Amsterdam Canal
2. The City of Amsterdam
3. Amsterdam Street Scene
4. The Viking Prestige

Turkey’s Beautiful Black Sea

by Barbara Barton Sloane

“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.
–Jacques Yves Cousteau

A world of wonder is what you find at Turkey’s Black Sea. The region is rich in heritage, in sights, in culture – from stunning landscapes and natural wonders to World Heritage sites – here in all its ancient and mesmerizing glory. Standing on top of Al-Petri Mountain, one may wonder why such an iridescent blue sea is called the black sea. It’s thought that the name was given to it by sailors and pirates who were struck by its dark appearance when the sky turned leaden with storm clouds. Known by another name as well, the ancient Greeks called it the Scythian Sea as they plundered shipwrecks and made wine goblets from sailors’ skulls. Happily, on a recent visit I enjoyed my wine served in a pretty crystal glass as I gazed out over a perfect Blue sea. Reasons to make this your next go-to vacation spot are many. Here are just a few of them:

Ancient History

The coastal town of Amsara, built atop the ancient port of Sesamus, has a Roman bridge, Byzantine city walls, 14 th century Genoese forts and historic mosques; inland is the town of Kastamonu with its 12 th century castle. While there, we made a side-trip to Bafra to view some pretty imposing excavations which date back to the Iron Age Hittite civilization.

Modern History

Samsun is the town where Mustafa Kemal Ataturk drew up plans for what was to become the modern Turkish Republic. The hotel where he stayed honors him in its incarnation as the Gazi Museum, and a villa that once belonged to Ataturk is on the outskirts of Trabzon. There we found colorful gardens with exotic flora: passion flowers, mullein, hornbeam and sweet chestnut.

World Heritage

The Black Sea has some of Turkey’s most scenic World Heritage sites, and one of the best is the town of Safranbolu with its Ottoman konaks (mansions) made of timber and stone. Soon two more landmarks of the region will become World Heritage Sites: the Sumela Monastery and the Genovese Trade Routes’ Trading Posts and Fortifications.

Archeology

Named for the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul, Trabzon’s Hagia Sophia dominates the town. It was dizzying to gaze up to the cathedral’s vaulted ceilings soaring heaven-ward and then, look down at the intricate mosaic work beneath our feet. Another celestial experience was journeying to the Sumela Monastery built 4,000 feet up in the cliffs of Mt. Mela. Begun in the 4th century by Greek monks, it was ultimately completed in the 14 th century – a very important archeological highlight of the Black Sea.

trabzon

Sinop is the only naturally sheltered harbor on the Black Sea, and has been a port for 1,000 years. Here you’ll find the commanding Sinop Castle. It was constructed in the 7 th Century BC with walls 10 feet thick and 100 feet high. Sinop takes its name from the Amazon queen Sinop and wandering through this special town, it still after millennia, exudes warrior-like strength.

Eco-Tourism

A really good way to experience this region is by road tripping. After all, the Black Sea is home to no less than 16 protected nature reserves in the provinces of Artvin, Balikesir, Bolu, Duzce, Samsun, Sinop and Zonguldak. The goal of these areas is to preserve endangered species of flora and fauna. The Highlands here are covered with fir, spruce, cedar, oak and elm trees as well as flowers like snowdrops, wild azalea and forest rose.

Local Culture

The easternmost outpost on the Black Sea is Artvin, famous throughout Turkey for its many festivals celebrating regional cultures and featuring music, food, costumes, dancing and more.

Most festivals take place in late spring, summer and early autumn. This past summer I had the good luck to be in Artvin during a festival featuring such memorable activities as the famed bull wrestling competition. It’s for certain there are not too many places in the world where one can view this extraordinary contest. Mano-a-mano wrestling competitions followed the bull thing but it wasn’t nearly as exciting! A colorful part of this festival is the traditional dance troupes decked-out in vivid, ethnic costumes. While here, add to your not-to-be-missed-list the Karagol-Sahara National Park with its deep forests and glass-like lakes.

Adventure

Lake Uzungol is in Zigana’s Kalkanli Mountains. The lake is extraordinary at 3,200 feet long and surrounded by pine forests and typical village houses that have now become popular with campers, hikers, and fishermen. Near the Georgian border is the rugged Yusufeli conservation area, remote and historic with Georgian and Armenian churches. Feel a need to get out on the water? There’s white water rafting on neighboring Coruh River.

Turkish Tea

In Rize, coffee is a hallmark of Turkish culture, but tea is the essential part of daily life and the town is the center of Turkey’s tea production. I saw vast, terraced plantations of both black and green tea and in a bazaar, a nice Turkish lady made me a cup, taking the time to brew tea leaves in boiling water which she then served me in a delicate, clear glass to show the deep red color and to transmit the heat to my hand.

Black Sea Cuisine

hamsiHow can we leave out Hamsi? This small fish is similar to the anchovy and in the region it is abundant. In fact, there are no less than forty different dishes made with hamsi, including desserts. Let’s just say it’s an acquired taste and leave it at that. More to my liking, there’s the Akcabat Kofte Hazelnut center in Ordu and in July, it hosts a Golden Hazelnut Festival.

“The trouble with the Black Sea weather is that you can’t trust it,” says Ihsan Cetin, an official in Ankara’s Tourism Ministry, “but if you’ve ever been swimming in this sea, you won’t want to swim anywhere else. Because it is so clear and sweet, you wouldn’t mind drinking it!” Sweet, indeed – the entire Black Sea region. Plan a visit soon.

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To Know If You Go:

Turkey Tourist Board – www.goturkey.com

Photos courtesy of Sloane Travel Photography

Sea Dreaming on the Amalfi Coast of Italy

Story and photos by Barbara Barton Sloane

Our truest life is when we are in our dreams, awake
– Henry David Thoreau

sea dream yachtI was awake yet was, most definitely, in a dream – the “SeaDream” Yacht to be precise. Cruising along the Amalfi Coast of Italy, heading toward ports I’d only fantasized about, it was a pinch-myself moment. Yes, this was true life. Let the dreaming begin!

This year marks the 10th anniversary of the SeaDream Yacht Club, whose motto is “It’s yachting, not cruising.” That it is. It’s a family owned company, conceived by Norwegian entrepreneur Atle Brynestad with a maximum of 112 guests on board and catered to by an award-winning crew of 95, insuring that you will be “Splendidly Spoiled” and receive the most incomparable service at sea, bar none. In fact, Conde Nast Traveler magazine recently ranked SeaDream number one in the category of small ships with a higher score than any other cruise ship regardless of category.

Cruising is my favorite mode of travel, and in that I’m not alone; even the esteemed Sir Francis Drake said “It isn’t that life ashore is distasteful, but life at sea is better.” Think about it: cruising lets you share a front porch with a billionaire, your view the very same beautiful sea, blue sky and if you’re lucky, cavorting porpoises and the occasional leaping whale. The boarding process always puts happy, fluttering butterflies inside me, and being greeted before mounting the gangplank by a handsome crew member proffering a celebratory glass of champagne set exactly the right tone. It just got better from there when, upon boarding, we stepped into an already-in-progress festive cocktail party hosted by the Captain.

Every stateroom has a large window with an ocean view and the color scheme echoes that scene with navy, white and beige. My bathroom was taupe-colored marble, and my bed was dressed in white Belgian linen. There was champagne cooling in a silver bucket, a comfy sofa and a large flat screen TV. Heaven.

On board, the SeaDream offers a host of amenities and fun activities. Yoga is offered daily, there’s a well-equipped fitness center, and a Thai-themed spa, the only one of its kind at sea. From the moment you rise, your dining is going to be a fine gourmet experience. I looked forward each morning to dining al fresco on the pretty upper deck, and evenings, as I entered the dining room, I was asked if I wished to be alone or if I felt a bit sociable. I usually chose the latter and had the opportunity to meet my attractive and appealing neighbors. After dinner, we typically sauntered up to the Top of the Yacht Bar where we were serenaded with our favorites by a piano or guitar. When in port, one can choose from a choice of custom-designed land adventures. If one stays on board, this vessel offers experiences unique to cruising: the yacht is able to lower a water sports platform which allows guests to enjoy swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, windsurfing and jet skiing!
Balinese Dream Beds Night Deck

Another distinctive feature of this yacht is their luxurious on-deck Balinese Dream Beds. Each afternoon, this is where I could be found. I’d raise the bed for an unobstructed view and simply relax, watching the world go by, a favorite libation close at hand. At night, one has the option of sleeping under the stars on one of these beds made up with a fluffy down comforter and pillows. “Fly me to the moon and let me play among the stars….” Voila: your own private star-studded playground, an oasis of perfect tranquility and an experience like nothing before.

In true yachting fashion, our SeaDream cruise took us to delighful, intimate yachting harbors where sometimes large cruise ships cannot go. We visited Positano, with its Flavio Gioia Square and the Church of Our Lady of the Assumption housing a Byzantine black Madonna with Child. Another port was the mythical island of Sardinia. In Corsica, its rugged mountains and lakes of glass offered breathtaking SeaDream at Anchorphoto opps. From Amalfi’s harbor, a car took us up narrow, twisting and winding, white-knuckle roads to Ravello, one of the most famous spots on the Amalfi Coast and home in the past to Greta Garbo, Gore Vidal and D.H. Lawrence. Romantic Sorrento offered a high-point lookout where we could spy the ruins of Pompeii. Finally, one day we heard a crew member shout: “Here comes Capri!” Now I ask you, can there ever be a happier, more thrill-producing call?

John Steinbeck once said “The Amalfi Coast bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.” One can say the very same of the SeaDream Yacht. Aboard, the experience is not quite real but once you’ve debarked, its siren call of style, quality and casual perfection beckons you back – again and again.

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FOR MORE INFORMATION

  • www.SeaDream.com
  • info@SeaDream.com
  • Tel: 305-631-6100

Photos Courtesy The SeaDream Yacht Club

1. On Board the SeaDream
2. The Balanese Sea Bed
3. The SeaDream at Anchor

The Frolicking Festivals of Summer in Germany

By Barbara Barton Sloane

August in Germany: Frankfurt, Bad Nauheim and Kassel to be precise, a propitious, tourist-perfect time.

I was lucky to be there last year in August and experienced happy events in each of these cities. In Frankfurt, the city plays host to its annual arts and culture happening – the Museum Embankment Festival. It is Europe’s largest cultural festival featuring countless arts and crafts stalls, live music, culinary highlights from around the world, and Frankfurt’s fabulous museum row. This year the Festival occurs on August 23-25.

In Bad Nauheim, August is a special time because that’s when the European Elvis Festival takes place. More on that later.

In Kassel this same month and occurring every five years, the city holds the world-renowned Documenta phenomenon, presenting contemporary artwork of international artists in its most diverse manifestations. Not being sure I can return in 2017, I was immensely gratified to be able to experience Documenta in 2012.

Frankfurt
We landed in Frankfurt and I must confess that finding world-class art and a plethora of fabulous museums was not highly anticipated. But – surprise – it’s all here – in abundance! Frankfurt am Main is a bustling metropolis in the heart of Europe. Here you can find over 200 banks, more than any other German city, as well as more than 60 museums and art galleries.

A great walking city, it blends tradition and modernity and its significance as a bustling international trade and finance center dates to the Middle Ages. The cultural scene is as international as the city itself with numerous stages, award-winning opera, and countless open-air festivals. The city has an imposing, modern skyline, romantic river-scapes, and an historic half-timbered Old Town. All this contributes to making Frankfurt shine slightly differently from every angle, just as a jewel shines differently when looked at from all sides.

Stadel Museum
Stadel Museum

A visit to the Stadel took me aback. This venerable, 200-year-old museum has recently reopened after a major three-year remodeling which, from the exterior, is no more than a modest, if not unique, polka-dotted lawn.

A subterranean plan was used to provide almost 100,000 more square feet of space to house post-war and contemporary art. Nothing short of stunning, it’s unique with an utterly fresh feel. It has to be seen to get it. Suffice it to say I found it enchanting. During August this year, this museum has two major exhibits: Hans Thoma, known as “The German People’s Favorite Painter,” featuring a major retrospective on his life’s work, and Piero Manzoni, one of the most important artists of Italian post-war art.

I said I was lucky to be in Germany at this particular time and yes, still another reason: a major Jeff Koons retrospective, covering his 30-year career, was happening at the Liebieghaus Sculpture Museum. Joyous, kitschy, (think Michael Jackson and Bubbles), the show was mounted so as to enter into a dialogue with the historic building and its collection spanning 5,000 years of sculpture. How do you do that? By displaying Koons’ pieces in the same room as, say, Renaissance and Baroque pieces and, somehow, having it work beautifully.

No visit to Frankfurt is complete without checking out the Kleinmarkthall, a food hall extraordinaire. The stalls are fabulous, carrying exotic fruits and vegetables, some never before seen. There were 8 different kinds of potatoes, 12 kinds of tomatoes, lots of unusual mushrooms and fresh herbs of every kind. Do allow the vendors to pick your product for you as they take enormous pride in making everything look perfect and beautiful. The famed Dijon Les Halles has nothing over this great market.

Bad Nauheim

Elvis memorial
Elvis memorial

Since 2002 each August the city of Bad Nauheim hosts the European Elvis Festival and this year it will be held on August 15-18. Why, you may ask. When the “King of Rock ‘n Roll” started his military service in 1958 it was in—bingo!—Bad Nauheim. Tours take visitors on a journey back in time to the ‘50s and ‘60s and to his European home. Rock ‘n roll becomes the sound and spirit of the whole town and people from all over the world celebrate the legendary star with famous bands, movies, exhibits; also Cadillac and Harley parades. If you think, however, that Bad Nauheim’s only claim to fame is Elvis you would be wrong. Back in 1911 the town achieved nationwide attention for the healing power of its springs. Today Bad Nauheim is designated a top location for medical science and research.

Kassel
Kassel is a diverse city with a more than 1,000-year history. Three forces come together here: iconic architecture of the 1950s, an important historical background, and celebrated art. Drawing almost a million visitors over a 3-day period, Documenta, its famed art festival, was a mind-blowing experience because much of it was cutting-edge, unconventional, and avant-garde. One of my favorite projects was created in 1982 by the German artist Joseph Beuys – an installation that is now permanent. Called a social sculpture, it consists of the artist having planted 7,000 oak trees around the city of Kassel. Beuys explains that the tree is an element of regeneration which, in itself, is a concept of time. He believes that the oak is appropriate because it is a slow-growing tree of solid heartwood. This undertaking was enormous in scope and at the time met with some controversy.

Joseph Beuys - part of the 7,000 oaks exhibit
Joseph Beuys – part of the 7,000 oaks exhibit

To that, the artist said “I not only want to stimulate people, I want to provoke them.” He achieved his goal most effectively. Mark your calendars for Documenta, August, 2017! In the meantime, you should know that a permanent exhibit of Beuys work is installed at the Neue Galerie in Kassel.

Stop by the Brueder Grimm (Brothers Grimm) Museum – a delight with fairytale drawings housed in the original home and much of the furnishings original to that time.

If it’s a beautiful day, visit Bergpark. A mountain park, it is replete with streams, waterfalls and bridges – a Kassel treasure.

When I left home to visit Germany, I wasn’t thinking festivals or celebration or gaiety. I wasn’t thinking culture or art. Now, all these inspiring thoughts and feelings are a-swirl in my soul. They’ll be there for a long, long time to come.

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If You Go:

More Information
www.germany.travel
www.frankfurt-tourismus.de
www.kassel-marketing.de
www.bad-nauheim.de

Photos

1. Stadel Museum – polka dotted lawn.
2. Monument honouring Elvis in Bad Nauheim
3. Joseph Beuys – a social sculpture involving some of the 7,000 oaks in Kassel

In Aruba, Life’s a Beach

By Barbara Barton Sloane

In every outthrust headland, in every curving beach, in every grain of sand
there is the story of the earth.
–Rachel Carson

Eagle Beach ArubaSome people love a parade, some love a rainy night. I love a beach. After a long, hard winter, I was so ready for the beach. Aruba, here I come!

Aruba, called “The One Happy Island,” is a 19 mile-long island of the Lesser Antilles in the southern Caribbean Sea and just 15 miles from Venezuela. Together with Bonaire and Curacao it forms a group referred to as the ABC islands. As its turquoise waters collide against the desert-like terrain of the north shore, Aruba is celebrated as one of the most revisited destinations in the Caribbean. Luckily, it is located below the hurricane belt and has a temperature of 82-degree days year round; in fact, it has the most sunny days in all of the Caribbean.

Aruba beachBeaches here are spectacular – Eagle Beach has been named one of the top 10 in the world. On my visit, it seemed that the beach was a part of everything I did – from water activities to riding a horse on the sand to lunches, cocktails and dinners, all – where else? On the beach.

The Aruba government has launched a $350 Million project upgrading sites in Oranjestad, the capital, as well as building Linear Park, which will be the longest of its kind in the islands; it will create an accessible, scenic link between the airport and resorts along Palm Beach. To include bike paths, pedestrian paths, kiosks and an abundance of trees, this will be a location where visitors and locals can relax, kick-back, and enjoy.

Shake, Rattle and Roll

Kicking back was not foremost on my mind – it was time to shake off my winter cabin fever and get movin’! I’d been told that the De Palm UTV experience was fun and one I wouldn’t forget. Well, they were right on one count. I think I’ll remember it for as long as I live. Fun – that’s subjective, isn’t it? One person’s fun is another’s… er…nightmare? To be fair, it appeared that everyone on this UTV off-road adventure was having a blast. Me? Not so much. Each vehicle carried two of us and we drove in a bumpy caravan formation led by a professional tour guide who showed us the best landmarks of Aruba. All I was aware of was crashing through roads with crater-like holes, skirting mammoth boulders, bumping, grinding, and eating dirt that the vehicle in front of me was kicking up. It was, yeah, unforgettable. UTV tours just happen to be all the rage on the island – à chacun son goût . There are loads of water sports: windsurfing, paddle boarding, kite boarding. More to my taste was snorkeling and kayaking – and lying in a hammock.

It’s Cuckoo

Kukoo bus That may be the sound of an island bird but for now, let’s consider one of the silliest, good time tours you can have: The Kukoo Kunuku picked me up at the airport and later took me on an island tour. What the heck is it? Simply a wacky, wonderful, one-of-a-kind open air bus, Reggae blasting, the driver blowing his singing horn, and we loonies shaking our maracas and calling out to pedestrians as we ride by. The company says it’s “the perfect way for the old and the reckless and the young and the restless to tool around.” I’ll second that.

White Wedding Day

Aruba weddingAnother activity quite popular here: Getting hitched. Aruba has been named one of the world’s top wedding and honeymoon destinations by Brides Magazine. From the Divi Resort to the Renaissance Resort’s private island to the drop-dead new Ritz Carlton (the first 5-star on the island) – everyone’s goin’ to the chapel – and there’s not a more romantic place to do it.

Speaking of romance, there’s a hidden gem on this island known as Boardwalk. Run by charming Belgian-raised twins Stephanie and Kimberly Rooijakkers, and considered by many as the most romantic hotel in Aruba, this small, Caribbean-colored property is situated across from the famed Palm Beach. Boardwalk has been featured in The New York Times, USA Today and National Geographic Traveler. Its lush gardens, hammocks on terraces and champagne breakfasts delivered to your room make this a perfect oasis for couples, honeymooners or anyone wanting a peaceful, serene, truly intimate home base from which to explore the environs.

Aruba Food

On this island, it’s easy to do. No less than 90 nationalities influence Aruba’s cuisine, and the local offerings more than hold their own. At the many breakfasts, lunches and dinners I had on the beach, Keeshi Yena (chickpeas and Gouda cheese) and Funchi (fried polenta and more Gouda cheese) topped off with a perfect Ponche Crema (the best Caribbean drink, bar none) were my favorites.

Festivals

Festivals in Aruba take place all year long on the island. The Bon Bini Festival is a weekly folkloric music and dance affair, the perfect introduction to the warmth and hospitality of Aruba’s people. The action commences in downtown Oranjestad every Tuesday at 6:30 pm in the outdoor courtyard of Fort Zoutman, Aruba’s oldest building. When I attended the event, the flavor of the island, its history, people, music and cuisine came through loud and clear – and I paid just $5 to attend. Gearing up for Memorial Day weekend, the Soul Beach Music Festival is a multi-night concert with beach parties, concerts and comedy shows. In June, there’s the Film Festival that brings the international film community to Aruba. And perhaps the most prestigious musical event in the Caribbean, the Aruba Piano Festival, takes place in September and has built up a world-wide reputation because of the renowned artists that perform.

Bon Bini

Bon Bini means “welcome to my country.” It’s a Papiamento word, the official and most common language in Aruba and it was something I often heard on my visit. I never did learn the word for “Goodbye,” undoubtedly because I didn’t want to say it. I much preferred the local phrase Te Aworo – see you later – thus insuring my return.

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IF YOU GO:

Aruba 411: Aruba Tourist Authority www.aruba.com

Hotels

  • Divi Resorts www.diviresorts.com
  • Renaissance Resorts www.marriott.com
  • Ritz Carlton www.ritzcarlton.com/Aruba
  • Boardwalk www.boardwalkaruba.com

Restaurants Activities

  • West Deck, Papillion, Elements, Moomba Beach, Passions, De Palm UTV
  • Manchebo, White Modern, Flying Fishbone, Bucuti www.visitaruba.com www.restaurantsaruba.com
  • ABC Jeep www.abc-aruba.com
  • Kukoo Kunuku Bus www.kukookunuku.com

Pampering Made Perfect at “The Point”

by Barbara Barton Sloane

We are in the Adirondack wilderness, driving a winding road with snow covered pines forming a narrow passageway. Ahead of us, an intricate gate fashioned from logs and branches and spelling out “The Point.” After punching in a code, the gate opens very slowly as if to say “Take a deep breath. Relax. Let the wonders of this very special place envelop you.”

We’ve arrived at The Point Resort in Saranac Lake, New York – the last of the Great Camps of the Adirondacks considered by many to be the premiere resort in the country and Condé Nast Traveler’s highest-rated property. From the end of the Civil War to the beginning of the great depression, Gilded-age magnets built magnificent mansions made of logs and collectively called the Great Camps. The Point was built as a private retreat for the William Avery Rockefeller family between 1930-33 by the prominent Adirondack camp architect William Distin. It is situated on a 75-acree peninsula jutting into Upper Saranac Lake and today consists of a main lodge and 11 distinctive and delightfully decorated rooms for a handful of very lucky guests. The rooms have Adirondack twig furniture, huge stone fireplaces, down beds and each strikes a balance between being grand yet intimate. Here you have the romantic notion of “roughing it” in comfort, elegance and gentility.


2. Branch Bed at The Point

Entering the grand log mansion, we were greeted b the General Manager who ushered us into the Great Hall and offered a glass of Champagne. Everything about the Great Hall was great. It evoked the Adirondack camps of old with rough luxe, animal trophies lining the walls, massive native-cut stone fireplaces, vast sink-in sofas and a view of the frozen silver lake beyond. After a brief walk-about to acquaint us with the property, we were shown to our room.


3. A room at The Point

All is Calm, the Fire is Bright
The room had been prepared for our arrival – a carafe of wine, a roaring fire in the fieldstone fireplace that reached up to the timbered ceiling, lamps softly glowing, candles flickering. We were delighted by a cloud-soft bed made entirely from branches, its tree-trunk post giving the feel of a bed growing out of the floor. It was amusing, fun, and Goldilocks, herself, would have pronounced it “just right!” Icicles four feet-long formed a grid over our leaded glass windows like to many pieces of Swarovski crystal and the snow on our roof was deep and sumptuous as vanilla icing on a wedding cake. The warm comfort of our room beckoned us to linger but the experience of dining en famille with fellow guests was too appealing to pass up.

Rustic Opulence
The Great Hall is where meals are served, and we dined by candlelight, the table laid with fine china, crystal and silver. We had individual menus at each place setting. When I turned my menu over, I saw that all of the guests’ names were listed – first names only. Discretion and privacy at The Point is, well, the point. The extraordinary meal was enriched by lively conversation and generous amounts of fine wine, making for a true house-party atmosphere. The next day dawned sunny and bight, perfect for snowshoeing. A guide led us over the frozen lake and into the woods, up hills, down dales, dazzled all the while by a silent, white, winter wonderland.


4. The Point Boathouse

Dinner at Eight
Each evening cocktails were served at seven, dinner at eight, and every Saturday, dinner is mandated black-tie, a bow to yesteryear’s Great Camp formality. After dinner, a happy surprise awaited us: a snow picnic by a bonfire in the woods. Earlier in the day, we’d mentioned an interest in seeing the bonfire before departing. Unbeknownst to us, this was arranged. We were led down a snowy path twinkling with tiny white lights to an all-out roaring bonfire. Around it, Adirondack chairs were piled high with warm woolen blankets and cushy pillows. Icing on the cake: a fully-stocked bar, long branches to spear marshmallows and the fixings for S’Mores. Who could ask for anything more?

Your Wish is Their Command
This phrase defines the level of service offered by the staff. Want breakfast in bed, lunch at a fairytale cottage in the woods, or a sumptuous dinner served by the fireplace in your room? Done. In fact, service is so amazing, it almost seems as though one has but to wish for it and –presto! As if by magic, it happens.

Visit The Point in summer and you’ll water ski, swim, and boat in one of The Point’s venerable mahogany cruisers. But oh, in winter – that’s when The Point is at its most seductive. All of the huge stone fireplaces in the 11 guest rooms in this Relais & Chateau property are blazing, and you can peek out from under your down comforter to see what has been brought, to your specific order, for your breakfast in bed. You can snowshoe, cross-country ski, skate on the lake, cover up in blankets and sip a hot toddy around a campfire barbeque, curl up with a book by your bedroom fireplace…activities limited only by one’s imagination. Christmas here recalls a golden, days-of-yore affair and there’s a festive, blow-out New Year’s Eve – with fireworks! At The Point there’s nothing that one has to do but oh so much that one can do.


5. Christmas Tree in the Great Hall, The Point

As we prepare to depart, the ever-attentive staff has prepared box lunches for our journey. Nothing left to chance, nothing forgotten. No, wait…there is one thing they’ve overlooked: tissues to dab our eyes as we bid The Point adieu.

Planning to go?

www.thepointresort.com
800.255.3530
518-891-5674

A Texas State of Mind

Exploring a Capital City and Remembering the Alamo

by Barbara Barton Sloane

“Alright, alright, alright,” as one famous and easy-on-the-eyes Texan drawled in the classic film Dazed and Confused. In fact, those were the first words the actor Matthew McConaughey said on screen. Visiting Austin, that phrase resounded often as I visited some of its iconic marvels. I am finally in the city I’ve longed to visit. Bring it on!

Austin is a creative, constantly evolving city. Everything you’ve heard about it is true. With vibrant entertainment and culture, inspiring cuisine and stunning outdoor settings, Austin lets you create a soundtrack all your own. After all, with more than 250 music venues, it is the Live Music Capital of the World. Another reason to like Austin: this town is sunny – very sunny – like 300 days of sun and blue skies smiling at you a year-sunny. (I smiled a lot while in Austin).

Gettin’ Stronger (and Larger) Every Day

Austin takes the top spot on Forbes’ annual list of America’s fastest growing cities for the 4 th year in a row. “We’ve had 307 companies move here in the last 9 years,” says Dave Porter, Senior Vice President for Economic Development. And, not to be overlooked, the University of Texas churns out engineers and computer scientists into this five-county area at a record pace. Austin now boasts some 4,000 technology companies. Clearly, it’s hard for other cities to compete.

My first evening in Austin – play me some music! And the word on the street seemed to be The Elephant Room, one of the famous music venues in town. If cool jazz is your melody of choice, his is the place – and it happens every night of the week. By the time I arrived the joint was jumpin’, the ambiance slammin’, and the setting was intimate, not to say slightly claustrophobic. A group called The Monster Band was doing its thing – loudly – horns blasting with five hundred pounds of furious, fully-blown big band horsepower making for a total wall of sound.

An Extraordinary Edifice

That would be the state capitol, a magnificent example of 19 th century architecture and widely recognized as one of the nation’s most distinct state capitols. Placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1970, it was later designated a National Historic Landmark for its significant contribution to American history. The day I visited it was very warm but as the capitol is sited on one of Austin’s highest points, I enjoyed a refreshing breeze from a veranda as I gazed over sweeping views of the Colorado River. This regal, sunset-red granite edifice is the largest of all state capitols and second only in total size to the National Capitol in Washington. See… everything really is bigger in Texas!

Waiting in line to enter Franklin Barbecue? Of course, though even the wait lines in Texas are – you guessed it – bigger! Aaron and wife Stacy opened Franklin Barbecue in late 2009 in an East Austin parking lot. Word quickly got around that the Franklins were selling the best barbecue in town and soon the line of admirers snaked around the block – every single day. In less than two years, The Washington Post, Texas Monthly, and the Cooking Channel were among a growing chorus hailing Franklin among America’s BBQ elite. Before going there, I was told of one recent visitor to this local smokey meat mecca that jumped the line. He visited Franklin Barbecue and had the temerity to go to the front of the long line of customers waiting patiently to get in. Yes, that would be President Obama. Ending his speech at the LBJ Presidential Library, he said: “I love Austin, I love barbecue, and I will get some, right after this.” Then, arriving at Franklin he said “I know this is a long line. I feel real bad, but—I’m gonna cut.” And so he did, but not before paying for the orders of two people that he cut in front of. Awwwww….

There’s a new restaurant in Austin that’s garnering lots of attention: LaV, pronounced La Vie. An appropriate name as this recently-opened dining establishment is nothing if not full of life. When I walked in the door, I was awed by the lush French atmosphere and amazed by the animated and bubbly scene before me. I quickly understood why it’s named LaV! Chef Allison Jenkins focuses on simple yet stylish Provencal cuisine and my salad with roasted shallot and walnut vinaigrette, followed by potato and celeric soup and finally grilled durade with fennel confit was pure Provencal – pure perfection.

Seeing LBJ in a Whole New Way

Another president that would have had no problem cutting the BBQ line was LBJ himself, right? Visiting the LBJ Presidential Library was a rewarding experience. First off, the library is simply splendid, describing President Johnson’s legacy from the perspective of outstanding exhibits featuring his life and times throughout the turbulent 60s, Vietnam and Civil Rights. I found the November 22, 1963 section affecting and the replica of his Oval Office, duplicated in 7/ 8 scale, was imposing.

It was a hoot to pick up one of the exhibit phones and hear LBJ’s conversations with various personages. When he laid into the late Adam Clayton Powell about something he was supposed to do but didn’t, surprise, the pompous, arrogant politician was left speechless. The conversation ended with Powell backing down and eating crow. Another conversation was with the late Katherine Graham, owner of the Washington Post. Known to be a notorious but innocent flirt, the President began the conversation with honeyed endearments, saying how much he misses her and if only he weren’t married…hilarious and somehow very sweet. Viewing his archives of historical papers, photos, film and recordings, I left feeling informed and enlightened and with great admiration for his accomplishments yet ultimately saddened for the man who felt a profound sense of defeat owing to the absurdity and futility of Vietnam.

There’s no doubt about it, Austin is one hip city. The slogan “Keep Austin Weird” initially came about by the Austin Independent Business Alliance to promote small businesses in Austin. Today it is the proud motto of the city, reaching far beyond a marketing campaign. The notion that weirdness is the central gist of life here is at the heart of this mantra. Liberal and progressive politically, socially, in the arts and in music, Austin, a city that revels in its eccentricity, intends to keep itself weird – and wonderful. To that end, there’s a Keep Austin Weird Festival held each summer. And coming up in October, the annual Austin City Limits Music Festival, this year October 3-5 and October 10-12 with an outstanding lineup: Eminem, Pearl Jam, Outkast, Jimmy Cliff and many more.

In Austin, pride of place and pride in its people is an aura I keenly felt. It gave off a warm and happy – ok, weird – vibe that I quite liked. And to quote yet another president, George W. Bush: “Some folks look at me and see a certain swagger, which in Texas is called ‘walking’.” To that, I can only say Alright!

Deep in the Heart

An easy hop, skip and jump from Austin, this natural beauty -­ San Antonio – is just 75 miles and less than 90 minutes away; it’s known as one of the top tourist destinations in the U.S. Historic sites such as the Alamo abound and cultural highlights like the San Antonio River Walk flourish. A city of intriguing contrasts, this is a place where modern attractions are juxtaposed with celebrated monuments of Texas history. On my bucket list for eons, I was delighted that I was finally here. The city’s motto is “Deep. In the Heart.” and – after just a few days of gliding down the river, swooning over the exhibits at the Museum of Art, dining in this, the cradle of Tex-Mex, and getting to know some of its fine citizens – I got it. Yes, San Antonio is deeply captivating and yes, it stirs emotions that directly touch the heart.

 Immense in Extent

First stop: The Alamo, of course. The most famous historic site in Texas, The Alamo played a critical role in this state’s revolution. A former mission, it was occupied and defended by a band of Texans, (including Jim Bowie and the frontiersman Davy Crockett) against an overwhelming Mexican army led by General Santa Anna. In unparalleled bravery, they held out for thirteen days and refused to surrender. Each, ultimately, met his death. The Alamo represents the heroic struggle for independence from Mexico and remains hallowed ground in the pursuit of Texas liberty. In 1835, one of the brave souls who gave his life, Daniel Cloud, soberly proclaimed:”If we succeed, the country is ours. It is immense in extent and fertile in its soil and will amply reward all our toil. If we fail, death in the cause of liberty and humanity is not reason for shuddering…” Walking through the Alamo, the heart is touched.

Lucky me – to be here just when the San Antonio Museum of Art was presenting a major exhibit of the work of Henri Matisse – a once-in-a-lifetime chance to explore what is perhaps the world’s finest collection, drawn from the renowned Cone endowment at the Baltimore Museum of Art. The exhibit featured more than eighty paintings, sculptures and works on paper spanning six decades of the artist’s career. A few years ago, I had the chance to stand in this artist’s very studio in Vence, France where some of these works were painted, so this was, for me, a particularly meaningful encounter.

Sauntering down the river I came upon an ornate bridge that I traversed via antiquated stone steps that lead me to La Villita, an historic arts village and then on to the Arneson River Theater. The steps themselves were worth noting as they were inlaid with pretty Spanish tiles. Here is where Fiesta Noche del Rio, an interactive folkloric show of talented musicians, dancers and singers is presented. The audience sits on grass-covered steps in an outdoor setting; the theater put me in mind of the great amphitheater of Ephesus – on a considerably smaller scale, of course. For me, the star of the production was one Alejandro Antonio, Flamenco guitarist extraordinaire. His powerful and commanding strumming seemed to reach up to a sky studded with stars, moving me deeply and touching my heart – the San Antonio motto relevant once again.

Epicurean Enticements

One evening, remembering that this town is the birthplace of Tex-Mex, I made my way over to the Pearl Complex, an historic brewery on the banks of the river that’s been transformed into an urban village where one can eat, shop, live, work, and play. Oh and no small thing: it’s home to The Culinary Institute of America. I dined at Cured, a newish restaurant. While the architectural details of the restaurant were worthy of note, Chef Steven McHugh’s fare was flat-out fabulous. Then, on my last night in town, I decided to stay close by and had dinner at my Hotel Contessa’s restaurant, Las Ramblas. A wise choice. Charmingly sited on a terrace in a cozy corner of River Walk, it seemed like Chef Jordan Mackey was psychic as out came many of my food faves. Dinner: delectable; the River Walk parade of people: entertaining; my evening: a resounding success.

The One, The Only

Every great city has its noteworthy river. I mean, what would Paris be without the Seine or London without the Thames? However, there’s one city-defining body of water that takes the prize. Yes, that’s San Antonio and its famed River Walk. Dating from the 1940s, River Walk’s trail of cobblestone paths lined with sheltering trees, shops, gardens and restaurants meanders through the city and connects more than 2,000 acres of parkland. In fact, it is a living example of what a reclaimed city river can be. Teddy Roosevelt camped on its banks as he recruited his Rough Riders and the battle of the Alamo happened here. Julian Castro, past mayor of the city, has called the San Antonio River “the lifeblood of this community.” No argument there. San Antonio’s charms go deep, to the heart – and that’s just where my brilliant memories will stay.

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IF YOU GO:

SAN ANTONIO: www.visitsanantonio.com

To Do:
San Antonio Museum of Art: www.samuseum.org
The Alamo: www.thealamo.org
Fiesta Noche del Rio: www.fiestanochsa.com

To Eat:
Cured: www.curedatpearl.com
Las Ramblas: www.thehotelcontessa.com/las_ramblas

To Stay:
Hotel Contessa: www.thehotelcontessa.com

AUSTIN www.austintexas.org

To Do:
Elephant Room: www.elephantroom.com
Austin Overtures Tour: www.aotoursaustin.com
Austin State Capitol: www.tspb.state.tx.us
LBJ Library: www.lbjlibrary.org

To Eat:
Max’s Wine Dive: www.maxswinedive.com/austin
LaV Restaurant: www.lavaustin.com

To Stay:
Courtyard & Residence Inn: www.marriott.com/ausrd

 

 

 

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